Famed photographer Bill Cunningham once quipped that “fashion is the armour to survive the reality of everyday life”. How this actually transpires looks different from one person to the next. However, whilst performing a slew of records from her discography in celebration of them hitting one billion streams on Spotify during an exclusive concert in Barcelona, Olivia Rodrigo proved that whatever sartorial protection one equips themselves with will always spark discourse.
For the uninitiated, the “Drop Dead” singer chose a perfectly innocuous ensemble that’s in line with her all-American girl-grown-up stage persona—a hand-embellished puff-sleeved top from emerging fashion brand Génération78 that she wore as a babydoll dress and a pair of leather Dr Martens that laced up to her knees.
It’s a silhouette that the songstress has sported many times and personifies the cinematic and stylistic influences that inspire her sonic identity. (Including, but not limited to, Sofia Coppola’s The Virgin Suicides, Riot Grrrl bands like Bikini Kill and Princess-core tropes like chintzy tiaras and vintage saccharine minis from the likes of Todd Oldham and Blumarine.)
Immediately, her autonomy to wear this sweet, floral-adorned and jewel-encrusted thigh-grazer with matching bloomers was irrevocably revoked. Some dubbed it as “infantilising” whilst others were scandalised by the idea that an adult woman would choose to wear something she herself felt comfortable, confident and in line with her creative vision in front of her teenage fanbase. But there’s more to this babydoll dress than meets the eye, with the ethereal and coquettish silhouette a harbinger of rebellion, subversion and anti-establishment of the punk persuasion.
Indeed, this undermining of traditionally feminine tropes has been happening for decades, with the most pronounced disruptions from the likes of Courtney Love and Kat Bjelland. As with anything in fashion, once a trend begins to bubble up in a subculture—in this case, the ‘90s Pacific Northwest grunge and Californian rock scenes—it’s soon thrust into the mainstream. Soon, Marc Jacobs was designing a slew of babydoll dresses during his time at Perry Ellis that not only encouraged these aesthetic sensibilities, but literally outfitted those who wanted in on the trend.
Naturally, in the decades that followed, the style that once began as a cost-saving measure during the ‘40s—the style’s creator, Sylvia Pedlar, was encouraged to trim metres of her nightgowns during wartime fabric rations—became ubiquitous and a part of the cultural landscape in its own right.
In the past spring/summer 2026 season alone, many prolific designers who explore themes of girlhood, from Miuccia Prada to Chemena Kamali at Chloé, all presented varying interpretations of the shape. Elsewhere, many contemporary brands rooted in a dreamlike nostalgia and romanticism, including Dôen, Faithfull and If Only If, have made babydoll dresses a signature part of their brand identities. So, if wearing one is supposed to be this depraved act, why are they just so darling?
If anything, the overarching lesson to be gleaned from this palaver is that, subconsciously or not, this summer is set to be the season of the babydoll dress. Whether worn in overt retaliation to the criticism or proud defence of an innocuous shape, this style demands to be seen. And with Rodrigo’s new album, You Seem Pretty Sad for a Girl So in Love, on its way, it feels like the perfect backdrop to this phase of wearing whatever you want, how you want, lace-embellishments and all.
Shop the Babydoll Summer Dress Trend:
From the baby blue ribbon to the lace embellishments, this dress is so charming.
This silhouette is simplicity personified. Just add accessories to adjust it to your suiting.
The tiered effect on this style adds a lot of depth to the silhouette.
This style doubles as a literal nightgown.
From scintillating coastlines to charming city breaks, this style suits any summer occasion.
With subtle tiering and decadent embellishments, you'll want to wear this angelic gown all day long.
The beauty of this hemline is its ability to be layered for different seasons.
This coastal shade is complemented by the coastal hue.
With idealistic stripes and beaded details, this smock-style is something you can fling on for balmy activities.
A buttery shade for the sun-kissed season ahead.
Pair with suede accessories and oversized sunglasses.