Haider Ackermann's Tom Ford Rewrites the Rules of Naked Dressing
Things just got considerably hotter in Paris. That's because Haider Ackermann presented his S/S 27 collection for Tom Ford, and if we had to sum it up in three words, it would be sexy, sensual, and sophisticated.
This was Ackermann at his best but unmistakably Tom Ford coded. The collection brought together elements from both worlds: satin bralettes paired with skirts ranging from sheer midis to fluid maxis, trousers traded for bare legs, and underwear paired simply with sweaters. Leather and pinstripes were reworked into sharp, tailored pieces, giving them a modern edge. Red roses were pinned to both men's and women's blazers while patent-leather shoes ranged from ankle-strap pumps to strappy heels and loafers. Handbags were kept deliberately minimal, with a select few oversize totes and embellished clutches carrying just enough structure to ground the looks. The color palette was equally restrained: black, red, and white dominated, while shades of blue and green—from cobalt and sky blue to army and kelly green—proved just as versatile as neutrals for spring.
What made the show even more interesting, however, was the casting and how models such as Alex Consani and Anok Yai became more than bodies showcasing the collection. They moved almost like silent actors, bringing a powerful presence to the clothes. Rather than simply walking one by one in a traditional single-file format, they moved with poise, commanding every step as they navigated the transparent walls scattered through the Place Vendôme, all set to a sensual soundtrack. Keep scrolling to discover all of the need-to-know details from the collection.
After-Hours Tailoring
True to Tom Ford's DNA, the collection drew on sharp tailoring. Ackermann, however, reimagined traditional pieces like blazers and trousers for evening wear, moving them beyond the usual office setting. For instance, menswear-inspired blazers were casually draped over the shoulder and paired with sequin bodysuits or with mesh shirts and high-waisted trousers. Some blazers were left open with nothing underneath, leaving little to the imagination, while other looks incorporated very relaxed jackets with almost-sheer trousers, challenging conventional ideas of tailoring.
Satin Underpinnings
The after-hours ensembles continued, with many featuring satin bralettes in bold shades like red, silver, blue, and black. Some were worn solo with sleek tailored pants, while others were layered nonchalantly beneath evening jackets or paired with daring off-the-shoulder gowns. All were exposed, revealing just enough to captivate and highlight Ackermann's talent for capturing Tom Ford’s signature allure: desire.
No Pants, No Problem
Ackermann knows the fashion saying "less is more" all too well, but for spring 2027, he took the concept literally by stripping back traditional trousers and embracing bottomless dressing. The runway featured several outfits with tiny underwear paired with sweaters. Later, the focus shifted to sheer bodysuits and daring cutout leotards that naturally drew attention.
The Romantic Rose
From white petals covering the runway for its F/W 15 show to metallic rose accessories in its S/S 23, the fashion house has a history of using refined floral embellishments. Ackermann has also been fascinated by elegant flowers, especially recently, with the flower corsages in the Tom Ford F/W 26 collection and the white rose brooch pinned to Madonna's 2025 Met Gala look. So adding flowers to the spring 2027 collection felt like a natural meeting point. For the season ahead, Ackermann did so by taking lifelike red roses and pinning them to the welt pockets on both men's and women's blazers. These brooches also fit the red color story that ran through the collection, along with its overall romantic vibe.
Celebrity Attendees
Tom Ford showcased the collection at 8 p.m. in Paris, a moment when the city shifts from evening to nightlife, and the ambiance becomes darker and more alluring. Celebrity guests echoed this mood in outfits defined by sharp tailoring, sleek silhouettes, and rich textures. Keep scrolling to see what A-listers like Kate Moss, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Tate McRae, Cynthia Erivo, and Shakira wore—head-to-toe Tom Ford, of course.
WHO: Kate Moss
WHO: Tate McRae
WHO: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley
WHO: Shakira
WHO: Cynthia Erivo
WHO: Cara Delevingne
