A New Day Dawns at Gucci: Welcome to the Demna Era

Last season may have been historic with its many designer debuts, but this Milan Fashion Week is giving us something equally as worthwhile to buzz about: Demna's runway debut at Gucci. After a career-defining run at Balenciaga and establishing his personal codes at Vetements before that, the designer has arrived at the helm of the Italian fashion house. Although the fall/winter 2026 collection isn't technically his first stamp on Gucci, it is his first runway show and therefore a major moment in the brand's new aesthetic direction.

Known for his polarizing perspectives and ultra-futuristic aesthetic, elements of the designer's signatures are appearing at Gucci now, too, but put through the lens of the Gucci woman. Now that we can finally experience the fullness of Demna's creative vision for the house, there's so much to analyze and unpack. Ahead, everything to know about Gucci's fall/winter 2026 show and what to expect from the new Demna era.

Welcome to the Demna Era

While Gucci will always be Gucci, the house continues to be remembered and cherished by the creative director at the helm. There's a clear distinction between, say, Tom Ford–era Gucci and Alessandro Michele–era Gucci, and with Demna's monumental arrival to the helm in 2025, a brand new dawn has begun at the Italian label. After a career-defining run at Balenciaga, the designer put out his debut Gucci collection for spring 2026, but the fall/winter season marks the designer's first official runway moment, and it's offered us even more view into the world he's creating. At first glance, it's one filled with nods to the '90s, loads of sex appeal, and a reverence for his predecessor Ford.

Everyone and Their Mother Walked the Runway

It's always exciting when a noteworthy celebrity walks the runway, but Gucci took its casting to a truly not-before-seen level of star power. Most notably was Kate Moss, who closed the show in a floor-length sequin gown with a iconic logo G-string. Before her came Emily Ratajkowski, Karlie Kloss, Elsa Hosk, Amelia Gray, and Gabbriette.

Tom Ford's Heritage

The collection had strong '90s overtones with looks that felt minimal but striking at the same time with an undeniable sex appeal throughout. It had many lifetime Gucci fans drawing immediate comparisons to the '90s and '00s when Tom Ford was famously at the helm. Logoed G-strings, super-slim suiting, and leather—all hallmarks of Ford's Gucci—were among the standout elements.

All Things Fitted

Get ready to throw out all your baggy clothes—at least, if Demna has any say. The designer took a hard stance on silhouettes: They need be as body-clinging as is logistically possible. These body-aware silhouettes are what Gucci refers to as the "ultimate seamless garments" with pieces cut as close as possible to the body. Through rigorous product development, they feature invisible heat-sealed edges and engineered curved hems, the brand shared in its collection notes.

The New (Old) Bags

It wouldn't be a Gucci collection if there weren't at least one iconic handbag pulled from the brand archives and reinvented. For fall 2026, that was none other than the Gucci Bamboo 1947 Bag. It was updated with a new, sleeker silhouette and a bamboo-shaped handle.