From Bio Sculpture to BIAB, I've Broken Down the Most Popular Manicure Methods to Try

Have you ever walked into a nail salon and been overwhelmed by the numerous options available?

As a beauty editor, I thought I was pretty clued up on the latest nail trends, but on my last visit to the salon, I suddenly found myself stuck on what to go for. Did I want gel nails, BIAB nails, acrylics or nail art? I'm not sure about you, but figuring out the differences between each type of manicure feels like a minefield these days, and I thought it was time for someone to write a comprehensive guide detailing the benefits of each one.

So, like any good journalist, I reached out to a top nail expert to get the full lowdown on what to ask for and what to expect ahead of your next nail appointment. I spoke to Julia Diogo, one of my favourite manicurists on Instagram, and asked her to break down the most popular types of manicures out there. I also asked Erica De Los Santos, a nail artist specialising in gel, Gel-X, acrylic and hard gel nails, to get the details on all of these different techniques.

Below is everything I want you to know about each mani, from the results to how long they last and the benefits they can bring to your nails. You are welcome!

Types of Manicures, Explained

1. Nail Polish

Lasts for: 3–7 days

Pros: Easy to do at home, easy to remove, more affordable

Cons: Doesn't last very long

First up is regular nail polish. Good old-fashioned polish is still a great at-home option for those who don't want to go to the salon every few weeks. Not only that, but it's easy to switch up your nail colour whenever you want with nail polish remover. The trick to making an at-home job look salon-worthy is a high-quality polish that lasts well and delivers a shiny finish. Don't overlook the power of cuticle oil, either—it's my secret weapon for keeping my at-home mani looking fresh.

2. Gel Polish

Lasts for: 2–3 weeks

Pros: Lasts longer than normal polish, chip-resistant, dries instantly under UV light

Cons: Harder to remove than regular polish

Next is probably the most popular manicure technique of all time (after regular polish): the gel mani. "Gel manicures, also known as soak-off gels, are well-liked for their ease and flexibility," explains Diogo. "A gel manicure is applied similarly to regular polish, but each nail is cured and hardened under a UV or LED light."

This does mean that your manicure can take a little longer, but the UV or LED light transforms the liquid polish into a solid gel layer, so you don't have to wait for your nails to dry. Another great thing? Gel nails are more resistant to chipping, meaning they can last much longer than normal polish (sometimes up to three weeks!). Whilst they're harder to remove compared to regular nail polish, and therefore require in-salon removal, don't be tempted to try to do it yourself at home—you risk seriously damaging your nails if you don't know what you're doing.

3. Hard Gel

Lasts for: 3–4 weeks

Pros: Creates stronger nails, can last longer than soft gel

Cons: Requires filing off

A normal gel manicure typically uses soft gel, whereas a hard gel mani is slightly different. "Hard-gel manicures create stronger, longer nails," says Diogo. "Because it's thicker than soft gels, hard gel allows nail technicians to sculpt and extend nails."

Diogo tells me that these nails are also cured using a UV or LED light, but unlike soft gels, they require filing off for removal, which takes time to do correctly. Also, hard-gel polish usually comes in a pot, whereas soft-gel polish is bottled.

4. Acrylic Nails

Lasts for: 4 weeks or more (though you'll need an infill every 2–3 weeks depending on how fast your natural nails grow)

Pros: More resistant to breakage, allows for length and shape customisation

Cons: Can damage nails if not removed correctly, may not look as natural as polish or gel

If long nails are what you're after, then acrylic might be the method for you. "Acrylic nails are a type of nail enhancement created by combining a liquid monomer with a powder polymer," explains Santos. "When these two ingredients are mixed, they form a pliable bead that can be shaped onto the natural nail or a nail tip. Once applied, the mixture hardens as it cures in the air (no lamp required), creating a strong and durable extension."

In terms of removal, Santos tells me that acrylics should always be taken off safely to protect the natural nails. "The most common method is soaking in 100% pure acetone, which breaks down the acrylic until it can be gently removed. Sometimes, the nails are filed down first to speed up the process. Picking or peeling off acrylics is never recommended, as this can damage the natural nail underneath."

5. Dip-Powder Manicure

Lasts for: Up to 4 weeks

Pros: Long-lasting

Cons: Can feel thicker and heavier compared to regular gel

Although they aren't spoken about as much, dip-powder nails are an ideal option if you want a long-lasting manicure. "A liquid adhesive is applied to the nail, which is then dipped into a fine-milled, pigmented powder. The powder [can also be] brushed on," says Diogo. "Multiple layers of powder are applied, then sealed and hardened with an activator to create a durable, chip-resistant, and strong nail enhancement that can last up to four weeks."

6. Gel Extensions

Lasts for: Up to 4 weeks (though you'll need an infill every 2–3 weeks depending on how fast your natural nails grow)

Pros: Can add length or change the shape of your nails, lighter and more natural-looking than acrylics

Cons: Not as hard-wearing as acrylics, may take longer to apply

Another method to add length to the nails is with gel extensions. "These can either be sculpted with a builder gel and nail forms, or an extension like Gel-X can be stuck to the natural nail for added length," says Diogo.

Compared to regular gel manicures, Santos tells me that gel extensions go beyond just colour and shine; they actually build structure and can be shaped for longer nails. She adds that gel extensions can feel lighter, more flexible and look more natural than acrylic, although they might not prove quite as hard-wearing.

7. Shellac Manicure

Lasts for: 2–4 weeks

Pros: Can last up to 4 weeks, promises no damage to the natural nail, wide range of shades

Cons: Can be more expensive than a normal manicure

Shellac is essentially a branded type of gel manicure, but it's considered ideal for those who don't want to damage their natural nail plate (provided that your nail tech then removes the polish correctly). "Shellac is the name that CND (Creative Nail Design) chose back in 2008 during the five-year creation of this iconic product," explains Samantha Sweet, nail artist, CCO and co-founder of Sweet Squared, which has represented CND for over 35 years. "Shellac was the original gel polish and changed the nail industry."

Sweet tells me that the product is known for its long wear, the "butterfly effect" removal (the polish is formulated to lift away from the nail) and no nail-plate damage. The application and removal process is the same as outlined in the gel manicure section of this guide, but if you want added strength or length, you can have CND Plexigel applied before your colour.

Finally, it's worth noting that some salons may claim to use Shellac polishes, but as Sweet advises, if it doesn't say CND Shellac on the bottle, then it's not Shellac.

8. BIAB

Lasts for: 2–4 weeks

Pros: Strong, long-lasting, helps to grow your nails

Cons: Application can take a little longer than gel polish, product can feel thicker on the nail, requires filing for removal (although filing doesn't touch the natural nail), more expensive

"Also known as builder in a bottle, BIAB is a type of hard gel used to create a strong, long-lasting [manicure]," says Diogo. "The formula is thick and needs to be used correctly, but it's a great option if you're trying to grow your nails!"

I'm personally a huge fan of BIAB nails. It's a popular choice for people who are prone to nail biting or breakage, and having suffered a lot from nail breakage over the years, but since having BIAB manicures, my nails have never been longer.

9. Bio Sculpture

Lasts for: 3–4 weeks

Pros: Long-lasting, healthier for your nails, easy removal

Cons: Not as widely available in salons, can be more expensive

Similar to CND Shellac, Bio Sculpture is the name of a nailcare brand that has its own manicure system and products. "Bio Sculpture is a prescriptive gel system that doesn’t compromise nail health," Diogo explains. "It is a builder-gel product that also helps to strengthen the natural nail without causing damage. I have been using it for over seven years and have never had any issues with the health of my clients' nails."

This manicure involves assessing each client's nail health and tailoring the treatment. Overall, it focuses on taking care of the natural nail. It has definitely grown in popularity over the last few years, and the brand has just opened a salon in Selfridges. If a long-lasting finish is what you're after, Diogo says that Bio Sculpture and BIAB nails are your best options. "Both give that great long-lasting finish with high shine, but BIAB is just a little stronger on the nails."