From Elegant Sailor Uniforms to Molten Flapper Dresses, Ferragamo Is All About 1920s Speakeasy Style
Today, Maximilian Davis, Ferragamo's creative director, unveiled his highly anticipated F/W 26 collection during Milan Fashion Week. The show was held at Triennale di Milano, a well-known museum, in a gallery space transformed with a sleek black carpet, dramatically dimmed lighting, and a sweeping navy curtain. These details created a sophisticated, after-hours atmosphere, setting the perfect mood for the collection's narrative.
The F/W 26 collection marks a deeper dive into Davis's ongoing exploration of the 1920s, which he began in his S/S 26 line. This was a foundational decade for the Italian house. During this era, Salvatore Ferragamo was an established Hollywood shoemaker, but later on, he returned to Italy and founded his namesake label. This season, the central inspiration is the allure of the speakeasy, which the brand describes in a press release as "a locus of liberation; a space where conventions of class and identity are disrupted." The garments were informed by the characters who frequented these hidden spots.
The early looks presented an aesthetic of elegance and utilitarianism. This balance was masterfully executed through exceptional outerwear and intricate knitwear, all styled with attention to proportion and fine detail. Davis demonstrated masterful tailoring, using considered buttons, deliberate lacing, and sharp cuts to elevate the house's codes with new clarity and control.
As the show progressed, the narrative shifted, introducing what the brand terms "liberated dressing." The latter half saw the emergence of flowing, sensual pieces, including molten gold midi dresses and pleated long-line gowns. These statement pieces were anchored by sharp, high heels and paired with slick-back hairstyles, completing the look of a woman who is polished, powerful, and utterly in control of her own narrative. As for the color story, it was dominated by classic autumnal neutrals in navy, black, gray, and ivory, but strategically punctuated by colors such as royal purple, deep cherry red, icy blue, and tangerine. Ahead, everything to know about Ferragamo's F/W 26 show.
Nautical Touches
Migration and reinvention were two major themes of the 1920s, and Davis tapped into them, focusing on the clothing of sailors who would go to sea to build better lives for their families. "That's something that both Salvatore and my own family experienced—he left his home in Italy for America before returning home, and my family moved from Trinidad and Jamaica to Manchester," Davis explains in a press release. "They all crossed the water to discover new beginnings." He hinted at this idea through niche details such as deconstructed forms, displaced buttons, and undone fastenings, as well as sailor collars, lace-up necklines, and a navy-and-ivory color palette.
Liberated Dressing
Davis sought to portray the celebration of freedom beyond flapper fashion. At the end of the collection, we saw a wealth of elegant outfits, including foiled-velvet lamé and floral-jacquard slip dresses, pleated long-line gowns accented with sheer fabrics and smocking, and strapless midi dresses that sat low on the chest. Many garments were drenched in rich gold and bronze hues. "It's [the look] a translation of trying to imagine something from the past," Davis said. "In the original moment, it would have been vibrant—but now we are seeing it through the haze of history."
Functional Undertones
The collection showcased a blend of Italian modernity and functional practicality, particularly evident in the outerwear. Key pieces included workwear parkas crafted from textured nappa and cocooning, almost shield-like designs. These items emphasized warmth and utility through elements such as shearling-lined hoods, double-breasted closures, and funnel necklines with scarf details. Proportions were intentionally pushed, evident in broad shoulders and large double-front pockets on quilted and aviator-style leather jackets.
Power Pumps
Davis's footwear collection, integral to his vision of liberated elegance, included new pointed stilettos and slingbacks. These styles featured a deep V-cut vamp, inspired by a flat crafted by Salvatore Ferragamo in 1954. Some designs used colorful contrasts to create a modern, elegant dipped-toe look. The most distinctive style, however, was a sandal that reimagines Ferragamo's 1950s "shell sole" technique, where the sole wraps around the foot to create a curved line. The heel of this silhouette combined a traditional heel with a wedge. All these styles featured a sharp, elongated pointed toe, conveying a confident, feminine, and powerful energy.
The Updated Hug
The Ferragamo Hug bag, which debuted just three seasons ago in the brand's F/W 23 collection, quickly achieved It status. The original design, known and loved by celebrities like Kylie Jenner, Dakota Johnson, and Beyoncé, features a structured bowling-bag shape with smooth, rounded top handles and distinctive side straps that "hug" the bag, secured with hardware at the front. Since its initial release, the Hug has been reimagined in several variations, including a softer, unstructured silhouette with a single shoulder strap and a clutch style. For the fall, Ferragamo updated the beloved oversize clutch, introducing new colorways, including burgundy, red, and tan eel-skin leather.
