6 Vintage Jacket Trends That Are Having a Full Revival Right Now
"There is nothing new under the sun." As far as adages go, no other rings as true when talking about spring's biggest trends. Without fail, we always see a few fashion designers try to revive silhouettes once considered dead in their collections, but this season's runway shows seemed intent on bringing specific vintage jacket trends back to life. From Versace to Dior to Celine, there was no shortage of collections that aimed to turn back time and transform the archives through their approach to outerwear. This heady dose of nostalgia hasn't been confined to the runway, and we've seen a number of vintage-coded statement coats become highly coveted items among the fashion crowd over the last couple of months.
It's almost impossible to scroll at this point without stumbling upon discourse about the renaissance certain outerwear styles have undergone recently—e.g., think pieces about the return of an indie sleaze staple, the military jacket. Even beyond the more contentious silhouettes that are currently all over social media, it's clear that retro-inspired coats of all kinds have made a comeback. At least, that's the case we're making with our research. After spending hours sifting through runways and reels, we've identified the six vintage jacket trends that are having a full revival right now and are sharing outfit ideas and shopping recommendations as proof. By no means are these specific jackets a fresh trend, but by the end of the story, you might see them in a brand-new light.
1. Tang Jackets
Don't let TikTok fool you. Tang jackets aren't a coeval trend, and they've been around since the early seventeenth century. The origins of tangzhuang outerwear can be traced back to traditional riding gear worn during the Qing dynasty in China, distinguished by its oversize shape, mandarin collar, and frog-button closures. Over time, the cultural context surrounding this specific coat has largely been disregarded, as it's been appropriated without acknowledging the history. However, the recent uptick in tang jackets in collections has sparked online discourse about the importance of recognizing their place in the cultural canon and supporting Asian fashion designers. For many, tangzhuang jackets aren't just another spring coat trend. They're a chance to appreciate the rich culture China has shared with the world and even some of our closets.
2. Army Jackets
Another trend that draws inspiration from history? The return of the military/Napoleon jacket. Long before the sharply tailored silhouette became a divisive trends of the '00s, it was largely a garment worn by horseback militia in the late 18th century. The military jacket didn't truly conquer the closets of the masses until the rise of indie sleaze on the runway. During the aughts, creative directors such as Alexander McQueen and Hedi Slimane sent models down the runway with disheveled hair, smudged makeup, oversize tees, and low-rise skinnies—all styled with ornate Napoleonic jackets. Time has passed, but amid growing nostalgia and sociopolitical uncertainty, it's no surprise that we've seen military jackets resurface in recent collections (see Dior and Balmain) and even in the closets of fashion people. History is said to repeat itself, and nothing reflects that more than this vintage jacket trend.
3. '80s Bomber Jackets
You don't have to travel back too far to find noteworthy outerwear trends. Simply look to '80s-inspired bomber jackets as proof otherwise. Although the advent of this specific outerwear silhouette dates back even further (flight jackets were invented as technical garments for pilots during WWI), we didn't consider them a trend or even a wardrobe staple until both the film and fashion industries started championing them. From Saint Laurent to Gucci, we saw luxury houses first reimagine this menswear piece for women in the '80s, and more recently, they've been leaning into oversize shapes, adding exaggerated collars, using supple textiles, and even experimenting with different colors. The slight tweaks applied to this vintage silhouette have enabled it to soar to previously unfound heights of popularity, a phenomenon that has continued to this day.
4. Sleek Leather Dusters
It's not just the '80s that have had an outsized influence on spring outerwear trends, as evidenced by the return of the leather duster jacket, a style that defined '90s minimalism. Unlike other vintage jacket trends from that period, these jackets were far more sharply tailored, often featuring a polo collar, a floor-length hemline, and single-breasted buttons or none at all. The innate austerity of the silhouette ultimately made it one of the more adaptable jacket trends of that era. It could be seen in the closets of minimalists and grunge style icons alike, from real-life figures like Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy to fictional characters like Trinity from The Matrix. As a desire for simpler times reaches an all-time high, minimalist outerwear offers an escape from reality—or, at least, from having to try too hard to get dressed.
5. Funnel-Neck Jackets
Characterized by their signature cone-like necklines, funnel-neck jackets first entered the fashion lexicon in the early '50s when the late creative directors Cristóbal Balenciaga and Hubert de Givenchy introduced the style at their respective houses. Ever since, funnel-neck jackets have remained a steadfast part of the zeitgeist. It wasn't until last spring that we saw them truly become a focal point again, when the retro shape was reimagined by a new wave of creatives—including Phoebe Philo, Brandon Maxwell, and Maximilian Davis. Whether in the form of a funnel-neck leather bomber, a contemporary trench coat, or a reworked rain jacket, there are so many variations of this silhouette that it's single-handedly given a new generation a permission slip to embrace this trend on their own terms.
6. Pony-Hair Jackets
Last but certainly not least, one surprising trend that's made a comeback in the last couple of months is calf-hair and pony-hair jackets. Not to be confused with the traditional furs, they're comprised of a lighter textile, making them the ideal outerwear to transition one's wardrobe from winter to spring. The ability of this jacket to adapt from season to season is why it's remained a staple of sorts in the minds of fashion people since the '90s. It also doesn't that some of the hottest brands of the moment have recently joined the pony club, i.e., the pony-hair trend. From Tory Burch to Tom Ford, we've seen spring runway shows reimagine every type of jacket in luxe calf-hair finishes: bombers, trenches, blazers… The list goes on. The sheer number of examples of this outerwear everywhere is all the evidence one needs to realize that the best jacket trends aren't brand-new. They're those that have changed over time.
