Life-Changing Gyoza and Unbeatable Vintage: Poppy Lissiman's Fashion-Girl Guide to Tokyo

Welcome to Locals Only. In this series, we're tapping notable locals in the style space to share a tight list of their top recommendations of what to see, eat, and shop in their home city. They'll share off-the-radar recs that you won't find in your average guidebook, resulting in digestible mini guides revealing where the city's most fashionable residents are actually hanging out.

Poppy Lissiman certainly knows how to design a mean pair of sunglasses—Justin Bieber and Bella Hadid are fans—but this story isn't about her quirky, colorful, cool accessories. Instead, I'm highlighting her top travel recommendations for her adopted city of Tokyo. As it turns out, she's a treasure trove of information when it comes to the Japanese capital's best restaurants, shops, activities, museums, hotels, cafés, bookstores, and more.

"If you're traveling to Japan (especially outside of the winter months) check to see what Matsuri festivals are going on," Lissiman told Who What Wear. "Matsuri festivals celebrate culture, community, and religion, usually on one of the many public/national holidays Japan has. They're a great way to see Japan's culture in full swing: dancing, drums, parades, floats, fabulous food stalls, and street drinking."

If you're looking for a more low-key activity, Lissiman also has you covered. "Walk along the Nakameguro River, which is special any time of the year but particularly beautiful and buzzing during cherry blossom season when the trees lining the river are in bloom. Hundreds of street vendors pop up selling everything pink (like champagne and candy-covered strawberries)." Scroll down for more of Poppy Lissiman's Tokyo recommendations.

How long have you lived in Tokyo, and where are you from originally?

I have lived in Tokyo for just over two years. I am originally from Fremantle on Western Australia's southwest coast.

What are some of your favorite Tokyo neighborhoods, and where do you find yourself spending the most time?

I spend the most time in the area I live in, Minamiaoyama, and the surrounding suburbs, which are a fashion lover's heaven: Omotesando, Harajuku, Jingumae, Aoyama, and Shibuya.

What does a typical day off look like for you?

If I'm not taking a day trip outside of greater Tokyo, a typical day for me usually entails some form of shopping. Whether that's just window shopping, vintage, or books. My favorite things to hunt for are secondhand designer clothing and accessories or rare books usually on the subjects of photography, art, architecture, and fashion. It's a vice that has definitely grown stronger since living here and having access to some of the most wonderful bookstores.

More places you can find me are the backstreets and main drag of Jingumae and Omotesando for great fashion (and secondhand designer shopping). My favorite stores are Vintage QOO, Casanova Vintage, and Amore Tokyo for unbeatable selections of luxury secondhand vintage accessories, especially the more random conceptual pieces from brands like Chanel, Fendi, Dior, Hermès, Goyard and Louis Vuitton. For left-of-center, avant-garde local Japanese pieces that err on the side of costumes, head to Dog in Harajuku or Boutique Takenoko just outside Harajuku Station on Takeshita Street.

What to Pack

"I love going to the Oedo flea markets in Ginza (held on the first and third Sunday of every month) followed by a trip to the university town of Jimbocho. Immediately outside of the Jimbocho train station is a stack of great vintage bookstores. My favorites are Komiyama Book Store, Bohemian's Guild, Super Labo Store, and Wols Books. They all have an unmatched selection of old and rare books for fashion, architecture, art, photography, and other niche topics like watches, cars, films, and graphic design."

When asked about her favorite mid-priced hotel in Tokyo, Lissiman was quick to mention Trunk Hotel Yoyogi Park. "It's one of the few hotels in Tokyo that has an outdoor pool, and it's next to one of my favorite cafés, Fuglen," Lissiman told Who What Wear. Selected as one of Travel + Leisure's best new hotels, it first opened in September 2023 and boasts just 25 rooms.

"The flagship store for Officine Universelle Buly is my favorite store fit-out in the world. Truly iconic. Dover Street Market Ginza is also an essential stop-off in Tokyo. The upper levels of Komehyo in Shibuya have the best selection of vintage Issey Miyake Pleats Please and Chanel jackets. For more affordable, vintage, non-designer pieces, I love Toro Vintage in Jingumae. The whole fit-out and edit is very Bode-adjacent.

"Another one of my favorite places in Tokyo is Daikanyama T-Site. It's probably one of the greatest bookstores in the world. I go straight to the top floor to order a glass of champagne or a cup of coffee and pore over their vast collection of archive magazines: Architectural Digest, every international issue of Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, Domus, Casa Vogue, Playboy—you name it, they have it. Perfectly categorized by year, they have every issue going back decades."

"Koffee Mameya is a minimalist, zen-inspired coffee shop where they obsess over coffee beans. Expect to wait in line for a while, but it's worth it for anyone who appreciates when coffee connoisseurs take it to the next level." The innovative menu includes coffee cocktails by Akira Zushi, including one mixed with milk brew coffee, guava, cucumber, and mint.

There's no question that Issey Miyake is one of the most iconic Japanese fashion brands, so paying homage to a legend is a must while in Tokyo. The Issey Miyake store in Ginza opened in 2023 and is one of the brand's largest flagship stores. What can you expect? Four floors, floating aluminum walls, and a gallery space that exhibits work from both Miyake and other artists.

"The Hakone Open Air Museum is my favorite museum. It's about an hour and a half from Tokyo. It has an incredible collection of sculptures and interactive installations that are kid-friendly. The train ride to Hakone is very beautiful if you want to squeeze in a bit of nature."

"Near the Hakone Open Air Museum, I would suggest Enoura Observatory, created by Hiroshi Sugimoto. It's an architecture lover's paradise and less touristy than Hakone."

"Whether you come to Suigian for a drink or dinner, you'll be entertained with traditional Japanese dance and drama shows every hour. I came here recently for a pre-dinner drink for my birthday, and we were treated to the most moving dance performance by a geisha. When we sat down, they handed us a lovely little booklet to learn about the décor in this space, which includes a lot of very significant antiques dating back to the 1600s. I'd suggest booking ahead."

Great minds think alike. When asked about her favorite luxury accommodations in Tokyo, Lissiman named Janu, a hotel I included in my list of the most stylish new hotels in the world. Open since March 2024, Janu is the brand-new sister brand of the famed Aman hotel group. Rooms start at approximately $944 per night.

"Go to Iruca in Roppongi for an elevated truffle version of the classic ramen bowl. You will have to line up for at least 30 minutes minimum. If you don't have the patience to line up, Kurobuta in Ginza is a few streets back from Dover Street Market.

"Narukiyo Izakaya in Shibuya is our favorite restaurant in all of Tokyo. Super-cool vibe without trying and the food is delicious. The menu is handwritten in Japanese on a scroll, so just ask the waiter to suggest what dishes to order. Sake comes out in a frozen bamboo shoot. You need to book ahead over the phone. If it's too daunting, ask your hotel to book for you. You usually can get a spot as late as a week out from your desired date, but I'd still try and book earlier to be safe. It's a low-key izakaya but also is a favorite for celebrities: It's not unusual to see Sofia Coppola, Harry Styles, or Dua Lipa here when they're in town!"

"My favorite under-the-radar neighborhood restaurant is without a doubt Yasubei of Ebisu for life-changing gyoza dumplings. It's a small, cheap, and casual restaurant with a buzzing energy (lots of shouting!). No need to reserve in advance, but you might need to line up for 10 to 30 minutes. It's absolutely worth the wait. Order the fried gyoza dumplings: They're paper thin and melt in your mouth. Dip them in a half-and-half mix of soy sauce and vinegar. The potato salad is also elite. Cash only."

On a budget? Lissiman recommends staying at All Day Place, with rates starting at $112 per night. "The rooms are small but chic. The location is great because it's walking distance to the Shibuya station and crossing." The hotel boasts a trio of restaurant options: Good Cheese Good Pizza, Mikkeller Brewery, and About Life Coffee Brewers.