Exosome Skincare Is Booming—Derms Say It's an Inflammation-Fighting, Collagen-Boosting Superpower

In the world of skincare, it seems there's a new ingredient trending every day. Some are exceptional and can significantly improve the skin both instantaneously and over time. I'm talking about ingredients like mandelic acid, azelaic acid, and ectoin, among others. However, there's one high-efficiency ingredient that's done more for my skin than almost any other: exosomes.

While it sounds like something straight out of a biology class (and, well, it is), this ingredient is booming right now. While they've historically only been found in dermatology and plastic surgery offices, lately, exosome skincare products are everywhere, and collective internet interest continues to rise. Why? Exosomes are an inflammation-fighting, collagen-boosting superpower, and they can take years off the look of skin. Ahead, learn everything there is to know about this exciting ingredient, straight from a dermatologist and an anti-aging specialist.

What Are Exosomes?

According to Geeta Yadav, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Facet Dermatology, exosomes contend with a professional skin treatment, platelet-rich plasma (PRP), for overall efficacy and potency. If PRP sounds familiar, it's probably because it's the basis of the so-called "vampire facial" that went viral a few years ago. PRP is lauded for its ability to rejuvenate the skin. Exosomes are too, but they work differently, and interestingly enough, exosomes are thought to be even more effective.

"Exosomes are vesicles secreted by cells that contain growth factors, RNA, mRNA, and other goodies," Yadav says. "You can think of them almost like email. When cells 'send' exosomes, the material inside the exosomes delivers important messages to cells throughout the body, giving them information and telling them to do things." What kind of things? Good question. It ranges from fighting inflammation to boosting collagen (but more on that in a minute).

The scientific community didn't fully understand exosomes (and their worth) until recently. "Scientists believed exosomes were waste materials, but we now know that their contents are extremely valuable," Yadav says. "The growth factors within exosomes are far more potent than those of platelet-rich plasma."

Charlene DeHaven, MD, is an anti-aging specialist and IS Clinical's clinical director. She says exosomes originate in stem cells (yet another buzzy skincare topic!). The main difference between stem cells and the exosomes they release is delivery potential. "Stem cells are impossible to get into the skin without an incision or injection, whereas exosomes contain smaller molecules that are potentially deliverable," she says. Seeing as the skin barrier excels at keeping things out, this delivery potential is an exciting area of interest.

What Are the Benefits of Exosomes

Still, exosome potential isn't fully understood (at least not yet). "The discussion about exosomes began with stem cell research, is still early, and is being further explored," DeHaven says. "The therapeutic potential of exosomes relates primarily to their anti-inflammatory qualities, which is one of the key mechanisms—perhaps the key mechanism (with the emphasis on 'perhaps')—through which stem cell therapy works."

In other words, the main area of study relates to exosomes' anti-inflammatory properties. "Remember that inflammatory processes drive aging processes," DeHaven says. "Aging is a pro-inflammatory process, as are wrinkles, sunburn, various skin conditions such as acne and rosacea, many in-office treatments, and many other situations in aesthetics. There should be enough inflammation for healing to occur but not an excess that would accelerate aging, cause too much scarring, or cause other complications."

Yadav seconds this, saying more research is needed, but the anti-aging potential could be massive. "We know that they can promote wound healing (including collagen production) and blood flow as well as reduce inflammation," she says. "They're especially beneficial for use post-procedure to help expedite and improve skin recovery. Because they are not cells but material from cells, they're compatible with all individuals. (PRP is cellular material, which is why you cannot use PRP derived from other individuals, as your body could reject it.) Exosomes are compatible with all skin types."

What Are the Potential Downsides?

Since exosome research is still in its infancy, experts aren't certain about how they can or should be used to treat certain skin concerns and/or conditions. What's more, there's some concern over how exosomes are acquired for use in skincare. "There is very limited research on exosomes, and using exosomes to treat anything has not been approved by the FDA," Yadav says. "Though they are largely seen as beneficial, there are some concerns in the medical community about exosomes. One is the source of the exosomes. They're often human-derived, either from mesenchymal stem cells or placental cells. Though these materials are typically lab-purified, there are some individuals who are concerned about the purity of the exosomes—for example, how healthy was the donor providing the exosomes?"

That's not the only issue or concern when it comes to exosomes. "The other and larger concern is about the exosome messenger system. If exosomes are telling the cells in your skin or body to act, what if they interact with a cancerous cell and tell it to proliferate? That's why more research is needed," Yadav says. She doesn't use exosomes in her practice yet, because the products aren't regulated well enough in her professional opinion. "In Europe, exosomes can only be plant-derived for safety concerns, but in North America, this is not the case."

Editor's note: The vast majority of exosome-based skincare products are made with plant-derived exosomes, rather than animal ones.

"There isn't a lot of research yet on topical exosomes and skin cancer specifically—the risk is theoretical. But speaking to exosomes as a whole, there are studies that show exosomes can both exacerbate cancer as well as be a valuable tool as we advance cancer therapeutic methods." To put it simply, we don't know what long-term effects exosomes could pose. Although they demonstrate incredible benefits as far as wound healing and anti-aging effects.

How Often Can They Be Used?

Given the general scarcity of research on exosomes, we recommend talking to your doctor or dermatologist before adding new products to your routine.

Yadav says exosomes are safe for daily use. However—and that's a big however—you can't trust that any old exosome-spiked skincare product will be effective. "Exosomes are very delicate and, in a clinical setting, kept in a freezer until a provider is ready to use them. When seeking out exosome skincare, you'll want to do your research in regard to how the active ingredient is stabilized—using inactive exosomes won't do anything for your skin."

DeHaven agrees, saying, "The use of a skincare product containing exosomes is no assurance of product quality or that the product will deliver the promised results. As with any product, the user should be aware of advertising that seems too good to be true or is not backed by trustworthy documentation. In general, anti-inflammatory skincare products are useful at all ages."

So, unfortunately, at the end of the day, the onus is on the consumer to ensure that the exosomes in a product formula are stable and effective before slathering it on their skin. Some googling might be in order, but a good place to start is shopping from a trusted, science-backed skincare brand.

Oh, and one more thing. Yadav says delivery can still be tricky. "It's also worth noting that when exosomes are used in a clinical setting, they are applied to skin that has been intentionally damaged through laser, microneedling, or other means," she says. "Though exosomes are small, they still do not penetrate the skin easily; you'll get more benefits from exosomes if you apply them to skin that has been 'micro-injured' through microneedling."

The Best Exosome Skincare Products