After 10 Years, I Finally Learned How to Get the Most Out of Retinol

Have you ever paused while shopping for your skincare to look up the benefits of adding particular skincare ingredients to your routine? If not, you're probably in the majority of shoppers hoping to get in and out of busy beauty retailers in one piece with a trusted product of choice. Even so, it's no surprise that retinol is one of the most popular ingredients you may have been spotting recently on the back of your moisturisers, creams, and serums due to its anti-aging qualities.

Since I've heard its praises sung time and again over the years without knowing why it's so heavily credited for its ability to address skin imperfections, I thought it was about time we dived into the nitty-gritty details. Instead of cosigning what the TikTok believers and naysayers have to say about retinol, I've tapped four dermatologists for tips, tricks, and their favourite products to maximise the effects of it.

What is retinol, and when should it be used?

If you're not sure if you should have already incorporated retinol in your skincare lineup, the short answer is a resounding yes from our experts. "Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is found in skincare products for its anti-aging and exfoliating effects," Teresa Song, MD, FAAD, of Marmur Medical tell us. "It increases the turnover of skin cells to decongest pores, stimulates collagen production, as well as improves pigmentation in the skin. It is a fan favourite for acne patients and anyone looking to improve the texture of the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles."

Song shares that a typical sign your skin may benefit from retinol is the appearance of fine lines, textured skin, and uneven pigmentation. Additionally, collagen decline typically begins around the mid-20s to early 30s, and retinol is known to stimulate collagen production. It should also be noted that retinoids also works directly on retinoic acid receptors in our cells, allowing users to reap the benefits of improved skin tone and texture while also addressing concerns like acne, fine lines, wrinkles, and scarring.

How to Start Using Retinol Products

Muneeb Shah, DO, recommends taking your time and paying attention to how your skin reacts. "You should always start slowly and gently. Generally, a pea-size amount is applied to the entire face evenly at nighttime. One should start one to two times per week, then every other night the following week and increase to nightly as tolerated," explains Shah. Begin your nighttime routine with a gentle foaming cleanser followed by your retinoid of choice and a heavy moisturiser to deliver and lock in the hydration.

Most individuals new to retinol become tolerant of it over time by using it less frequently or with the sandwich method (applying moisturiser followed by retinol and more moisturiser). If your skin tends to be on the more sensitive side, you still have options for getting a desired result. "Other vitamin A derivatives such as retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde, and tretinoin will deliver the same anti-aging results since they are all part of the same molecular pathway. The same can't be said for things like bakuchiol, which has not been as extensively tested as retinol," says Courtney Rubin MD, MBE, FAAD. Retinol has undergone more research to support is efficacy and has been used for a longer period of time.

Combating Irritation

Upon application, retinoid users may experience skin irritation resulting in dryness, peeling, scaling, redness, burning, or stinging sensations. According to Hadley King MD, FAAD, skin irritation may be caused by using too much retinol, not using moisturiser with it, not using sun protection, and using other potentially irritating ingredients like hydroxy acids. Users may think they can't tolerate retinol due to initially experiencing irritation, but symptoms can usually be expected to subside by the fourth week of use.

When your skin has returned to its healthiest state, be careful about what you expose your skin to, especially when it comes to treatments. Staying on top of your skin's health is crucial to achieving your desired results. "Retinoids should be avoided after a sunburn, chemical peel, laser resurfacing, micro-needling, etc., until the skin has healed," says King. "Because retinoids increase cell turnover and decrease the stickiness of skin cells, this can make the skin more fragile." For example, when eyebrows are waxed, you may notice major skin inflammation.

Finding Your Perfect Match

Now, here's the fun part—shopping for the retinol product that will make the biggest difference in the appearance of your skin! When revamping your skincare routine, Song recommends starting simple and paying particular attention to beneficial essential ingredients. "I generally recommend simplifying the routine first with what they have, then begin adding one new product at a time and slowly transitioning over by removing repeated ingredients," King says. If budgeting, consider spending less on the face wash and more on the retinoid and moisturiser.

Before making a full-size purchase, it may be helpful to obtain travel sizes or a sample of the retinol product you're most interested in trying or seek advice from a board-certified dermatologist to go over your routine. Below, discover our edit of the 9 retinol products dermatologists recommend for everyone, from beginners to experienced retinol users.

Dermatologist-Recommended Retinol Products