Jonathan Anderson Envisions a Spring 2027 Defined by Airy Romanticism
On day two of Paris Fashion Week, Creative Director Jonathan Anderson presented his seventh women's collection for Dior, focusing on imperfection, fluidity, and nature. These concepts were introduced before the show even began, with guests receiving invitations that hinted at what was to come.
Inside Dior-branded boxes sat two Wénwán walnuts. While guests likely didn't know at the time, these objects carried several meanings that connected to the house's new collection. In Chinese culture, Wénwán walnuts are traditionally collected and used for hand massages. As they're rolled and handled over time, they don't decay; instead, they become more beautiful, developing a shiny surface. They also grow in nature, so each one has its own imperfect structure. These ideas connect to the collection's focus on imperfection and the natural world.
Anderson's emphasis on nature was apparent from the second look, which featured earrings made from organza fabric cut into petal-like shapes. These floral forms were later translated into fully textured, collarless jackets and miniskirts. Some skirts, dresses, and shoes were also printed with photographs of flowers, creating a more direct connection to nature. Anderson further explored asymmetry, which he sees as an important part of the natural world because perfect symmetry is rarely found there. He translated this idea into intentionally uneven hemlines on flowing skirts and dresses.
These designs also reflect Anderson's use of imperfection in craftsmanship. From asymmetrical hemlines to mismatched earrings and even Lady Dior Bags that looked scrunched and lived-in, each piece felt effortless rather than overengineered, giving the collection a light, loose, and breathable quality. As the brand puts it in the press release, "the collection anticipates a warm breeze." Keep scrolling to discover all the beautiful and intentional details from Anderson's S/S 27 collection for Dior.
Petal-Like Textures
We know—flowers for spring traditionally aren't groundbreaking. However, when garments are designed to look like real blossoming flowers, we beg to differ. Leave it to the mastermind Anderson to do just that. Anderson cut petal-like shapes out of silk mousseline and organza and created jackets, miniskirts, and handbags made entirely from the small pieces of fabric. The lightness of the materials and the way the petals were placed made the garments feel alive—floating and drifting in the wind, responding naturally to nature.
Asymmetry at Its Finest
As mentioned, asymmetry underpinned the collection. Almost every look conveyed a sense of imbalance: long scarves draped over the shoulders with one side longer than the other, mismatched earrings, handkerchief skirts and dresses, long coats with raw hems, and layered necklaces hung at different lengths. While the designs will surely be beautiful standing on their own in a store or showroom, what makes them even more alluring is the sense of movement they conveyed on the runway. Whether seen in real time in Paris or later in images online, that sense of movement came from the asymmetry, which let the eye travel up and down and side to side rather than settle in one place.
La Cigale–Inspired Dresses
As the brand states in the press release, "The essence of early Dior silhouettes is taken in new directions." This idea is especially evident in the dresses, many of which appear to draw from the Cigale Dress, part of Dior's F/W 52 haute couture collection, known for its sculptural construction and sharply defined silhouettes. For spring, Anderson both honored and redefined this archival form through two distinct variations, preserving its signature fitted bodice, voluminous skirt, and intricate pleating. The first, seen in black, baby pink, and honeydew green, featured a square neckline with delicate spaghetti straps, dramatically accentuated hips, and a relaxed bow detail at the sternum. The second featured a rounded neckline and a peplum-shaped skirt in a saturated pink hue.
Anderson-Coded Accessories
From the iconic shoe line by Roger Vivier in 1953 to the Chouchou Bag, famously gifted to Princess Diana in 1995 and renamed the Lady Dior a year later, Dior's bags and shoes have remained central to the house's identity. For spring, Anderson drew on Dior's heritage while adding his signature touch. The collection revisited the iconic Dior Cigale and the Lady Dior, both updated with relaxed proportions. It also featured the Toujours Bag, which Anderson reimagined for his F/W 26 collection, and a hobo version of the Milly-La-Forêt Bag, a style Anderson introduced in his S/S 26 collection. As for brand-new silhouettes, there was a biker-inspired bag with zipped pocket flaps, cannage stitching, and metal D-I-O-R hardware in a range of colorways; playful silk-scarf shoulder bags embellished with fringe; simple yet elevated oversize suede everyday styles for the women on the go; and what we're guessing will be the most coveted buy: a not-yet-named bowler-style bag with long straps, rendered in opulent ostrich leather as well as with the same quilted motif as the Milly-La-Forêt Bag. For shoes, photographs of flowers were printed onto square-toe block heels, continuing the collection's nature-inspired language; the Dior Bow Sandal in a thong silhouette debuted in metallic gold as well as shiny sage green; and the Dior Cigale Shoe, inspired by the bag, was also introduced, with a petal-shaped sole, blending the notion of nature and craftsmanship.
A Star-Studded Front Row
The Dior show is always a highlight of Paris Fashion Week, made even buzzier by Anderson's deep industry ties and long-standing friendships with fashion's biggest names. So it's safe to say his shows always guarantee a star-studded front row. For spring/summer 2027, Jennifer Lawrence made an appearance, followed by Cynthia Erivo, Anya Taylor-Joy, Rosalía, and Karlie Kloss. To top it off, Rihanna attended in support of Anderson.
WHO: Jennifer Lawrence
WHO: Rihanna
WHO: Anya Taylor-Joy
WHO: Cynthia Erivo
WHO: Rosalía
WHO: Miranda Kerr
WHO: Karlie Kloss
WHO: Mia Goth
