Simone Bellotti's Jil Sander Debut Was a Sartorial Palate Cleanser

When a new designer takes over at the helm of a major fashion house (as is the case nearly everywhere this fashion month, with spring 2026 marking over 15 anticipated debuts), the expectation is that they'll overhaul the work of their predecessor and put forth a collection that's completely and totally their own. But the first few glimpses of Simone Bellotti's Jil Sander debut are already revealing a different story. The Italian designer, formerly of Bally, took a much more democratic approach, marrying his own sensibilities with those of the label to create one harmonious blend of the two.

In its first few social media posts unveiling the collection, the brand described it as "a tightly edited expression of contrasts," and it was, indeed, bursting with a sense of joy and optimism that's so often lacking in today's minimalist designs. While the looks were largely restrained, consisting of high-neck tailored jackets, knee-length skirts, and solid-colored knits, the color combinations were vivid and electric, offering a fresh vision that pierced through the loud maximalism we've seen elsewhere so far this season.

Here, discover everything to know about the Jil Sander spring 2026 show during Milan Fashion Week and designer Simone Bellotti's debut collection.

A Jil Sander Homecoming

The runway, which was staged at the historic Piazza Castello in Milan, returned to the brand headquarters for the first time since 2017. It's a decisive move for Bellotti's debut and one that undoubtedly signals his plans to return to core house codes and honor both his own Italian heritage and that of the label.

Color Combinations to Covet

Vivid primary colors and not-too-sweet pastels were layered and combined to have the most harmonious effect. Come spring, we'll all be wearing more color, and these are the specific color combinations we'll be looking to emulate: cherry red and ultramarine blue; purplish navy and the faintest butter yellow; avocado green and strawberry milk pink.

The Flats Everyone Will Buy

While at Bally, Simone Bellotti earned a loyal fanbase of fashion insiders who were specifically drawn to his footwear. It was really good, especially the elevated boat shoes that our editors sent many Slack messages about. Luckily for our closets (but not our credit cards), Bellotti's has brought that same energy to Jil Sander. This collection featured a tight edit of flat shoes like soft leather Wallabees, minimalistic derby shoes, and square-toe oxfords that I already know will be sellouts come spring.

Tailoring That Whispers (But Still Speaks Volumes)

Bellotti perfected his signature restrained yet architectural tailoring at Bally, and the designer has arrived at his new job with his résumé to show for it. This collection was defined by suiting silhouettes that were equally restrained but still highly interesting, like jackets with curved sleeves and dramatic hourglass waistlines or dresses with chest cutouts paired with matching bralettes. While many of his peers are leaning into loud maximalism, Bellotti understands the power in pieces that don't have to speak up to be heard.