From Leotards to Grecian Gowns, the Dior Show Was Cemented in Female Warriorship
Every fashion month, we're eager to see what Maria Grazia Chiuri has up her sleeve for Dior. So, on Tuesday, we excitedly tuned in to view the French fashion house's latest S/S 25 collection. What did we witness? A captivating fusion of influences from sports and Greek antiquity, showcasing Chiuri and Dior's unique design perspective.
It's worth noting that Dior has a rich history of integrating sportswear into its designs, however, this collection took the concept to new heights, transcending modern approaches to luxury athleisure and performance wear. The runway show started with multidisciplinary artist and competitive archer Sofia Ginevra Giannì, who showed off her archery skills by firing bows at a target. Models gracefully paraded around her wearing sports-inspired pieces, from cutout asymmetric one-pieces resembling swimsuits or gymnastic leotards to track pants, perfect for pre- or post-workout. Each design was crafted to seamlessly blend form and function using lightweight, performance-oriented fabrics.
Inspired by the proto-feminist Greek goddesses, Chiuri's designs also paid homage to the ancient world with functional silhouettes reminiscent of Grecian attire. For example, protective harness-like belts adorned blazers and elegant one-shoulder silhouettes exuded strength and dynamism, symbolizing women's empowerment and the deep connection to historical roots. But that's not all. Read on to see all the highlights from the Dior S/S 25 show during Paris Fashion Week.
Celebrities in Attendance
Off the runway, the front row was filled with beautiful style stars impeccably decked out in Dior. Anya Taylor-Joy was in attendance, wearing an intricate two-piece skirt set. Kelly Rutherford sported a monochromatic white look consisting of a midi-length belted coat and knee-high boots. Jennifer Garner exuded Parisian chic in a long gray houndstooth coat, black dress, heeled Mary Janes, and the brand's 30 Montaigne bag. Additionally, Rosalía, Dior's newest global ambassador, stunned in a black fitted jacket, midi pencil skirt, leather gloves, and slingbacks.
WHO: Anya Taylor-Joy
WHO: Kelly Rutherford
WHO: Jennifer Garner
WHO: Rosalïa
Renaissance-esque
The show placed a strong emphasis on antiquity, particularly delving into the rich tapestry of Greek mythology and its profound influence on fashion. Chiuri celebrated the strength and independence of ancient Greek goddesses by reimagining classic cuts from the past, such as the Amazone dress, which symbolizes fearless femininity. Other notable designs included warrior-inspired pleated skirts, harness-like belts on blazers, gladiator sandals, and double headbands resembling tainias, all of which conveyed the bold and assertive nature of women.
Sports-Inspired, Continued
If you've been keeping up with the latest runway shows, you may have noticed that sportswear has been influencing the fashion world. One notable example is Dior's S/S 25 collection, where Chirui put a couture spin on athleisure. She drew inspiration from the 1962 Dior Sport collection, which could be seen through the wide-leg track pants adorned with a retro '70s Dior logo that had been stretched and elongated to create a vertical stripe effect. Additionally, there were many different kinds of sporty footwear, such as boot-like sneakers with details reminiscent of shin guards. The influence of motocross was also apparent through vintage-style leather moto jackets and black-and-white check-print separates.
An Anti-Color Story
The spring 2025 runway collections have been full of vibrant colors, such as powder pink during New York Fashion Week and bright orange at London Fashion Week. The Dior show, however, stood out with its elegant neutral tones, showcasing the power of simplicity through intentional and functional designs.
The first half of the collection featured striking all-black looks, while the middle section introduced captivating combinations of white and black, reflecting Dior's romantic and sophisticated design aesthetic. The latter part of the collection made it one to remember with the rich-looking metallic and bedazzled outfits that featured luxurious gold and champagne hues.
Nikki Chwatt is an associate fashion editor based in New York City. She joined Who What Wear in 2024 after writing fashion, beauty, and lifestyle content for WWD, Well+Good, Editorialist, and more. With a passion for personal style and the creativity that comes with it, one of Chwatt's goals is to help others understand that there is no such thing as a “good” or “bad” style; it’s just about putting an outfit together that makes you feel confident in yourself. When she's not writing, you can find her taking a Pilates class, reading a powerful romance novel, or exploring a new wellness spot in Manhattan.
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