For years, Balmain has been synonymous with sharp tailoring, military jackets, and the kind of structured glamour that made Olivier Rousteing's designs instantly recognizable. This season, however, Rousteing flipped the script. Out went the traditional Parisian armor, and in came something entirely unexpected: seashell frocks, fringe satchels, and even genie pants! This made for a Balmain that felt less like citywear and more like souvenirs from a dreamy beach escape. In other words, the Balmain you thought you knew just entered a brand-new era.
The past few seasons, especially in Paris, there has been a reintroduction to what it means to be bohemian. This aesthetic had been overlooked for years, but as it has regained popularity, brands are lining up to give it their own spin. Balmain's bohemian might be the most elevated yet, playing into everything that makes this aesthetic so good. If you were waiting for proof that the French-girl aesthetic has been reinvented, this is it. Balmain's latest collection carried the ease and whimsy of a late-summer evening, marking a shift from hard-edged wardrobe staples to something softer, freer, and—dare we say—bohemian. But Rousteing insists it isn't a departure at all. It's a "continuum," as he rightfully dubbed the collection.
Genie Pants
Billowing trousers brought movement and ease to the runway, a clear departure from Balmain's usual structured garments. They were the first thing that stood out as full-on bohemian when the first look graced the carpet. This show took place in the same venue as Rousteing's first show for the brand, and what was once known as the Balmain army has clearly come in with a softer approach.
Rope Belts
The accessory that made the most appearances in this show is none other than a rope belt. This feels specific to this particular collection, as it's not something that I've seen popping up among other fashion houses, making it feel unique to the new Balmain. If you want to make a vacation dress you've worn before feel brand-new, this belt should be in your pre-orders right now for summer 2026.
Fringe Satchels
Embellished with seashell bag charms and large enough to carry a change of clothes or beach towel, the fringe satchels held by the runway models featured long straps, allowing the bags to drop below the waist and swing effortlessly at their sides. Rousteing wove these throughout the collection, proving that movement can be just as impactful as structure.
Seashell Details
The collection's most personal motif came in the form of seashell embellishments, a direct echo of Rousteing's childhood dream. Each one was natural, ethically sourced, and meticulously applied, turning a simple seaside treasure into a couture-level dress, top, or bag charm. More than a trend, the shells embodied the continuity between Rousteing's past and Balmain's future.
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