The Insiders Guide to Rome: Where to Stay, Dine, and Shop (and What to Skip)
My fashion-editor list of the worth-it spots in the Eternal City, from luxury hotels to historic restaurants.
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As much reporting as I've done on all the under-the-radar destinations to explore in Italy and around Europe, nothing can ever truly compare to Rome. Between personal and work-related travel, I've had the pleasure of spending a lot of time in the Eternal City this past month, using it both as a launching pad for a trip to Sicily's Aeolian Islands and a way to flank a long-weekend visit to the Tuscan coastal town of Porto Ercole.
As Rome is the gateway to the rest of Italy, chances are always high that you'll need to pass through the city. And when you do, consider this your master list to experience the most stylish, locally beloved, and authentic version of Rome. The city's constant stream of international visitors is undeniable, but the trick isn't to avoid the touristy spots altogether. Simply build your days around the true Roman experience rather than a ticking off a checklist. Take an espresso standing at the bar, opt for a long lunch that turns into an afternoon, and stop off for an evening spritz—you'll need the respite in between all the shopping and sightseeing you'll inevitably do.
Here, my fashion-editor guide to doing just that. It's everything I'd tell a friend heading there, including the luxury hotels to book, the classic Roman trattorias to dine at, the bespoke tailoring shops to discover, and what to pack to enjoy it all in, but especially the shoes I wear when I know I'll be logging over 20,000 steps that day.
When to Visit
"I love November through April, when you’re not fighting the heat," YOLO Journal founder Yolanda Edwards informs. Indeed, the summer months are extremely hot and extremely packed, so unless you're passing through before heading elsewhere in Italy, I'd try to avoid them. "November begins the season of my favorite foods—artichokes, puntarelle, and porcini!" But if you really want to travel like a local, plan a trip in the winter to have all the major sites basically to yourself. It's so slept on! "December is so lovely with all the holiday décor, and since it isn’t seen as a city to visit during the Christmas season, it’s refreshingly filled with locals," she continues. "January and February are definitely cold months, but perfect if you’re after seeing all the museums and sights," Edwards confirms, "and spring is just magical here!"
What to Skip
When I asked Edwards about her best advice for scratching below the surface and getting to the "real" side of the city, her advice was quite simple. "Wake up early and you’ll have the city to yourself. By 9 a.m., the city starts to buzz with people heading to work and tour guides in full force. I’m also a big fan of doing the same at night. You don’t necessarily need to go into the hot spots to enjoy them—just seeing the Colosseum from outside at night is magical. While you’re here to see certain places, if you have to wait in lines and be uncomfortable to do so, don’t make every day filled with those requirements. Think how many places in your own hometown you haven’t visited and cut yourself a break. Make time for wandering and discovery!"
Where to Stay in Rome
It doesn't get any more luxurious than the Bvlgari Hotel Roma. The storied jewelry house is making a name for itself worldwide as the most sought-after hotel brand among fashion people and insiders, but since Bvlgari was originally founded in Rome in 1884, there's something extra special about this exact location. It occupies a 1930s rationalist palace that's been reimagined into a haven of modern Roman elegance and is situated overlooking the Mausoleum of Augustus. The Bvlgari in Rome boasts three Michelin Keys already but just recently landed itself on the World's 50 Best Hotels list for 2026. Like anything Bvlgari touches, the experience is thoroughly high-end. The spa, with its jaw-dropping mosaic tile pool, is nothing short of spectacular.
More than a hotel, though, it's the ideal meeting point, and Edwards says that the Bvlgari is one of her favorite places for cocktails on the roof or a cappuccino on the outdoor terrace on the ground floor.
Casa Monti is the sister property of one of my favorite Paris hotels, La Fantaisie, so I already knew I was in for a treat before I'd even stepped foot through its lobby. The hotel is intimate at just 36 rooms but is filled to the brim with character and charm—its maximalist design is credited to renowned architect and designer Laura Gonzalez.
Come for its endlessly photogenic rooms, rooftop bar with sweeping views of the city, and decadent marble jacuzzi, but stay at the five-star property for its special location, too. Housed in a former police station in the neighborhood of Monti—the very first "neighborhood" established in ancient Rome—just steps away from the Colosseum, it's situated in a quieter, more local part of Rome that's still very accessible from everything else you might want to see and do. You'll know you've arrived when you approach the tangerine-hued vintage Fiat parked permanently outside.
As for the finer details, Santa Maria Novella products are stocked in the bathroom, and thoughtful touches like under-eye patches and CBD gummies left during turndown service are delivered with the hotel's signature cheeky brand voice. To note, the room service was delivered at lightning speed.
"I adore the Locarno, which is caught in time in all the right ways," Edwards describes of the retro-glam hotel. The Michelin Key–awarded address is outfitted in a signature 1920s Art Deco style, and the rooms themselves are opulent and awe-inspiring, each one designed distinctly from the last. Tucked away on a quiet road just off the Piazza del Popolo but adjacent to all the best luxury shopping on Via Condotti, it's a favorite among tastemakers, fashion editors, and even Dua Lipa, who spent a portion of her honeymoon in one of its ornate suites.
Even if you're not a guest, grabbing an aperitivo or after-dinner drink in the interior terrace is simply a must—"I love to meet up with friends for a drink on their garden terrace," Edwards says, and they also happen to make one of my favorite cocktails in the whole world, the 1925, a creative take on the Negroni.
When a filmmaker as beloved as Luca Guadagnino is involved in bringing a hotel to life, you know it's going to be good. Redesigned through his own design studio, the result is Palazzo Talìa, a 26-room stay that feels as cinematic and stirring as any Guadagnino film. It's set in a restored 16th-century palazzo and sits just steps from the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps but, with its frescoed halls and leafy courtyard, feels in a world of its own.
More hotels to jot down:
- Orient Express La Minerva is the luxury train brand's first hotel located in a beautifully restored 17th-century palazzo near the Pantheon.
- Coming from the Ferragamo family, Portrait Roma is the city's gateway to fashion, and it fittingly sits above a Salvatore Ferragamo store, close to the Spanish Steps.
- Experimental Roma is set to bring its irreverent design aesthetic to the city with a new opening this fall.
Where to Dine in Rome
The year is in the name, and the recipes have the staying power to match. This family-run restaurant near the Teatro dell'Opera is a classic for a reason. Order the signature amatriciana, with its guanciale and tomato sauce, and settle into a checkered-tablecloth kind of evening that feels like the real Rome.
Nino is a beloved and enduring spot that Edwards says is on weekly repeat for her. "I love the waiters in white jackets, the wood paneled interiors, and the classic menu."
Tucked down a cobblestoned lane near Piazza di Spagna, this cozy trattoria does Roman cooking exactly right. Start with the crispy fried artichokes and a plate of supplì, then move on to the namesake amatriciana. The vibe is lively and unfussy, and the outdoor tables are prime for people-watching on a warm evening.
A short walk from the Trevi Fountain, this old-school Roman institution has been feeding locals, artists, and the occasional film star for generations. Come for the classics, from cacio e pepe to a proper carbonara, served in a warm, wood-paneled room where the waiters have seen it all. Book ahead and order like a regular.
More dining to jot down:
- The endlessly elegant Dal Bolognese is home to The Millennial Decorator Julia Rabinowitsch's favorite pasta pomodoro.
- Piatto Romano is is a Testaccio staple serving hearty, old-school Roman classics in a no-frills, local-filled setting.
- "Rocco is an excellent neighborhood restaurant that attracts the creative locals," Edwards shares, "and the food is market driven with a menu that changes every day, and I love the interior."
- Hostaria da Pietro, run by two brothers, Pietro and Francesco, just steps from Piazza del Popolo, is a favorite of Bloch Fiorelli.
Best Cafés and Bakeries in Rome
Bar Farnese
Do as the Romans do: Stand at the counter, sip a perfectly pulled espresso, and pair it with a maritozzo. Near Campo de' Fiori, this is a locally beloved stop to start your morning or reset in the afternoon before another lap of the historic center.
Since 1900, this gelateria near the Pantheon has been the place for a scoop or three. The move is to get a cup or cone topped with a generous swirl of fresh whipped cream (panna). The flavors are old-fashioned in the best way, and the line moves faster than you'd think.
Biscottificio Artigiano Innocenti
This Trastevere bakery is a charming step back in time. The family-run shop has been baking biscuits in its old ovens for decades, and the cookies are sold by weight, scooped into paper bags. Pick up an assortment of buttery, crumbly treats to snack on while you wander the neighborhood's ivy-draped streets.
More cafés to jot down:
- Pop into Boccione for its famed ricotta and sour cherry tart.
- Sant' Eustachio Caffè is an institution and sells its own Nespresso pods that make for a great souvenir to take home.
- Caffè Portoghesi is a real local spot that Edwards loves for coffee and aperitivo. "They also make great sandwiches—perfect for a quick lunch."
- Schostal Originals' Andrew Bloch Fiorelli loves Sciascia Caffè 1919. "Like us, it carries a lot of heritage and serves wonderful traditional Italian coffee."
Where to Shop in Rome
For elegant, timeless pieces with a distinctly Roman sensibility, head to Schostal Originals. The shop draws on a long heritage of Italian craftsmanship, and its delicate, well-made finishes are worth the detour. Stop in for something special that feels both classic and personal.
"Schostal was the worst-kept secret among Romans, the who's who of the city, and slowly the rest of Italy caught on," its co-owner Andrew Bloch Fiorelli shares. The A-list names found it the same way and include everyone and their mother from Zendaya to Wes Anderson. "The way everything is stacked on the shelves, seemingly just out of reach, is part of the charm and not a barrier," Bloch Fiorelli continues. "Some people are shy and afraid to ask, but I promise you, ask my mother or anyone on the staff kindly, and we will pull down whole shelves until we find exactly the right piece for you."
A small atelier with a big point of view, Le Tre Sarte is where you'll find beautifully made, Italian-crafted pieces with an artisan touch. Think thoughtful tailoring, feminine silhouettes, and the kind of details you only notice up close. Come for a standout piece you'll be wearing for years.
Tailors to popes since 1798, Gammarelli is a Roman legend, but the real souvenir is a pair of cashmere socks
This design-forward boutique is a great stop for anyone hunting for something you won't see on every street back home. The pieces feel fresh and expressive, with a creative, independent spirit. Give yourself time to try things on, and don't be surprised if you leave with more than one thing.
More shopping to jot down:
- SeryMoon Vintage
- Emporio Centrale has an excellent curation of Italian goods from homewares to beauty to accessories.
- Cavalli e Nastri houses Rome's best curation of vintage designer.
- At Calzature Campo Marzio, traditional velvet Venetian slippers and Mary Jane flats come in every color of rainbow.
- CIR Corredi e Ricami a Mano is the most charming embroidery shop selling everything from tablecloths to baby clothes.
What to See and Do in Rome
Perched on the Pincian Hill, this Renaissance villa is home to the French Academy in Rome. Tour the manicured gardens, catch a contemporary art exhibition, and take in sweeping views across the city's rooftops. It's a quiet, romantic escape just steps from the Spanish Steps.
Housed in a still-lived-in Roman palazzo just off Via del Corso, this private collection rivals the city's major museums with far fewer crowds. Look for the Caravaggio and Velázquez masterpieces, then wander the gilded halls, which feel like a glimpse into aristocratic Rome. The family-narrated audio guide is a charming touch.
Villa Borghese Gardens
Rome's most beloved green space is perfect for a slow afternoon or an early morning as there are some lovely little cafés within it. Edwards says she goes to the Casino del Lago café every morning, "and it, and most of the park, is filled with Romans walking their dogs." Rent a bike, row a boat on the small lake, or stroll to the Pincio Terrace for a classic sunset view over Piazza del Popolo. Pair it with a visit to the Galleria Borghese and its Bernini sculptures set within the park.
More sights to jot down:
- In my experience, the best way to see Rome's famed sites is by night when the crowds thin. Make a point to visit the Trevi Fountain after a late dinner and you can get up close to it (without paying the entrance fee).
- Similarly, walk, bike, or take a Vespa ride around the Colosseum after dark for a truly magical experience
- Edwards also shares that under-the-radar museum Palazzo Altemps is outstanding. "On every visit, I've had most of the rooms all to myself."
- Catch the sunset from one of Rome's many rooftops—my favorite is the terrace bar on the top floor of Casa Monti.
What to Pack
Packing for Rome is all about understanding sprezzatura, the Italian art of looking effortlessly put together. Romans dress with a polished ease, so think tailored but relaxed: a crisp white button-down, well-cut trousers or an easy midi skirt, and a lightweight trench or unstructured blazer for cooler mornings and evenings. I'd bring a neutral palette you can mix and match, then add a pop of color with a silk scarf or a great pair of sunglasses. Also pack a few pieces with covered shoulders and hemlines that hit the knee or below since you'll want them for stepping into churches and basilicas (a big scarf or shawl in your tote solves this in a pinch).
The most important item, though, is your footwear. Rome's historic center is paved with uneven cobblestones (sampietrini), and you'll easily log 20,000 steps a day, so save the stilettos and opt for sleek leather loafers, ballet flats, or a low block heel for dinner. A comfortable pair of flats is the best solution for days packed with sightseeing. I love my Venetian slippers from Flabelus.
