Power Jewels, Sensual Tailoring, and Knife Boots: Givenchy Is All About the Many Facets of the Modern Woman
On day five of Paris Fashion Week, Sarah Burton, creative director of Givenchy, unveiled her third collection for the house, emphasizing her intuitive portrayal of women's strengths. She achieved this by showcasing contrasts: soft versus structured, and feminine versus masculine elements. This balance was clear in the juxtaposition of tailored pieces—such as double-breasted suits (one worn by Timothée Chalamet at the 31st Annual Critics Choice Awards), belted trousers, and peplum blazers—with flowing garments like relaxed, drapey blouses and capes, voluminous lace dresses, and footwear decorated with bows. While the collection was based on a palette of muted blacks and grays, it was enlivened by pops of color and animal prints.
The atmosphere buzzed with excitement as the fashion crowd gathered to see the highly anticipated collection. Cementing its status as a seasonal highlight, celebrities and style icons filled the front row. Notable attendees included Rooney Mara, Elizabeth Olsen, Diane Kruger, and Alexa Chung.
Burton has consistently challenged the idea of a single "type" of woman, telling The Financial Times, "Often as a designer, the first question you get asked is 'Who’s your woman?' and that makes women sound like they're just one type of thing." Her view is to see women as a collective. Keep reading to discover more about Burton's F/W 26 collection for Givenchy.
Sensual Tailoring
In her first two seasons at Givenchy, Burton focused on rebuilding by establishing the foundation and structure. Now that she has found her footing, she has highlighted her technical skill, especially her craftsmanship of tailored suits and well-cut dresses. The collection was designed around the female form, emphasizing structure while respecting the body's natural shape. Key tailored pieces included fitted, short, double-breasted peplum jackets paired with slim trousers, as well as menswear-inspired blazers with broad shoulders styled with belted, pleated pants. For dresses, A-line, thin-strap styles with high slits offered glimpses of skin, alongside long skirts that elegantly followed the curve of the hips.
T-Shirts With a Twist
Northern European Old Masters paintings inspired parts of the collection, particularly the dramatic head coverings designed by British milliner Stephen Jones. "These headwraps are the most natural hair coverings there are," Jones states in a press release. "Just a T-shirt. Just a twist. But it's the right T-shirt, with the right twist." Crafted with sculptural volume and modern materials, these pieces echoed the shape of a wimple, but instead of symbolizing restraint, they framed the face with architectural precision, creating a bold, unmistakably powerful statement.
The New Shark Lock Boot
In the early 2010s, Givenchy launched its Shark Lock Boots, also known as the Knife Boots. Characterized by its fold-over shaft, concealed wedge heel, and turn-lock hardware, this style became a must-have, popular among Kim Kardashian, Kylie Jenner, and Lindsay Lohan. Over the years, it was updated by Givenchy's prior creative directors, including Clare Waight Keller and Matthew M. Williams, with variations in height and materials. While reports have suggested that the brand has discontinued the boot, Burton appears to be bringing it back. In the F/W 26 collection, she unveiled the new Shark Lock Boot—a thigh-high style with silver or gold hardware across the front thigh area, featuring the same fold-over design and hidden heel.
Power Jewels
The portrayal of female power went beyond just tailored clothing to include jewelry. The pieces featured substantial collar necklaces and hanging earrings decorated with jewel-tone gems. Additional elements included heavy chains and studs made from materials like gold and wood. These accessories conveyed strength and protection while also enabling bold self-expression.
Leopard, Lace, and Lots of Color
The collection showcased an elegant blend of color and print set against classic blacks and grays. Bold splashes of sapphire blue highlighted velvet dresses, fuzzy shoes, long coats, and leather handbags. Lemon yellow was prominently featured in maxi and midi dresses, bow-adorned heels, and leather gloves. Cherry red added lively accents to head coverings, high-neck dresses, and draped blouses. While floral prints appeared, leopard print was a key motif, incorporated by Burton into strapless frocks, faux-fur coats, and square-neck bralette tops. Additionally, lace added richness and texture to the selection of eveningwear, from a white puff-sleeve minidress to a plunging-neckline black maxi dress.
