Tom Ford Creative Director Haider Ackermann debuted the fashion house’s F/W 26 collection in the most dramatic of ways. As the show opens in a stark-white room, overhead lights flicker, the music signals for you to be on edge, and models creep aimlessly throughout the space rather than in a single file. They looked around at each other obsessively in passing, dressed similarly to American Psycho’s protagonist, or should I say antagonist, Patrick Bateman in officewear such as crisp button-downs and trousers. For the collection, Ackermann intersected the exquisite tailoring with the seductiveness Tom Ford is known for, notably through suiting with strong shoulders and double-breasted closures.
A hint of the '90s was expressed on the runway, with simple basics, from a plain white T-shirt to a black turtleneck to low-rise pants with belts that sit through one loop, creating a negative-space effect. Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy's understated glamour came to mind when I saw the Dalmatian-print coat and croc-embossed pencil skirt styled with a sweater.
The soundtrack shifted from haunted to upbeat as models walked in PVC accessories styled to perfection in cheeky yet chic ways. Sensuality and luxury were the through line in this collection, and I predict the playful sexiness will be the aesthetic that people draw from the Tom Ford F/W 26 runway when fall hits. Ahead, take a deeper dive into Ackermann’s masterful collection.
Classic Tailoring
While there were just a few examples of suiting throughout this collection, the ones featured were excellent. The proportions were slim rather than the oversize, laid-back suits I’m used to seeing on runways. Clean lines, strong shoulders, and the perfect shoe-to-hemline ratio proved that classic tailoring will always reign supreme. Fashion’s era of nonchalance just might be no more.
Faded Denim
This inclusion of denim admittedly surprised me. This is a new development for Ackermann’s Tom Ford. The deep blue wash with fading at the knees and the shape of each pair varied slightly, from tapered to straight-leg to cigarette, high-waisted fits. I’m curious to see if the creative director will continue to play with denim.
PVC Accessories
Nods to American Psycho emerged throughout the collection, including Bateman's clear, slick raincoat. The man is meticulous with every detail, including what he wears to commit a crime. The collection featured not just a PVC coat but also a rain cap, pencil skirt, vest, and cropped jacket. This could have gone terribly wrong, but these pieces were executed so well. Who knew PVC could be so chic in 2026?
Croc-Embossed Leather
Croc-embossed boots were a major trend last year; now it's expanded further to clothing. The croc-embossed collared leather jackets and pencil skirts throughout the collection were proof. Textures within a minimal outfit will always do wonders, in my humble opinion. I can't believe I'm saying this, but this trend actually has me looking forward to cold weather again.
