Why Buying Old Margiela Clothes Is the Coolest Thing to Do Right Now

We trust Cher Coulter implicitly. She's the A-list stylist who, as our contributor, has guided us through the complex quagmire of jean-to-shoe ratios, which autumn trends are actually worth investigating and how to invest in pieces that you'll hand down from generation to generation—so if she tips us off on a seriously savvy way to shop, we're all ears. 

Her latest nugget of fashion gold? Shop for vintage Martin Margiela pieces. "Margiela is relevant now, with designers like Vetements and Céline taking charge of fashion—it's an intelligent fashion time again," she tells us. "Deconstructed button-down shirts, re-worked men's sweatshirts, and also garments with irregular hemlines would be smart to work into your wardrobe now."

And you know what? Upon looking once more at some archival Maison Martin Margiela catwalk collections, it's clear to see there are myriad suitable reference points for the here and now. Cher is 100 per cent on the money.

The illusive and avant-garde Belgian designer has not designed at his eponymous house for some time—it's now under the creative control of Mr. John Galliano and called Maison Margiela, dropping the "Martin"—but for a strong period of time in the late '80s and '90s, his highly influential aesthetic ruled the most creative corners of fashion. True fans remained faithful, knowing that as well as more outré runway pieces this house was always a go-to for incredible blazers and perfectly cut pants. The classic Margiela strands of DNA—quiet-but-off-kilter tailoring, inside-out and conceptual cuts and finishes, irreverent layering and boundary-pushing proportions—reflect much of the style language we're using right now to describe some of the most buzzed-about looks and labels around. Scroll down to see some archive looks we'd love to buy now…

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The Leather Jacket of Our Modern Dreams
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This ingenious belt-strapped creation is from the A/W 06 haute couture collection but looks so current.

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The Baggy Jean Trend Started Here
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From the super-size cross-over denim to that gigantic coat, this year-2000 look has bucketloads of nowness.

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Layering Looks to Steal Now
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Dresses over trousers? Dresses over dresses? All very Margiela '95, and all very 2016 too. 

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Oversize Bikers for Your Back Catalogue
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Crafted in 2000, this biker jacket—and the furry tail charm—would slip right into the current season.

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Alternative Basics to Fill Our Closets
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It's 1993 and here's Kate Moss in the kind of simple-but-different Margiela separates we're dreaming of finding in vintage stores today…

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Jumbo Tailoring With Fancy Earrings
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A/W 16's current mix of gigantic tailoring with evening-wear and evening accessories has already been nailed by Margiela—16 years ago.

So where to shop vintage Margiela? We'd recommend checking out eBay, Vestiaire Collective and 1stDibs.

For new-season inspiration check out our A/W 16 trend guide and get swotting up!

Hannah Almassi
Editor in Chief

Hannah Almassi is the Editor in Chief of Who What Wear UK. Hannah has been part of the the Who What Wear brand since 2015, when she was headhunted to launch the UK sister site and social channels, implement a localised content strategy and build out the editorial team. She joined following a seven-year tenure at Grazia magazine, where she led front-of-book news, fashion features and shopping specials as fashion news and features editor. With experience in both print and digital across fashion and beauty, Hannah has over 16 years in the field as a journalist, editor, content strategist and brand consultant. Hannah has interviewed industry heavyweights such as designers including Marc Jacobs and Jonathan Anderson through to arbiters of taste including Katie Grand and Anna Dello Russo. A skilled moderator and lecturer specialising in the shift to digital media and e-commerce, Hannah’s opinion and work has been sought by the likes of CNBC, BBC, The Sunday Times Style, The Times, The Telegraph and MatchesFashion.com, among many others. Hannah is often called upon for her take on trends, becoming known as a person with their finger of the pulse of what’s happening in the fashion space for stylish Brits. Hannah currently resides in Eastbourne with her photographer husband, incredibly busy son and highly Instagrammable cat.