And just like that, the spring/summer 2026 collections have landed. And what a season it has been! With an unprecedented amount of new creative leadership (this season has colloquially been referred to as “the big reshuffle”), it has been one of, if not the, most exciting periods in fashion in the decade I have worked in the industry. A season of grandeur, glamour and some surprises, from the trends that hit, to those that missed, new accessories, aesthetics and approaches to dressing, there’s no doubt that people will speak about S/S 26 for years to come.
Let’s begin with leadership, because we can’t talk about S/S 26 without reflecting on the mass change in design heads across the industry. With 16 new creative director titles at major designer houses (and even more at those that are smaller), there were a lot of eyes on this season. From Jonathan Anderson’s debut at Dior, Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta and, of course, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, it would be fair to say that new leaders will have felt an increased pressure to make a mark, and certainly an impact amongst the sea of new ready-to-wear collections.
“The wave of new creative leadership is creating real excitement rather than disruption. We’re already seeing strong, confident reactions from clients, especially to Chanel and Dior. Several of the debut (and sophomore) shows have seen us reach record pre-order levels with our VICs (Very Important Clients), which gives us a clear indication of how the wider public will respond once collections launch,” says Simon Longland, Harrods’ director of buying for Fashion.
Whilst many debuts made an impact, critics across the industry have widely marked Blazy’s at Chanel as the frontrunner. With a large collection of around 80 complete looks, the hope was that he would bridge the gap between classic Chanel and the desires of the modern woman, something that the house has struggled with since the death of previous creative director, Karl Lagerfeld, in 2019.
“Blazy’s debut for Chanel was outstanding. He managed to strike the perfect balance between respect for the house’s storied codes and a clear forward-looking vision. It set a powerful tone for the season and signalled a very exciting new chapter for Chanel,” comments Longland. But for Blazy and Chanel, this collection was always going to be about more than the clothes and the commercial potential; it was also about the wider cultural impact. Because as much as Chanel’s archive and history will forever have a mark on fashion’s past, there were questions as to where it would be in the future. Stylist, podcaster and fashion commentator Chani Ra speaks on Chanel’s wider cultural impact, saying that this collection “will be talked about for decades to come. It felt like something born in a perfect moment. He [Blazy] managed to bring his point of view firmly, while maintaining and respecting everything great about Chanel. Blazy reminded us that you can make something cooler without leaning on minimalism. I can safely say we ALL want to be the new Chanel woman.”
Outside of Chanel, Louise Trotter’s Bottega Veneta was a huge success. A series of tactile textures, joy-inducing shades and a few accessories that we already anticipate will have It bag status by spring, this new-new Bottega was a favourite for fashion’s cool girls, and has remarkable commercial potential. Anderson’s Dior was a highlight at Paris Fashion Week. A collection that was both wearable and whimsical, Anderson’s debut delivered dramatic silhouettes, bows, bar jackets and, unexpectedly, tricorne hats. Adding to this, there were further impactful first collections seen at Celine, Loewe, Balenciaga, Maison Margiela and Versace with Dario Vitale (who has already announced his departure after just one collection). Gucci gave us a preview of what life with Demna Gvasalia will look like with La Famiglia, a preview collection presented with a lookbook and a star-studded short film.
But outside of the debut collections, the season was all about drama. It brought vibrancy and confidence in full force. From Saint Laurent’s spectacle under the Eiffel Tower, which delivered conspicuous colours and ‘80s nostalgia, to Chloe’s striking vintage-inspired prints, Givenchy’s textures and Miu Miu’s pointed pinafores, there was a new sense of freedom.
“If there’s one unifying psychological thread across the S/S 26 runways, it’s a collective push toward expressive liberation, reclaiming boldness through searing colour or theatrical styling. Dressing with this much intensity becomes a form of aesthetic resilience, projecting vibrancy even when emotions are more complicated beneath the surface. Even when we don’t feel great, we can choose to look bold and vibrant, and that in itself becomes empowering,” says Carolyn Mair, author of The Psychology of Fashion.
This makes a stark change to the more minimalist aesthetics and runway trends we have seen dominate in the past years. Quiet luxury feels like it might be waning, or at least modifying, into a more demure, elegant sense of dress. “The pure 'quiet luxury era' is definitely softening. Brands that adopted the look purely as a trend may feel the shift more than those rooted in true craft. For S/S 26, the momentum is moving toward a mix: quieter, refined pieces balanced with bolder statements. The evolution isn’t about abandoning subtlety; it’s about adding contrast and variety back into wardrobes,” says Longland.
But the question is, how will this affect our style DNA in 2026, and what will we want to invest in? Barbara Janeczek, curation manager at global fashion shopping platform Lyst, says, “Overall, S/S 26’s mood is maximal detail, romantic volume and accessory-led impact,” and as such, “Shoppers will gravitate towards standout pieces to complement and elevate their existing wardrobe.”
Although the season may seem a little overwhelming (as Ra aptly summarises, the mood for spring/summer 2026 is “Information overload!” adding, “I still don’t think I’m all the way caught up!”). This sense of change and confidence is exciting and bodes well for an industry that has struggled in recent years. It’s a season for hope, experimentation and defining identities, and what is more thrilling than that?
Here, after much research and image fatigue, I’ve compiled 16 of the key trends to know and sought insights from my colleagues at Who What Wear UK, as well as other industry experts. Strap in!
16 Spring/Summer 2026 Trends to Know
1. Fringe Fancy
Like florals in spring, when a fringe trend emerges, it’s hardly groundbreaking. But what’s exciting is when we see iterations that veer into new territory. Whilst the spring runways offered more traditional iterations of fringe—Burberry with its festival-fused cerulean suede jacket, and tassel trims on a silky striped kaftan at Ferragamo, for example—we also noticed more fanciful fringing. Longland comments on this mix of modernity blended with old-world fringe details, “For S/S 26, we’re seeing both Art Deco–inspired fringes and a more bohemian, free-flowing interpretation. But we are seeing that designers are reclaiming it in a more directional, contemporary way—it’s decorative but also architectural.”
Frayed tweed hemlines at Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Chanel made a contrast to the formal and refined reputation we usually attribute to a classic tweed suit, and beaded fringe at Alaia, Loewe and Nanushka felt fresh, too. We simply cannot discuss fringing without making mention of Trotter's debut at Bottega Veneta.
"The runway moment that replays in my mind on constant repeat is the swish of that Bottega skirt. As a first introduction to Louise Trotter's interpretation of the brand, it was certainly impactful,” says Who What Wear UK’s shopping editor, Florrie Alexander. “Quickly, a clear consensus was formed by designers that this spring, movement and texture will come together in the form of fringe. The brilliance of this tactile revival is the variety of ways in which it has returned. Recycled fibre-glass shards were paired with sharp shirts at Bottega, whilst Chanel applied this playful trim to polished suiting. For Lanvin, the entire bodice of a dress was formed by weaving these tassels around and through, finishing with a dancing hemline of fringe at the end. If you adore a touch of drama, this is a trend you'll want to embrace."
2. Pirate Cosplay
There are many theories as to why pirate influences are currently coming to the fore. Mostly associated with the 17th and 18th centuries, alongside the pirate boots, bandanas and tricornes, this trend encompasses military influences and other relics from the sea. We’re all now surely aware of the impending comeback of the Napoleon jacket as part of the Indie Sleaze resurgence, which fits into this. But whilst some may be thinking of the Libertines and Kate Moss peak Topshop era, others are considering the romance and whimsy pirate cosplay brings.“An homage to the Golden Age of Piracy, luxury houses such as Christian Dior, Khaite, and Chloé showcased vintage lace, ruffles, tricorn hats, and layered clothing that skillfully play on the buccaneer aesthetic, all whilst maintaining a monochrome and pared-back colour palette. The result is a collection of romantically-inspired clothes that feel a little bit more ‘2026’ and much less like something straight out of ‘Pirates of the Caribbean,’ says Brittany Davy, Who What Wear UK’s editorial assistant.
Despite appearing on the runways only a couple of months ago, it’s already having an impact ahead of the collections becoming available, with slouchy boots demand +22%, ruffled blouses +8% and Ghillie (lace-up) shoes +77%, according to Lyst. “‘Piratecore’ is shaping up to be one of 2026's most resonant trends. From Dior’s romantic blouses and structural ‘pirate’ hats to McQueen’s tall slouch boots and lace-up necklines, we’re seeing a return to soft drama through movement-rich pieces,” comments Barbara Janeczek, Curation Manager at Lyst.
It’s surprisingly wearable too, says Davy. “As someone who lives in neutrals and usually refuses to inject bold colour into my wardrobe, I turn to other aspects to add interest to my outfits, and the Pirate revival that we saw on the spring/summer 2026 runway is by far the most compelling use of texture and detailing that I’ve seen so far.”
3. High Society
Whilst the general mood has cemented in one of drama, extravagance and not holding back, these designs sit alongside some more demure dressing codes, too. "The quiet luxury trend has dominated the last few years, but the honest truth is that I personally found it a little boring, even for a minimalist like myself. Luckily, the spring/summer 2026 runway has provided us with an aesthetic that’s just as elegant, but slightly more elevated than the expensive-looking basics that took over throughout our quiet luxury phase,” notes Who What Wear UK's editorial assistant, Brittany Davy. Whilst the connotations of quiet luxury being wealth whispering and old money have not dissipated, Davy notes that they have shifted. “Designers such as Chanel, Tory Burch and Baum und Pferdgarten swapped out more simple neutrals for baby blues, pops or red and sage greens that look just as modern as they do timeless (and also don't feel too out-there for a simple dresser like me). That, paired with classic prints such as checks and pinstripes, along with a mix of boxy and waisted silhouettes, creates a staple style with a twist that I just can’t get enough of.”
For some designers like Ralph Lauren, Chanel and Mugler, this preppy, ‘high society’ style of dressing came with tailoring—skirt suits at Sandy Liang, Mugler and Thom Browne and trouser two-pieces (as well as tweed, obviously) at Chanel. But for others, it was showcased more in the details. Ties at Ralph Lauren, pussy-bow collars at Valentino and brooches at Tory Burch. Overall, the message is clear: this is not a season so much built in grunge and defiance, as it is opulence and refinement.
4. Puff Skirts
In a season attempting to ‘bring the drama,’ perhaps nothing makes more of an impact than the exaggerated silhouettes seen on the waists and hips of models at Mithridate, Simone, Dior and Keburia and more this season. After seasons of sleek silhouettes and skirts of varying lengths, this time the runways signified not a change in length, colour or fabric, but in width and volume.
“Every season, there is a skirt trend that dominates. For spring/summer 2026, it was all about the knee-length silhouette, seen everywhere from Gucci to Toga, but this season, it’s something altogether more playful: puff skirts. Spun from frothy tulle, feather-light organza and luxurious taffeta, and delivered in ice-cream shades that honestly look good enough to eat, spring/summer’s biggest skirt trend is sculptural, joyful and surprisingly wearable,” says Poppy Nash, managing editor at Who What Wear UK.
Ranging in different lengths, from minis to midis, drop-waist and those that are high, these bubble hemlines and sumptuous fabrics that sit above birdcage petticoats feel fun and frankly, fabulous. But before the ‘ludicrously capacious’ references begin, questioning the wearability of said silhouettes, Nash notes that these playful and puffy pieces are surprisingly easy to style: “I’ll be pairing my pouf of choice (I’m thinking a pastel mini like those seen at Mithridate and Dior, or a sheer floral midi-style like those at Simone Rocha) with a simple jumper or a neutral blazer to balance proportions and, most importantly, make it work hard in my wardrobe throughout the season ahead.”
5. Real Hosewives
Domesticity and the topic of ‘tradwives' has been a prevalent conversation in pop culture and style for a little while, and this season it has filtered onto the runways, with a series of pinafore styles, aprons and babydoll dresses with ‘60s floral motifs. “The archetype of the wife has walked away from the aisle and straight onto the mood boards of the designer set. From mob wives, a Carmela Soprano type wearing leopard print coats and married to a less-than-salubrious mafia boss, to trad-wives à la Nara Smith in her over-the-top ball gowns while she confines herself to the kitchen to make food for her family “from scratch,” this ideal has never been more pressing,” Says Ava Gilchrist, Who What Wear UK's SEO writer.
Reminder: this is not the first time designers have toyed with aprons. The Row, Dior and Phoebe Philo have also put forward bib-like silhouettes in recent seasons, but never so overtly as Miu Miu did in its latest spring collection. Alas, we can always rely on Miuccia Prada to hold a mirror up to the contradictions we currently live in. Gilchrist explains that when we look deeper, this reflection is less about a trapped ‘60s housewife and more about working women.
“In 2025, the glitz and glamour of these married and well-heeled women has been shed back to something more authentic. The most apparent show of this was during Miu Miu’s spring/summer 2026 collection, where Miuccia Prada took inspiration from female factory workers as depicted in a 1984 photography book titled “Women Who Work”. Closer to home in London, Ashley Williams and Mithridate also toyed with these showcases of domesticity and labour by presenting modish pinafores and draped dresses that evoke the essence of a uniform. These are pieces that feel utilitarian and historically deeply undesirable, thanks to their connotations with industry and the workforce. But in this new setting, they redefine what it means to perform a role as a woman. I personally can’t think of anything more “real” than that.”
6. Sports Club
At a quick glance, one might think that this feels like nothing new. Fashion has long drawn inspiration from the sports field, especially those sports that feel rooted in the preppy culture of the upper class. From equestrian sports like horse riding and polo in the ‘80s and ‘90s, to athleisure some 5 years ago, as well as even ‘block core’ aesthetics that celebrate football culture and team kits just a few summers (and a World Cup) ago, team sports have constantly dipped in and out of favour over the decades. This time, it feels less gimmicky and more nuanced and, as such, more wearable. Like much of style right now, there are parallels to the mid-2000s and 2010s era. Think striped rugby shirts and polo shirts layered under V-neck jumpers. Where during this era it had more of a post-Brit-pop, mod vibe, this time it feels laid-back, relaxed and colourful.
“Preppy fashion may be back in rotation, but it's the quieter, lesser-known sub-genre of preppy sport which will be shaping the mood in 2026. Chalk it up to the Miu Miu effect from the spring runways last year. The collection glamourised rugby tops, fitted polos and languid V-necks. Since then, it feels there has been a divisive zeitgeist shift away from sports style with a streetwear undertone, and instead a move towards a more laissez-faire, preppy sport influence,” says Imani-Nia Francis-Tsolaki, Who What Wear UK’s junior fashion editor.
“One year on, the spring/summer 2026 runways prove that this wasn’t just a passing micro-trend. Reminiscent of slouchy jumpers that made the rounds in your PE kit at secondary school, Mithridate’s moss-green and navy striped polos were layered over your dad's favourite blue shirt, whilst Loewe sent bright red V-necks casually shrugged over butter-yellow button-downs. From here, the mood is clear: designers are championing a new uniform in 2026, one built on slouch, ease and a hint of undone nonchalance.”
7. Hand in Glove
Whilst we may expect gloves on the autumn/winter runways, you’d be forgiven for not expecting to see so many for those in spring. But what is the spring/summer 2026 season, if not surprising! From opera gloves (which, according to Lyst, have already seen a +11% surge in demand), to shorter styles in an array of fabrics, one could see the increase in interest in spring gloves as an attainable luxury accessory.
“Spring gloves are another early SS26 signal with strong commercial potential. Prada’s sleek leather gloves, sheer styles from Mugler and elongated silhouettes from The Row and Gucci have already prompted an uplift in searches as shoppers lean into small, expressive accessories that feel attainable,” according to Janeczek.
But how were gloves presented for this upcoming season? Who What Wear UK’s fashion editor, Sophie Watson, notes the variety of styles as being most intriguing. “We took note of full-length leather, mesh, lace, sequinned, silk-satin and even half-palm gloves in a number of runway looks, in ensembles built for daytime, driving and evening, showing just how versatile this accessory is for not only keeping your digits warm, protected from the elements and suitably styled for more dressier occasions. Black gloves were the front-runner style, but pastels, metallics, and punchy bright tones were not far behind. We have had so many accessories trends take the fashion world by storm in recent seasons, from statement hosiery, bag charms, silk scarves and OTT eyewear, so I can see gloves becoming the new It-item that people with good taste will adopt for SS26. Mark my words!”
8. Rococo Revival
It’s no secret that fashion trends often reflect culture, so the rococo revival should really come as no surprise to us. With the V&A museum in London exhibiting the Academy Award-winning costumes from the much-loved Sofia Coppola Marie Antoinette film, we could have predicted that this season designers would seek influence from historical styles from late 18th century France. What’s more, is that after years of pared-back quiet luxury, as well as the brashness of the Y2K movement, the runways are reflecting a thirst for refinement, grace and charm. Max Mara specifically called out Madame De Pompadour as a core influence on its collection. Although still in line with the brand’s classic and often neutral DNA, creative director Ian Griffiths created ethereal details with delicate floral prints painted onto layers of soft organza.
“Rococo’s flirtatious allure swept through the Spring/Summer 2026 runways, as designers scattered 17th-century silhouettes, motifs and colour palettes across their collections. At Erdem, the trend unfolded in sinuous corsetry, chin-grazing, frill-trimmed necklines and delicate lace. Elsewhere, labels such as Findikoglu and Yuhan Wang leaned into the era’s powdery pastels, weaving them through airy fabrics and languid draping. Hemlines ballooned and curved, while lace, florals and metallic sheens injected a sumptuous energy into the collection,” says Natalie Munro, Who What Wear UK’s news writer.
“Though fashion’s heavyweights—John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood among them—have long mined Rococo for inspiration, recent years’ devotion to ’90s minimalism temporarily pushed the trend’s exuberance out of frame. Now, as designers show renewed appetite for whimsy and ornamentation, Rococo is resurfacing with fresh relevance, answering our collective craving for a little more opulence, fantasy and everyday extravagance,” Munro adds.
9. Underwear as Outerwear
Underwear as outerwear, as the name suggests, details the overt presence of lingerie, crop tops and shorter-than-short shorts for next spring. There’s no question that this is one trend that when making a return always sparks conversation and divisiveness amongst fashion critics, with many this season commenting that it could be seen as a regression to the industry’s often sizeist reputation. Some others however, remarked that this could be seen as a celebration and liberation of women’s bodies.
As Ava Gilchrist, Who What Wear UK’s SEO writer remarks, “naked dressing has always been one of the more polarising segments of fashion. Designers again pushed against these tropes of exhibition and conservatism by presenting bralettes and briefs as effortlessly as they would a pair of trousers or a brilliant coat. It’s no longer shocking to bare all and reveal a glint of skin, but the underwear as outerwear trend is more than just putting yourself on display. It’s about redefining the convention of when and where you can wear specific pieces of clothing.” Its popularity specifically on the spring/summer 2026 runways made it impossible to ignore. Bralettes were the common denominator, where Prada and Jil Sander chose to expose these as a bottom layer below pinafores and low-scooped dresses, others such as Simone Rocha and Fendi styled them below a cardigan.
Versace, Patrick and Keburia went more embellished, and had them worn solo as more of a statement piece.“Fendi, an Italian maison renowned for its subversive knitwear, presented micro shorts rendered in a silky argyle weave. Simone Rocha toyed with the constructs of comfort and femininity with sumptuous ditsy floral print cardigans offset by sequin strapless bandeaus. Danish wunderkind Nicklas Skovgaard took it one step further by presenting looks that had models in various states of undress, as seen in the look featuring a chartreuse tulle trim pencil skirt set against a white t-shirt bra. Was this a conscious act of stripping garments back to their most rudimentary state, or something that further challenged the notion of pieces that must be hidden and ones that can be shown?,” questions Gilchrist.
It might feel strange, and most definitely a little ironic, to have a list that details the comeback of naked dressing and BDSM-inspired pieces alongside preppy classicism and high-society dressing that we associate with conservatism. But hey, what is fashion if not divisive, controversial and at times, hypocritical?
10. Send in the Clowns
Sometimes fashion feels expected, and sometimes it throws us a curveball. From jumbo polka dots and haute harlequin checks at Khaite and Dries van Noten, to thick stripes and ruffle necks from Valentino and Jacquemus, it seems for spring/summer 2026, we’re being taken to the joyous, theatrical splendor of the circus.
“In 2025, we’ve seen prints of all iterations hit the mainstream. From leopard print to micro polka dots, we’ve flirted with what we could consider the ‘new neutrals’ already, but perhaps nothing would have prepared us for the costume-esque styling for spring. With maximalist dotted fringed waistcoat to colourful checks, it's clear that 2026 is set to be filled with fearless textures and playful finishes, rejecting the beige normcore safety nets of seasons past,” says Imani-Nia Francis-Tsolaki, Who What Wear UK’s junior fashion editor.
But Mair suggests this reflects a deeper meaning. “Clown-coded references signal fun, performance and humour. However, historically, clowning has been about hiding the true emotional state behind exaggerated expressions. Designers may be tapping into the modern tension between polished outward personas and internal anxieties,” she explains. “This is also reflected in the harlequin pattern which is inherently about duality, psychologically speaking, our ability to hold conflicting emotions simultaneously e.g., joy with melancholy, confidence with uncertainty, boldness with vulnerability. Designers leaning into this motif may be responding to people wanting a wardrobe that mirrors the complexity of their internal lives.”
11. Primary Tones
Another trend making a strong case for colour and joy in the spring/summer 2026 collections, is the use of bold, primary tones. Usually we associate spring with pastels—delicate and soft tones that feel pretty, pale and at times, saccharine. But not this season! This idea of creative heads wanting to ‘make an impact’ occurs once again, with a more ‘back to basics’ approach to colour. Think letterbox red, Kelly green, cobalt blue and even canary yellow at big hitters like Loewe, Lanvin and Versace.
“I spotted a whole legion of what I am calling ‘pencil-box brights’ at Paris Fashion Week, and seemingly this trend waved its painterly hand over Milan and Copenhagen, too. This trend is all about being brave with colour, whether you wear it in head-to-toe, monochromatic fashion à la Akris, Alaïa or Lanvin, or in a mix and match manner, as seen at Celine, Skovgaard and Loewe. A masterclass in toying with scarlet red, Yves Klein blue, buttercup yellow and punchy green tones, this styling technique looks like it's been lifted from modern artist’s palettes and sketchbooks. To punctuate such a colourful ensemble, look to black leather accessories, such as bags, belts and shoes, as they don’t detract from the bright hues, but ground them.” says Watson.
As previously noted, the quiet luxury era feels like it may be coming to a quiet end. Although, of course, neutrals will always be classic, a period that celebrates boldness and self-expression is always welcomed with open arms. "SS26 proved that the biggest takeaway from this trend is that colour is for storytelling. If you compare Givenchy and Versace, Tom Ford and Loewe, the colour palettes may overlap but the looks are completely in their own lanes. It’s a perfect trend because you can partake without looking like everybody else. I wouldn’t even call it a trend, colour is a tool!," says Ra. Be it with sportier silhouettes and fabrications at Akris and Skovgaard (a category long-associated with a muted or monochromatic palette), or tailoring and leather at Versace and Loewe, largely this trend focuses on unfussy pieces, letting the colour do the work.
12. '80s Nostalgia
You don’t need to be a fashion critic to know styles from previous decades tend to come back around. This season it’s the ‘80s, but not as we have often seen it previously. This time it was more than shoulder pad-clad power suits that allude to enviable cinematic costumes like those seen in The Firm and Working Girl, it includes vibrant colour palettes, accessories and motifs.
“We’ve lived through the resurgence of ‘90s and '00s dressing (hello low-rise jeans, baguette bags and windbreakers), but for spring/summer 2026, the ‘80s return with a more relaxed focus as designers like Saint Laurent, Versace and Chloé revisit and revamp the decade’s maximalist silhouettes, colours and prints. On the runways, cropped floral tops with bright, slim trousers, structured printed blouses worn with jewel-toned knee-length skirts, and defined—but not exaggerated—shoulders highlighted a renewed interest in ‘80s proportion and statement pieces, all approached in a much more controlled (read: elegant) way. The result is a quieter version of ‘80s power dressing: confident, streamlined and aligned with the practicality and ease expected of a 2026 wardrobe. This is not the ‘80s your parents lived through (thank god): it’s polished, modern and makes a statement without being excessive or loud,” says Nash.
Pinterest has announced its trends for 2026, and defines '80s maximalism as one of their core fashion trends, with searches on its site for “80s luxury” up 225%, and “baggy suit” up 90%, it seems we will soon be switching our low-key pieces for more stand-out styles.
13. Touch-Me Textures
Whilst moments of opulence and frivolity have had some presence over the years on the runways, there has long been a period of restraint, or least a utilitarian approach to style with tailoring, neutral colour palettes and functional fabrics that have dominated for the last decade. So the hit of sumptuous textures, colour and dimension in spring/summer 2026—which perhaps arrived due to a pressure felt by new creative leaders to make an impact—certainly quenched a thirst we didn’t even know we had.
“Texture took centre stage, becoming one of the most compelling ways designers add depth, drama and proportion to otherwise pared-back silhouettes. At Balenciaga, texture appeared everywhere—from mint-green cocktail dresses trimmed with feathers to sculptural skirt silhouettes. Over at Bottega Veneta, Trotter pushed the theme further, presenting elegant outerwear embellished with feathers, bouclé dresses with a uniquely tactile finish, and even the house’s now-iconic fibreglass “fur” coats, which reimagined traditional texture through a modern, innovative lens. The result is a season where touch is as important as sight, and where clothes feel alive with movement, tactility and unexpected detail, notes Who What Wear UK senior shopping editor, Marina Avraam.
Feathers were also used at Blazy’s Chanel and Demna Gvasalia’s tease preview of what’s in store for his debut at Gucci—lining kaftan hemlines and layered in multiple hues across dramatic separates. Mugler used feathers in a more literal sense, showcasing a top with a high neck and wing-like arms, completely covered and carefully placed in flat formation, emulating the body of a bird. Looking at all this, I can’t help but consider what Gilchrist notes in her recent Who What Wear UK winter issue feature on the art of dressing up, where she questions why we’ve become afraid to wear our most frothy and downright fabulous pieces every day. In this, she notes a move towards injecting this opulence and texture to more wearable pieces in the spring collections. “Whatever happened to fun? To getting dressed up for the sake of it? To throwing caution to the wind? To capturing every second instead of waiting for the right occasion to wear what we treasure most?” Could we see the spring/summer 2025 collections as a direct response to this? I think so!
14. Sex Appeal
Between the pinafores at Miu Miu and the conservative cosplay displayed in the aforementioned ‘high society’ trend, one would think we’re in for a season of full coverage and a stiff upper lip. But think again! From leather, lace and sheer fabrics to corsetry and a sultry colour palette of black and red, sex is officially back on the menu.
“While trends shift with the times, one truth has always held steady: sex sells. The spring/summer 2026 runways indulged in this knowledge as designers looked to sensual silhouettes to form defining pillars of their collections. At Ferragamo and Hermès, skin-hugging leather sculpted the body, while Alexander McQueen and Mugler used corset-inspired forms to exaggerate the form. Elsewhere, sheer fabrics left little to the imagination. This season’s high-octane sensuality felt deliberately provocative—a clear nod to fashion’s long-running affair with allure, reaffirming a marketing truth the industry knows all too well,” suggests Munro.
Perhaps this display at McQueen, Mugler and Dilara Findakoglu is somewhat on-brand and to be expected, but it felt refreshing to see it also come through at Hermes and Maximilian Davis’ Ferragamo with leather bodices and vinyl two-pieces. Whilst John Paul Gaultier’s questionable (and controversial) spring collection had very literal nude motifs, other designers felt less smutty, more celebratory of form and freedom—and I’ll cheers to that.
15. Lovely Layers
One of the more accessible trends of the season, which could more be seen as a styling hack, is layering. By this, we don’t just mean base layers placed below a sweater, then a jacket, in a traditional sense, but using clashing colours or collars of different sizes to make a subtle statement. Think multiple shirts as seen at Loewe and Thom Browne, or a red roll-neck placed as the ‘pop of colour’ under dark and neutral knitwear.
“For 2025, “layers on layers” became one of fashion’s most expressive styling shifts, turning practical winter dressing into a purposeful, playful statement. On the runways, designers embraced piling pieces in unexpected ways: at Celine, cardigans were worn over bright red roll-necks; at Loewe, bold yellow knits were stacked over crisp red shirts; and at Miu Miu, layering became almost sculptural, with shirts over jumpers, outerwear on top, and even aprons added as a final flourish. The overall message is clear: this season, layering isn’t just about warmth, it’s about personality, contrast and creative styling,” says Avraam.
16. Chartreuse Green
Whilst primary tones were a major player across the Paris, Milan and Copenhagen runways, there were of course other tones that we noticed one show after another. Pink, as ever in spring, was popular, especially in London and New York with designers that like to explore themes of hyperfeminity within their collections and core DNA. Simone Rocha, Ashley Williams, Sandy Liang and Erdem all showcased pieces in baby, blush and bubblegum pinks, which frankly came as no surprise. Whilst pink may have felt expected, the limey, citric shade reminiscent of the liqueur Chartreuse, was not.
“Chartreuse is one of the most psychologically arresting colours, sitting between yellow and green. It signals alertness, acidity and vivaciousness. Green is traditionally tied to growth and renewal, but the yellow infusion turns it into something far sharper, more alive and attention-grabbing. The acidic undertone is optimistic and full of energy, signalling enthusiasm for making change happen,” explains Mair.
What we’ve already noted to be true is that this season is one for change, experimentation and to expect the unexpected. Be it with sold fabrics like satin and leather seen at Erdem and Simone Rocha, Ferragamo and Mugler, to more sheer shades at Saint Laurent, Valentino, Burberry and Issey Miyake, what’s interesting is that this zesty hue was used for mainly monochromatic looks, where designers chose to drench from head to toe, again adding big impact and drama. As Alexander, suggests, “few colours have as much impact on the fashion landscape as green. From Kelly to Bottega, this particular shade has a reinvention every few years, and when it does it suddenly takes over everything. For 2026, it's Chartreuse's turn to brighten up the everyday, from rejuvenating classic outerwear at Balenciaga to igniting eveningwear at Saint Laurent."
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