7 Ingredients That Take Years Off Your Skin and Rival Spendy Treatments, Per Derms

Let me be clear: No topical skincare ingredient will completely replicate the effects of an in-office procedure. A professional skin-tightening treatment (e.g. Sofwave, Ultherapy, Fraxel lasers) will be much more targeted than a firming peptide serum—no other way to slice it—but that's not to say you should toss your serums and potions out the window! A solid skincare routine is A+ for delaying skin aging concerns (like sagging, dark spots, et al.) for as long as possible, and for those who do opt for the in-office route, at-home maintenance is crucial in between appointments. Neglect proper skincare, and you'll essentially be throwing money away.

Not to mention, beauty ingredients become more sophisticated every day; while they won't plump your skin as quickly as, say, an injectable, a few standout players have suspiciously similar effects—albeit with more gradual, natural-looking results. I consulted derms on the most popular ones to seek out this fall and winter, which I've outlined just below. Scroll ahead—your glowing skin will thank you for it.

PDRN

"The biggest 'trend' right now is PDRN," shares board-certified dermatologist David Kim, MD, of New York Dermatology Group. "It's been buzzy for more than a year now, and it's hard to miss on IG and TikTok!" We can likely thank celebrities like Kim Kardashian and Jennifer Aniston for the buzz, both of whom reportedly receive PDRN facials on the regular.

What's most important though is that this is not just a trend. It's very effective," Kim adds. For the uninitiated, PDNRN (or polydeoxyribonucleotide) is derived from salmon sperm DNA—hence why you might see "salmon sperm facials" going viral on TikTok—and has been wildly popular in Korea for over a decade. (Let it be known: Salmon sperm is not "new." It's just new to the U.S.) The ingredient has been shown to improve skin elasticity, hydration, and firmness, though these benefits are much stronger in PDRN's injectable form, which isn't FDA-approved for the U.S. quite yet. Either book a trip to Seoul or opt for topical PDRN products, which do have a skin-plumping effect.

"I think PDRN will carry the buzz for quite some time," shares Kim. "It can be used topically in combination with other treatment modalities, like lasers and microneedling, to enhance the delivery without injecting it directly into the skin."

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Exosomes

If you consider yourself well-versed in skincare innovations, chances are you've seen exosomes popping up everywhere—from eye creams and moisturizers to hair and scalp oils. "Exosomes are vesicles secreted by cells that contain growth factors, RNA, mRNA, and other goodies," Geeta Yadav, MD, board-certified dermatologist of Facet Dermatology, previously explained to Who What Wear. "You can think of them almost like email—when cells 'send' exosomes, the material inside the exosomes delivers important messages to cells throughout the body, giving them information and telling them to do things."

Some of those "things" include increased collagen production, faster wound healing, and reduced inflammation. "They can carry anything from soothing ingredients to actives that stimulate repair," adds dermatologist Muneeb Shah, DO. As such, exosome-spiked skincare products have skyrocketed in popularity, but we're only just getting started when it comes to their purported benefits. "Once we start loading them with more innovative actives, I think they could be game-changing," Shah adds.

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Copper Peptides

"Copper peptides are great collagen and elastin stimulators, which means firmer skin and fewer fine lines," Shah notes. Different types of peptides have targeted benefits (some are lauded for skin-tightening, while others are known wound healers), and the copper variety is particularly adept at smoothing lines. "Unfortunately, they’re expensive to formulate with, so not every product actually contains an effective concentration," Shah caveats. Generally, it helps to look for a blue hue in your serums and creams—that's a sign of the copper ion's quality (assuming the product doesn't include any dyes).

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Peptides

Of course, peptides as a whole are showing no signs of slowing down. "Some work as hydrators, some as collagen boosters, and others are too large to do much at all," Shah adds. One of my personal favorites is Argireline (or acetyl hexapeptide), a nifty neurotransmitter peptide that blocks the nerve signal responsible for muscle contractions. (Some even go so far as to say it has Botox-like effects.) "These are much weaker than but work in a similar way to botulinum toxins to weaken the movement of the facial muscles so that expression lines are both improved and prevented," explains board-certified Robyn Gmyrek, MD, once told WWW about the ingredient.

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Ectoin

When it comes to hydrators, ectoin is a very underrated MVP. It's technically an emolient, which means it's super moisturizing, helping to fill in the teeny microcracks in your skin. "Emollients work by helping skin retain moisture, but ectoin also offers protective and anti-inflammatory properties as well as skin-brightening benefits," Yadav previously shared. "This is a great ingredient for those with inflammatory skin conditions, like eczema, to rely on as well as those who have overexfoliated with retinoids. It'd also be a good pick for use in the wintertime when the skin barrier may be imbalanced due to harsh weather conditions." As we dive headfirst into the cozy season, I can't think of a better time to prioritize this soothing, anti-inflammatory wonder.

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Mucin

Ah, mucin—the slimy substance we know and love for smooth, well hydrated skin. But notice how I said mucin, not snail mucin. True, the snail-derived K-beauty hero "improves the 'bounce' of skin," as double board-certified dermatologist Brendan Camp, MD, of MDCS Dermatology once told WWW, but there have been some concerns about ethical sourcing methods over the years. As a result, brands have innovated with plant-based mucin substances, such as prickly pear and wild yam. Both contain a gel-like mucus that helps you achieve a similarly smooth, bright skin texture—take it from my glowing review.

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Spicules

Not a fan of needles? Spicule-laced skincare was basically made for you. Spicules are tiny microspears derived from hydrolyzed sponges that create tiny microchannels in the skin for better product absorption. Essentially, it's like microneedling without the actual needles. Another K-beauty mainstay, the ingredient originated as part of a "liquid microneedling" treatment, but gentler spicule skincare products have been popping up as of late for an at-home option with similar benefits. Note, the serums do come with a slight prickly sensation as you rub them in (that's the microspears at work!), but they shouldn't feel too spicy. Make sure to follow up with an ultra-hydrating, skin-plumping formula to encourage the juiciest results.

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