The Age of Elegance: How Opulent Fashion Is Set to Define 2024
In 2023, restrained minimalism was a major theme—the much-discussed quiet luxury trend was defined by simple silhouettes, few logos, and "if you know, you know" pieces. While those pared-back looks are timeless and will always be in style, it's clear that we're starting to pivot away from restrained dressing. Instead, we saw a shift toward hyper-elegant fashion in the spring 2024 ready-to-wear and spring 2024 couture collections.
Altuzarra sent models down the runway in heavy satin evening coats, A-line circle skirts, and refined scoop-neck midi dresses that took inspiration from the 1968 film Rosemary's Baby. Dior reimagined its iconic hourglass-shaped bar jacket, originally designed in 1947, aptly named for its intended use during afternoon cocktail hour. Hermès brought the Plume bag back to the runway—one of the fashion house's earliest handbag designs from the 1960s. Prada debuted frothy pastel organza dresses with dramatic trains that walked the runway to the soundtrack from Alfred Hitchcock's 1958 film Vertigo.
There is a sense of looking back to the way people used to dress in a bygone time that is really sticking on and off the runways. The timing is interesting, too, from a cultural standpoint. The much-anticipated show Feud: Capote vs. The Swans was released last month, chronicling Truman Capote and the glamorous socialites of '50s and '60s New York. As Rachel Tashjian puts it in the Washington Post, "Ladies who lunch have become 2024's unexpected fashion icons," as lust for the glamour of a previous era has returned.
Simply put, we're entering the age of elegance, and 2024 is marking the return of fashion that is opulent and refined and may just make us want to get dressed up again. Ahead, read more on how elegant fashion will impact what we're wearing.
Satin heels are already one of the most talked-about shoe trends for spring 2024. Versions from Prada and Altuzarra hit the S/S 24 runways in shapes ranging from square-toe kitten heels to pointed pumps. Colorways include everything from soft powder blue to espresso to crisp white. There is little doubt in my mind that these will be the shoes to own in 2024.
We saw the rise of A-line silhouettes last year, but that momentum is only growing. Voluminous circle skirts and dresses with flared bodices appeared in the S/S 24 collections of brands such as Brandon Maxwell, Bottega Veneta, and Carolina Herrera, and we can expect to see these shapes dominate throughout the upcoming year.
Satin was one of the most eye-catching fabrics in the spring 2024 collections. Though we saw this appear in a variety of ways, evening coats were highly impactful. The elegant trenches and car coats were crafted from luxurious heavyweight satin that you can imagine being worn to a night at the opera.
Many models appeared on the runway clutching sophisticated bags in the crook of their arms. One of the most noteworthy newcomers came from Alaïa. The maison introduced the Le Teckel bag—French for dachshund—designed with an elongated shape and long top-handle straps. The style is already primed to be one of the most in-demand bags this season.
Easy elegance is appearing in the form of stunning scoop-neck dresses that fall into midi or maxi lengths. The designs are often finished with boning and beautiful seaming. If anything says "ladies who lunch" in 2024, this silhouette may be it.
When I recently consulted the best dressed insiders on the street style scene about what they will be wearing to fashion month for the fall 2024 season, there was one resounding answer: gloves, specifically leather gloves in short or long lengths. The accessory has also been appearing as a key styling element on the runway at The Row for several seasons now.
I think suiting tells us a lot about where we sit in a larger fashion sense. Several years ago, oversize blazers and suits took over as proportions—and style in general—became more relaxed. With that in mind, it comes as no surprise that we are now seeing the rise of fitted jackets and coordinating skirts.
Watches are traditionally a male-dominated space, but we've seen women carving out a bigger presence in it—both from an expert POV and a shopping standpoint. While women are buying watches of all shapes and styles, jewelry-like timepieces are especially noteworthy. In 2023, Cartier's newly released Baignoire set on a bangle was the buzziest watch of the year, and we are continuing to see interest in cocktail timepieces grow.
Lavish textiles are adding a sumptuous quality to fashion this spring. Satin is one of the most noteworthy fabrics found everywhere from heels to evening coats. Other luxurious fabrications like organza stole the show, especially at Louise Trotter's debut collection for Carven, where the creative director showcased pieces such as bustier tops and pencil skirts.
This story was published at an earlier date and has since been updated.
Kristen Nichols is the Associate Director, Special Projects at Who What Wear with over a decade of experience in fashion, editorial, and publishing. She oversees luxury and runway content as well as wedding features, and covers fashion within the luxury market, runway reporting, shopping features, trends, and interviews with leading industry experts. She also contributes to podcast recordings, social media, and branded content initiatives. Kristen has worked with brands including Prada, Chanel, Tiffany & Co., and MyTheresa, and rising designers such as Refine and Tove, and her style has been featured in publications including Vogue.com, Vogue France, WWD, and the CFDA. Before Who What Wear, Kristen began her career at Rodarte, where she worked on styling, photo shoots, and runway shows, and at Allure, where she moved into print and digital editorial. She graduated from the University of Southern California, where she studied art history and business, and currently lives in New York.
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