My Damaged Nails Have Never Looked Better Thanks to This Trending Treatment

If Gel-X nail extensions had a fan club, I'd be the president. Over the past few years, I've worked with my incredible nail artist Stephanie to create some of my favourite nail art looks to date, and Gel-X played a huge role in them turning out as polished as they did. However, I've recently realised there's a major downside to getting them so often. I know nail artists have said that these particular types of extensions are better for your nails, but after quite some time getting them, my nails aren't in the best shape. I recently decided to give them a rest and go down a different route.

Luckily, the salon I go to offers builder gel—a thick, strong nail polish that adds strength and longevity to the nails. I gave builder gel a go, and my nails are in much better shape. If you've been thinking about getting it and would like to know more about it and the process, keep on scrolling. I'm giving all the details ahead.

What Is Builder Gel, and How Is It Different to Other Gels?

To fully understand more about what builder gel is exactly, I asked celebrity nail artist Julie Kandalec to break it down for us. "Builder gel is a gel product that has a thicker viscosity that is able to be used to lengthen the nails as well as build strength at the apex period," she says. "I recommend builder gel for clients who like to have an enhancement that is a little more on the flexible side compared to acrylic, which is a great product, but it is harder. Builder gel is sort of like if you take a plastic dish and drop it on the floor, it'll bounce back, versus an acrylic dish, if you drop it, it'll crack. Builder gel is good for people who are heavy lifters (meaning their nails lift easily on the side) because it's more flexible."

Even I'll admit that there are so many different types of nail gels out there that it's hard to know the difference between them or which one is right for your particular nails. Kandalec went into a little more detail. "Builder gel frequently is a hard gel," she says. "Hard gel is a non-porous gel that has to be filed off. Builder gel can either be soft gel or semi-hard gel or hard gel. The difference between [builder gel like] Solar Gel and Aprés Nail (which is a brand of gel tips) is that that is a full-coverage tip that is already pre-made. It's made out of gel, but it's adhered with more gel as opposed to builder gel. Builder gel you can sculpt with, apply it over a tip, or you can just do a structured manicure with it to give the apex the shape and the strength."

What Is the Difference Between Builder Gel and BIAB?

Alongside different types of gel finishes, builder gel can also be referred to by different names. One such name is BIAB, "Over the years, 'BIAB' has become widely used across the industry as a generic term for brush-on builder gels, [however] BIAB stands for Builder in a Bottle. It’s a type of soak-off builder gel developed by The GelBottle Inc. that’s used for strengthening natural nails, creating overlays, or even sculpting extensions," revealed Ifra Siddique, scientific and compliance director at The GelBottle Inc., when I questioned her on it.

She continued, "Unlike traditional builder gels, BIAB is a self-levelling, soak-off formula that can be applied directly to the natural nail without a base coat, simplifying the application process while ensuring a smooth, long-lasting finish. BIAB has become the industry standard, offering superior strength, durability, and multi-functionality—acting as a base coat, overlay and sculpting gel all in one."

How Long Does Builder Gel Last?

"Builder gel usually lasts around 3-4 weeks, but is totally dependent on your lifestyle (for example, how often you use your hands or apply cuticle oil) and how quickly your nails grow genetically," says nail artist Ashleigh Bamber. "If you’re just starting your builder gel journey, it’s a good idea to book your first follow-up within 2-3 weeks. That way, your tech can check how your nails are reacting, catch any early lifting, and make sure the gel is wearing well on you."

How to Remove Builder Gel

"One of the best things about builder gel is that your nail tech won’t need to soak it off every time," explains Bamber. "Instead, we infill it (also called a rebalance) by filing down the old product and building the structure back up. This means your natural nails aren’t being exposed to harsh acetone every few weeks. Plus, your tech can assess the health of your nails during filing and spot any issues early, which is a much healthier long-term approach." Bamber advises against attempting builder gel removal at home or trying to pick it off. "You’ll do more damage to your nails than it’s worth; leave it to the professionals to keep your nails in healthy condition."

Is Builder Gel Good for Weak Nails?

According to Bamber, builder gel is amazing for adding strength to weak, soft or peeling nails. "It gives them that bit of extra-yet-flexible support so they can grow without splitting or breaking. However, it’s not ideal for very long natural nails," she adds. "If you want to keep length, especially if your nails are already long, you’re better off with something stronger like hard gel, which offers more structure and support, since it’s less flexible."

How Often Should I Give My Nails a Break From Builder Gel?

"There’s no one-size-fits-all rule for taking breaks from builder gel, and for most people, it’s not actually necessary," says Bamber. "Some techs don’t soak off builder gel at all. Instead, we remove about 85–90% at each appointment, leaving just a thin base layer. That lets us check the health of your natural nails underneath without exposing them to harsh acetone every few weeks."

"Also, nails don’t need to ‘breathe’, that’s a common myth," she adds. "They’re made of keratin and get everything they need from your bloodstream, not the air. So as long as your nails are healthy and you’re happy with how they feel, there’s no pressure to take a break."

My Experience With Builder Gel

Before:

During:

I know—my extensions look extremely grown out and crazy in the above photo. Needless to say, it was nice to finally get them taken off—my nails felt like they could breathe again. I'd never really gotten builder gel before this, only a lighter, less buildable form of gel, Gel-X extensions, and regular gel nail polish. What I didn't realize before getting builder gel is that it's actually pretty similar to hard gel—the only difference is that builder gel is a bit stronger than regular hard gel. Both can also add extra strength to the nails, which comes in handy if your nails are as damaged as mine after getting extensions for years.

Say it with me: Breaks are necessary. I decided to give builder gel a try since my nails were becoming extremely brittle and thin and starting to crack easily. That was my cue to give the extensions a rest. Sure, Gel-X extensions are considered one of the better options for preserving nail health, but as you can see in the above photo, mine were still pretty shot after getting them for an extended period of time.

The process of getting builder gel definitely went by quicker than getting extensions, since she just painted the gel onto my natural nails. She did several coats of the gel, which I liked since my natural nails tend to break a bit easier these days. Doing a few coats also adds more strength to the nails and created the perfect base for the pink French mani I decided to go with for the month of February.

Products Used:

After:

As you can see, my nails are now a lot shorter than when I had extensions, but they're also a lot healthier. I won't lie, it's also a lot more manageable now doing everyday activities. I loved the results that builder gel provided because it feels a lot lighter than Gel-X extensions and really did add extra strength to my weak nails. It also lasts a long time and doesn't chip. The photo below is what my nails looked like after two weeks. Still pretty good, right? There are no chips whatsoever. Sure, they're a tad grown out, but it still looks like a neat and polished manicure. In terms of price, I paid £62 for the builder gel and an additional £17 for French tip art. Everyone's prices will differ, but that should give you a decent baseline.

After Two Weeks:

If you're a nail enthusiast interested in trying builder gel yourself, or want to bring your own to the salon, keep scrolling for a few other great-quality gels and some at-home nail care items I've been using and loving.

More Great Builder Gels and At-Home Nailcare Products:

How We Tested

As someone who’s spent years trialling every nail treatment under the sun, I knew this was going to be a hands-on experiment—literally. Since my initial in-salon builder gel manicure, I've tested a number of builder gels myself, rotating between DIY manicures and appointments with my trusted nail tech. I paid close attention to how each formula applied (was it thick or runny? Easy to control?), how long it lasted without chipping or lifting, and how my nails looked and felt between fills. I also considered removal—because no one wants to spend an hour soaking off stubborn gel. Throughout the process, I took notes, snapped photos, and compared wear across everyday activities like typing and washing up.

This post was originally published on Who What Wear US and has since been updated.