This Loewe Bag Is a Fashion-Person Favourite—I Test Drove It to See If It Deserves the Hype

The Loewe Puzzle bag is 10 years old. In honour of this milestone anniversary, one fashion writer looks back on Jonathan Anderson's most enduring creations to uncover if it's stood the test of time (and weighs in on whether it's worth the buzz).

A collage of Who What Wear's Ava Gilchrist reviewing the Loewe puzzle bag by wearing it and testing it in different settings.
(Image credit: @avahgilchrist)

The first memory I have of the Loewe Puzzle bag will stay with me forever. I was a fresh university graduate who, at the tender age of 20, had begun her first-ever, full-time, "big girl" job at one of Sydney's most prestigious PR firms. The Spanish luxury brand, which was then helmed by fashion designer Jonathan Anderson, was one of the agency’s clients.

When the time came to present the latest range to the Australian market, I watched as the stark white walls and bright pink floors of the showroom transformed into a temporary Casa Loewe—the term coined by the brand to describe their flagship boutiques. There, amid the feathered headpieces, baroque-inspired heels and bustle-like drop waist dresses of the spring/summer 2020 collection, I saw it—the Loewe Puzzle bag perched on a marble-esque plinth in all its glory.

An image of Loewe's spring/summer 2020 collection.

(Image credit: @avahgilchrist)

Style Notes: The aforementioned showing featuring the first ever Puzzle bag I laid eyes on in person.

You see, the Loewe Puzzle bag was still a relatively novel design, but nonetheless had veritably reached cult status to the point where every fashion lover—even the most nascent ones—had made this the object of their affections. The silhouette introduced the next era for the crafts-focused heritage house. Under the creative control of the Northern Irish visionary, Anderson ushered in a new era for the brand. This direction cemented itself in his inaugural spring/summer 2015 collection when Loewe’s first-ever iteration of the Puzzle bag—and notably, the first-ever new Loewe bag for the brand since the 1980s—hit the runway.

An image of the first-ever Loewe Puzzle bag design on the spring/summer 2015 runway.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Style Notes: The first-ever Loewe Puzzle bag design on the spring/summer 2015 runway.

The initial iterations were a patchwork of suede, leather and snake-effect cutouts that were pieced together like a jigsaw. (Hence the name.) A lot has changed in the decade since the Loewe Puzzle bag made its debut. The brand’s artistic reins have now been handed to Proenza Schouler founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez and Anderson is now at Dior, but the Puzzle bag nevertheless remains one of the most popular designer handbags of all time.

This is by no means a small feat, especially when its desirability is on par with the Hermés Birkin, which was created in 1971, or the Prada Galleria, conceived in 2007. So, when the time came to review the Puzzle bag to understand why the style has such a rich legacy, I jumped at the chance to finally take home (at least for a little while) a bag that’s sat at the top of my wish list for five years straight.

Is the Loewe Puzzle bag worth it? Will the Loewe Puzzle bag retain its value? Why is the Loewe Puzzle bag so popular? These are the questions that I get hurled at myself quite often as a fashion editor with a niche for luxury bags. Uncover all my answers, ahead.

Shop the Loewe Puzzle Bag:

A Deep Review of the Loewe Puzzle Bag

I’m walking through Bayswater in central London and I begin to notice the glare of people’s eyes as they pass me. This is an unusual sensation for me, but I chalk it up to their envy as I’m carrying my latest prized possession: The Loewe Puzzle bag.

Earlier in the week, I was put on an assignment by my editor to test-drive the bag and see if, ten years on, it continues to live up to the hype. But as you would with any high-ticket item, I opted for the freshest model. In celebration of the Loewe Puzzle bag’s 10th anniversary, the brand released the Featherlight Puzzle, a style “defined by its distinctive geometric lines and cuboid shape and crafted in an innovative featherlight nappa lambskin,” according to a press release.

To accompany the launch, a campaign starring Bones and All star and Loewe runway model Taylor Russell was released, where, posing in woodlands, the actress highlighted the lightweight and soft feel of the sheep leather silhouette. Still, in the bustling English capital, these were the qualities that stood out the most to me.

I’m typically a schlepper, meaning I carry every necessity you can think of (and then some) with me at all times. My bags are never micro-sized as I want to be prepared for anything. Yet, I was chomping at the bit to trade my ludicrously capacious signature woven leather bag for the small-sized Featherlight Puzzle.

A fair warning for you. This size won’t fit your laptop or emotional-support water bottle. But it is homely enough for me to tote around several lip glosses, a bottle of perfume, a digital camera, a La Bonne Brosse hairbrush, plus some essentials like my sunglasses and wallet. How’d I manage to fit it all? Easy. The Puzzle bag comes with secret pockets, including one tucked away on the detachable leather luggage tag.

I rarely go hands-free during the week. Though on this occasion, I gladly traded up. The first stop of the day was a pastry run to fuel myself for a busy day of meetings, writing and schmoozing—you know, all the glamorous things us magazine journalists get up to. (Kidding!) Slinging it into the crook of my arm à la a Miu Miu autumn/winter 2023 model, I was instantly impressed with how buttery the leather was. Truly light as air, I felt that carrying this bag alone made me stand a little taller and look a little brighter. This may explain the cursory glances I got earlier, although I’m blaming it on the bag’s sumptuous touch.

The puzzle also comes with a cross shoulder strap, which gave me extra security when I was commuting to and from appointments on the underground. While I took the utmost care of it while in my possession, I did rest easy thanks to the built-in gold metal feet that help protect against scratches and stains. These additions also kept my bag sitting pretty and upright when resting on a café table or at my desk.

On that note, the bag will eventually become the focus of most discussions that you’re having. When I brought it into the office, the response was like I had just arrived with a newborn. (Cue: countless cooing, fussing and asking “Can I have a hold?” .) The thing that piqued interest the most? The sweet balloon bag charm that came with the style and decorative logo embossed onto the front flap. The compliments didn’t stop there either. As it came with me to after-work drinks with a few girlfriends, everyone gushed over how sleek the shape felt. This comes down to the fact that the design takes inspiration from the Japanese art of paper folding, origami. It’s slightly slouchy, sleek and chic all the same, thanks to the distinctive folds giving it a unique look compared to other styles.

Is the Loewe Puzzle Bag Worth It?

To answer your hotly anticipated question, I'm going to go out on a limb and say I do believe that the Loewe Puzzle bag is worth the investment. Retailing at £3,250 for the small, it’s a very expensive style for a bag that you can really only wear during the daytime, to dinner and cocktail functions where you don’t mind toting a bit of a bulkier accessory. For the same price, you could also buy something like the Miu Miu Arcadie or even two of The Row’s ‘90s shoulder bags. However, in these styles, you’re surely lacking the space and versatility that the Puzzle bag provides.

It suits an array of settings, including walks through the city, business lunches and even grocery hauls. (If you like to bring a touch of luxury to running errands, that is.) I also didn’t waste time in front of my wardrobe wondering what I would wear with it to make it the hero piece of my outfit, like I would if styling the very boxy Gucci Horsebit or Y2K-coded Balenciaga City bag.

The Puzzle bag’s appeal is that it doesn’t require any help to make an impact; the singular shape does that all on its own. Don’t get me wrong, though, it’s probably one of the least flashy designer bags around. In saying that, the currency range available, from the confetti style released to celebrate the bag’s 10th birthday to the rich merlot colour I burnt red colour I wore, is expansive enough to service any need. Whether you want a style that turns heads or fades into the background, Loewe has a Puzzle for you. (Talk about finding the perfect fit.)

My only qualm with the bag was that the handle only allowed you to carry it by hand or to rest it on your elbow. I don’t mean to ruffle feathers, but I personally loathe the look of cross-body styles when out and about. There’s something dragging a bag across my torso that makes me feel so touristy, so when I don’t need to wear it this way to ward off pickpockets, you’ll always find me carrying a bag on my shoulder. This isn’t possible with the Puzzle, however, it wasn’t a deal-breaker for me. Sure, the Loewe Puzzle bag won’t fit a laptop, but what you’re buying into is more important than that.

To me and many others, the Loewe Puzzle bag is indicative of a wider movement. Each season, Anderson designed a Puzzle bag to reflect the temperature of the culture, whether that be collaborating with animation titans Studio Ghibli or artists including Ken Price or William Morris. London-based digital native and social media strategist Connor Downey echoes this sentiment.

In 2024, Downey retweeted a photo of an heirloom tomato, adding that the ridged fruit was “so Loewe I can’t explain it”. His statement instantly went viral, even becoming picked up by Anderson himself. In the following months, Loewe created a tomato clutch inspired by Downey’s espousal, an act he dubbed being “harvested from a viral moment.” Moments like these and the design of the Puzzle bag hark back to what Downey describes as the brand’s “artistic blend of traditional craftsmanship with a modern aesthetic”. These qualities make the brand “the epitome of understated elegance”.

“Under Anderson, Loewe was never flashy; it was real,” he says. “The brand responds to art and culture with an authentic take on what everyday people are wearing, twisted with surreal elements that give it a unique identity.” The Puzzle bag is symbolic of how Downey notes Loewe “essentially tore up the rulebook on luxury being elitist”.

He adds: “They made the Loewe world fit into the existing world. They’re not selling you a dream, they’re luring you into a world where fashion is fun, playful and in the know with what people are talking about.”

Why Is the Loewe Puzzle Bag So Popular?

But why the Puzzle when there are other styles like the Flameco or Basket Tote to contend with? Well, it comes down to the fact that the Puzzle was the inimitable original. “The puzzle bag is a great example of Loewe’s commitment to craftsmanship through its construction,” Downey acknowledges. “It’s a timeless piece that has evolved over the years through collaborations and new iterations such as the tote, which means it has never lost its appeal,” he adds.

“I think its adaptations over the years show that it’s a timeless piece that works for everyone, establishing it as an essential. There’s also an appetite for good quality everyday bags — I see a lot more people are keen to invest in a designer bag on the premise of durability and its ability to fit into people’s lifestyles. I think the bag’s longevity has proven it’s [a classic], and its many versions show the many ways why this bag is a hero piece!”

Will the Loewe Puzzle Bag Hold Its Value?

On a statistical level, founder and CEO of leading consignment company Sellier in Knightsbridge, Hanushka Toni, tells me that she’s seen a “steady and consistent interest” in the Puzzle bag.

“Loewe has a refined and contemporary aesthetic that doesn’t rely on obvious logos or trend-led gimmicks,” she explains. “It centres around innovation and its uncontested expertise in leather—unsurprising given that it's one of the oldest luxury fashion houses in the world.” According to her, the Puzzle “holds its value well, particularly in classic colourways and limited editions”.

“There’s been a noticeable uptick in demand recently, likely linked to the 10th anniversary, with a 20% increase in purchases YOY, and we expect that to continue, especially as Loewe’s visibility on the runway and among high-profile figures continues to grow,” Toni adds.

Downey summarises it best here: “The Puzzle bag proves that Anderson is, and has always been, miles ahead of anyone.” Owning a Puzzle bag is like being part of one of fashion’s most revered chapters. To me, being part of this history doesn’t have a price tag.

Shop the Loewe Puzzle Bag:

Loewe Puzzle Bag Key Information:

Sizes: Small and Mini

Colours: Currently seven, including black, shell grey, aquamarine, dark butter, dark brownie, pecan and burnt red.

Main Material: Featherlight Nappa Lambskin

Strap Length: 92 -112 cm

Strap Drop: 46 - 56 cm

Handle Drop: 7 cm

Weight: 0.5 kg

Height: 16.5 cm

Width: 24 cm

Depth: 10.5 cm

Made in Spain

Celebrities Wearing the Loewe Puzzle Bag

An image of Dame Maggie Smith wearing the Loewe Puzzle bag as part of the brand's spring 2024 pre-collection.

(Image credit: Loewe)

Style Notes: Loewe broke the internet when casting the then 88-year-old Dame Maggie Smith for its spring 2024 pre-collection campaign. Consider us spellbound.

An image of Ayo Edebiri wearing a Loewe Puzzle bag while doing press in New York in 2024.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Style Notes: Loewe's appeal also comes down to the brand's ability to tap burgeoning stars on the cusp of making it big in their careers. Case in point: Ayo Edebiri doing press wearing head-to-toe Loewe in 2024. The brand has gone on to dress her for the Met Gala, the Emmys and Golden Globes.

An image of Beyoncé carrying one of the first-ever Loewe Puzzle bags while at a basketball game in 2016.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Style Notes: Beyoncé is always an early adopter of trends before they become mainstream. In 2016, the Grammy Award-winning musician wore one of the first iterations of the Puzzle bag to a basketball game in Los Angeles.

Influencers Wearing the Loewe Puzzle Bag

An image of @rebeccaferrazwyatt wearing an Aquamarine Loewe Puzzle bag with a black leather jacket, capri pants and ballet pumps while in London.

(Image credit: @rebeccaferrazwyatt)

Style Notes: Influencer Rebecca Ferraz-Wyatt proves how easily adaptable the Loewe Puzzle bag is with this look. Even with such a bright colour, the bag seamlessly complements her outfit without overpowering the look.

An image of @lizzyhadfield wearing a suede Loewe Puzzle bag with a black top, white pants and black boots while in London.

(Image credit: @lizzyhadfield)

Style Notes: Those who prefer more minimalist fashion will enjoy this suede version seen here on Lizzy Hadfield.

An image of @smythsisters wearing a black Loewe Puzzle bag alongside a beige trench coat, black trousers and black heeled boots.

(Image credit: @smythsisters)

Style Notes: As Marianne Smyth showcases, the Loewe Puzzle can serve you through all seasons.

The Loewe Puzzle Bag on the Runway

An image of the Loewe Puzzle bag on the brand's spring/summer 2025 runway.

(Image credit: Launch Metrics / Loewe)

Style Notes: The bag appears on the brand's spring/summer 2025 runway.

An image of the Loewe Puzzle bag on the brand's autumn/winter 2022 runway.

(Image credit: Launch Metrics / Loewe)

Style Notes: Worn with a long-sleeve top and skirt on the brand's autumn/winter 2022 runway.

An image of the first-ever Loewe Puzzle bag design on the spring/summer 2015 runway.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Style Notes: The first-ever Loewe Puzzle bag design on the spring/summer 2015 runway.

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Ava Gilchrist is the SEO Writer at Who What Wear UK. Born in Sydney but now based in London, Ava has worked at some of the most prestigious women’s luxury and lifestyle publications including ELLE, Marie Claire and most recently GRAZIA where she held the title of Senior Fashion Features Writer. Ava has five years of industry experience, beginning her writing career after graduating with a Bachelor of Communication from the University of Technology, Sydney. Her words fuse style with substance, bringing readers insightful commentary on the latest fashion trends, runway shows, celebrity red carpet offerings, must-have shopping pieces, beauty hacks and pop cultural moments. As an editor, Ava has interviewed everyone from Kendall Jenner, Margot Robbie, Zendaya, Emma Corrin and Stella McCartney.