The On-the-Rise Travel Destination the Fashion Crowd Is Skipping Bali and Thailand For

Welcome to Who What Wear Travels, a series of curated guides to destinations the fashion set loves. Consider this your download on everything from the chicest stays to the most memorable meals to the perfect travel wardrobe, all vetted by stylish locals and well-traveled fashion folks.

When I was boarding my flight from London to Colombo, Sri Lanka, in January, I was admiring the outfit of the woman behind me, and I realized she was actually my friend—a Jetset PR rep who was embarking on the same holiday as I was. This moment was confirmation that the south coast of Sri Lanka has become the winter sun hot spot. Over five friends were starting January with a kottu-filled escape, including a considerable number of my fellow British Vogue editors.

You can build a varied itinerary in Sri Lanka—following leopards in Yala National Park, taking a train that winds through the lush tea region, and climbing the rock fortress Sigiriya—as it is a popular multistop touring destination. Since 2024, Sri Lanka has seen a significant boom in tourism following a number of turbulent decades for the country. There was the crushing impact of the tsunami in 2004, the civil war that ended in 2009, and an economic collapse in 2022 that led many foreign offices to advise against travel to the region. A number of hotel openings and new infrastructure (in 2024, a 300-kilometer hiking route through tea plantations called the Pekoe Trail opened) are leading to a tourism boom in the region.

For those looking to traverse less distance and embrace a slower pace, I advise you snake along the south coast. It is dotted with surfing villages, jungle retreats, and colonial architecture, making it a new hub for wellness and sunshine seekers. The region is often likened to Bali before it became a victim of overtourism. "There's something about Sri Lanka's southern coast that gets under your skin," says Helen Bailey, global head of PR and brand communications at Mr & Mrs Smith. "[It's] a heady mix of salt, spice, and languid afternoons watching the surf roll in—golden beaches, swaying palms, and the easy, leisurely rhythm of island life."

The weather in the south coast is ideal between November and April, making it the perfect winter escape for sunseekers in the northern hemisphere. Days in Ahangama and Hiriketiya follow a similar pace with early mornings in the waves, egg hoppers and coconut sambol for breakfast, rickshaw rides through rice fields to hidden beach spots, and curry-fueled sunsets—a barefoot lifestyle that is also attractive to those who don't have any intention of getting on a surfboard. Like Puerto Escondido, Mexico, design-led boutique hotels have elevated these sleepy towns beyond surf shacks and hostels. However the area hasn't lost its magic with the construction. "This stretch is a sweet spot," explains Bailey. "[It's] less developed than the west coast but buzzing with just the right amount of energy. The surfing scene is world-class, the boutique hotels are effortlessly stylish, and there's a food revolution underway, blending traditional Sri Lankan flavors with a modern, global touch."

The whole of the south coast has the same spirit to it, so you can play with your itinerary depending on the level of adventure you are seeking. You'll see monkeys darting through the trees and turtles along the coastline, and for more wildlife, you can add on a trip to Yala to spot a leopard, Udawalawe for elephants, and Mirissa for whale watching. Other notable spots include surf town Ahangama, Koggala Lake, the Galle Fort, and Dickwella Beach.

There's much more to it than postcard-worthy palm tree views, explains travel journalist Sophie Hay. "Beyond the scenery, the community here is something special," she says. "A mix of expats and locals are thoughtfully developing the area, bringing exciting new businesses while keeping sustainability and local culture in mind. People often compare it to Bali 10 years ago, but I think there's more to it than that. Many of the new businesses—from hotels to surf schools—are making an effort to give back, whether through community surf classes, English lessons for local children, or mindful development that avoids overtourism."

Keep reading for stylish hotels, surf schools, the best beach bars, and more.

Where to Stay

In 2005, the Aman hotel group opened an opulent, charming hotel within the UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Galle Dutch Fort district. Rebuilt by the Dutch in the 17th century, it was a former military headquarters and then was later taken over by British soldiers and became a hotel in 1863. "Step into the old-world charm of Amangalla, tucked inside Galle Fort's historic walls," adds Bailey. "With its antique four-poster beds, whirring ceiling fans, and a colonial-era veranda, it's the kind of place that feels timeless. Stroll the 17th century ramparts at golden hour, stopping by boutiques and galleries before sinking into a rattan chair for an arrack sour in the library. Come evening, the candlelit dining room serves up Sri Lankan classics. Don't miss the crab curry."

"Wild Coast Tented Lodge was my favorite of the four hotels I stayed at across Sri Lanka," says travel journalist Gina Jackson. "This safari hotel is tucked within thick jungle and perched along the coastline right by Yala National Park. You'll bed down in cocooning glamping pods that are kitted out with luxe four-poster beds and copper rolltops and head out on sunrise or sunset game drives each day before winding down by the pool. Staying here is an incredibly unique experience and the most luxurious location to experience safari in Yala."

"For a change of pace, head to Ahangama, where surf, style, and creativity collide," says Bailey. "This once-sleepy fishing village is now a hot spot for digital nomads, designers, and surfers drawn to its laid-back energy. Here, you'll find espresso bars, jungle-fringed yoga studios, and buzzy beachfront cafés. Stay at Kurulu Bay, a tranquil jungle retreat perched on the shores of Koggala Lake offering a serene escape from the buzz of the coast while still being just minutes away from the action." At this 1960s modernism–style resort, tree houses are nestled into the lush vegetation, all framing the panoramic view of the lake, and some of the rooms even come with their own private plunge pools.

Where to Dine

Smoke and Bitters is poised above Dickwella Beach and is considered one of the best places to eat and drink on the island. Plus, it was recently named one of Asia's top 50 bars. Everyone who has been to the south coast will recommend you come here, and I found it more than lived up to the hype with its inventive recipes that are cooked over wood fires using Ceylon flavors. Don't leave without trying the Smoking Goat.

Hay says Ceylon Sliders is her favorite restaurant on the island thanks to its "simple but delicious dishes." As for what to order, she advises, "I still dream about their yellowfin tuna." It's all you would want from a surf spot—from sunrise breakfasts to spicy margs at sunset—where waves crash onto the terrace. You'll at least want to leave with one of the Sliders T-shirts.

My friend, a journalist and expert traveler, recommended I try this cooking class in Hiriketiya, and it was an evening I'll never forget. It's almost remarkable that Rosie, the host, isn't a TikTok celebrity already, as she teaches you how to make roti and curries while telling you hilarious stories about her rich life. In the kitchen, a group of amazing women cook up a feast of over 20 curries that you eat along with your own dishes after the lesson. Rosie has created an empowering, female-led space and would laugh that "no naughty beach boys were allowed" in her kitchen.

Where to Shop

"Located in Galle, this boutique is more than just a shop. It's a business dedicated to preserving and celebrating Sri Lanka's visual heritage," says Bailey. "Specializing in vintage travel posters, postcards, and retro-inspired artwork, the brand draws inspiration from the golden age of travel, blending nostalgia with bold, contemporary design. Founded by adventurers Meg Gage Williams and Philip James Baber, Stick No Bills reinvests a portion of its profits into local conservation and community projects, ensuring that its impact goes beyond aesthetics. Whether you're after a striking Ceylon tea plantation print or a classic surf poster, each piece tells a story of Sri Lanka's vibrant past and present.

Hay notes that she first visited Sri Lanka in 2019, drawn in by a handful of design-led but affordable hotels she had seen on Instagram, including The Kip in Ahangama. It has a peaceful design aesthetic with wafting white curtains, natural materials, and muted colors and a courtyard filled with laptop travelers who are working remote over oat milk lattes. The shop is also worth exploring, as it stocks ethically crafted Sri Lankan products, such as linens, candles, and sarongs with the hotel's signature aesthetic. I purchased the perfect pair of brown high-waisted shorts and coffee-and-tobacco soap that has the most intoxicating smell.

Hay also recommends Le Ketiya Boutique for hand-printed sarongs and dresses, and this is the second shop that I made purchases from on my trip. This slow-fashion concept store perfectly encapsulates the surfer, island aesthetic, and it stocks printed swimwear, relaxed cover-ups, and natural beauty products. I bought a soothing, healing balm that I still use as much at home as I did on my trip to treat surf-induced rashes.

What to Do

The south coast is considered a great place for surfers of all abilities, as the gentle, rolling waves in Weligama and Hiriketiya make it an ideal spot for beginners. For those who want to really give it a go, you'll find surf camps dotted along the coastline. I stayed at Kima Surf Camp, which has recently opened renovated rooms and offers two yoga and two surf classes a day, and it is a friendly base to meet other travelers.

"There's a unique magic to Sri Lanka's south coast that's hard to define," says Hay. "The beaches are some of the best I've ever visited—palm-lined horseshoe bays; long, sweeping stretches of sand perfect for walks; and hidden coves where local children take a dip after school." You can easily take rickshaws to visit a number of the isolated beaches. My favorites were Turtle Point Bathigama Dickwella, where you can hire snorkels and swim alongside gentle green turtles (just don't touch them), and Blue Beach Island, which is a tiny island accessible by a slither of sand. You can even camp overnight for a real unplugged beach experience.

One of my favorite things I did in Sri Lanka was a safari in Udawalawe, the national park known for its elephant population. I also got to visit an elephant orphanage, which does important conservation work in the country. I stayed at Kalu's Hideaway, a tranquil oasis only 10 minutes away from the national park, but you can also visit for the day from coastal towns. Seeing herds of elephants up close at sunrise is just magical.

What to Pack

There is a laid-back surfer vibe, so apart from the odd dressier night, you will spend most of your time in low-key beachwear. Think shorts, loose linen pieces, and layers of SPF. This is a vacation where you will live in your bikini. If you get into surfing while you're out there, there are plenty of boutiques that can help you unlock your Blue Crush vision board, with zinc sunscreen, rash vests, and printed T-shirts. For safari excursions, you'll want to focus on layers. You will get out into the national park early in the morning before sunrise, so bring a button-down shirt and light jumper that you can easily remove. Oh, don't forget the binoculars if you are lucky enough to spot a leopard.