During fashion month, there are many highly anticipated shows from luxury houses, whether you're waiting with bated breath to see what's next in Miuccia Prada's Miu Miu world or Matthieu Blazy's reimagining of Chanel. On the other end of the spectrum, there are the emerging designers, who bring a different energy to the fashion month calendar. Perhaps they're newly out of fashion school at Central Saint Martins, making their London Fashion Week debut, or already a name that's quickly become a fixture at New York Fashion Week over the past few seasons and is on the cusp of no longer being emerging. These are the shows I find myself getting equally as excited for.
For fall/winter 2026, I wrote about the emerging designers' collections that I loved across cities, and I'm back for a second edition for spring/summer 2027. Ahead, take a look at the designers, from Copenhagen to Paris, who stood out to me on the latest runways.
Fashion Month S/S 27 Emerging Designers
Copenhagen Fashion Week
Standouts: Almada Label, Caro Editions, OpéraSport, Paolina Russo, Nicklas Skovgaard
Before the traditional fashion month calendar started this September (New York, London, Milan, Paris), there was the preseason fifth city: Copenhagen Fashion Week, which happened in August. For spring/summer 2027, CPHFW celebrated its 20th anniversary and had some of my favorite shows of the season. Almada Label, known for its Scandinavian minimalism, made its runway debut; Caro Edition had colorful, playful designs inspired by Princess Diana; and I loved OpéraSport.
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New York Fashion Week
Standouts: Conner Ives, Emily Dawn Long, Jane Wade, Mel Usine, Pipenco, Tyler McGillivary, Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen
Some of the brands I love the most on the calendar showed at New York Fashion Week, such as Colleen Allen, Mel Usine, and Jane Wade. Emily Dawn Long even presented a short film called The Crack of Dawn for her NYFW debut. Conner Ives, who was previously at London Fashion Week, also had his first-ever NYFW runway. It turned out to be one of my favorite shows of the entire month—as fun and glamorous as ever.
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London Fashion Week
Standouts: Gui Rosa, Lucila Safdie, Masha Popova, Talia Byre
Having lived in London for a few years, I will forever have a special place in my heart for LFW. (It may even be my favorite one. I'm torn between that and Paris.) Unsurprisingly, all four of the collections I loved from emerging designers—Gui Rosa, Lucila Safdie, Masha Popova, and Talia Byre—graduated from Central Saint Martins, one of London's (very) famous fashion schools.
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Milan Fashion Week
Standouts: Avavav, Casa Preti, Lucille Thièvre, Palengke
With Prada and Gucci on its roster, Milan is one of the biggest weeks on the fashion month calendar. I always look forward to seeing what Sweden-based brand Avavav does, given its propensity for runways that feel more like performance art. At White Milano (a trade show held during Milan Fashion Week), three emerging designers caught my eye: Casa Preti, Lucille Thièvre, and Palengke.
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Paris Fashion Week
Standouts: Florentina Leitner, Hodakova, Julie Kegels, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, Matières Fécales
We end the month in Paris with heavy hitters like Saint Laurent, The Row, Balenciaga, Miu Miu, Valentino, and Chanel. Among the emerging designers, for me, Matières Fécales, however polarizing, was one of the labels that stole the show, as it tends to do with its over-the-top, statement-making runways that share something beyond the clothes themselves. I've been thinking about the collections of Florentina Leitner, Hodakova, Julie Kegels, and Marie Adam-Leenaerdt as well.
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