Like most who have struggled with acne at any point in their life, I had a really hard time finding the right products that worked for me and didn't make things worse. The thing about inflammatory acne (that I've learned through years of trial and error) is that most of the time, it becomes even more irritated by strong retinoids and exfoliants—the things we're often told will clear it. After years of using the wrong treatments, I finally realized that my barrier-damaged skin just wasn't going to get better if I kept going the typical "clearing" route.
Luckily, I recently had the privilege of getting a facial with holistic aesthetician Sonia Vargas who didn't sugarcoat it for me. She finally told me my super active routine was not going to get the job done for my skin. In fact, it was probably making my irritation and inflammation worse. "My typical treatment [for acne] is to use gentle, calming products throughout the session with any sensitized skin or active acne present," she told me. "I work on the nervous system and focus on the lymphatic system as well through different modalities. Most acne sufferers need lots of stimulation of the lymph in order to gently move waste in the tissues. Also, addressing the nervous system is one thing most acne treatments never focus on. This is such an over looked aspect when working with stressed skin."
Honestly, I left Vargas's L.A. studio glowing and it was one of the best facials I've ever had. Vargas uses the best holistic modalities including tuning forks to help reset the energy of your skin. She also recommends a network of alternative doctors, naturopaths, cranial sacral therapists, body workers, and kinesiologists to her clients to treat the source of the issue and not just the skin topically. "It takes a network of practitioners to uncover the root cause of acne and inflammation," she says. "[You] needed calming for your skin not more stimulation. Your skin was a bit reactive, irritated, and a little inflamed."
While it's good to treat the body as a whole, Vargas also recommended a suite of products she has gotten great results with on her acne-prone clients. I've been using her picks for close to a month now and I can already see a positive difference in my skin. Ahead, I'm sharing the whole routine as a PSA for my fellow acne-prone folks who have experienced similar skin frustrations.
The first thing I had to swap out was my cleanser. Cleansers with any type of sulfates (even modified ones) were a no-go for my skin. Even when I used gentler options I would find that my skin would get incredibly dehydrated and more irritated so I switched to this cleanser with a lotion consistency. Vargas introduced me to 302 Skincare and the brand uses alternative cleansing agents that are designed specifically for stressed, compromised skin. It made a world of difference and now I feel so much better about my cleansing routine. It's hydrating and gentle, but is still super effective.
I've always been a huge fan of Marie Veronique's clean products, but had never tried this one until recently. I told Vargas that it's hard for me to find a moisturizer and cleanser that's right for my skin right now because it gets dehydrated so easily. She told me she always recommends this water and oil balancing toner from the brand to her clients that have similar issues.
The way it's just a tall drink of water for my skin! It isn't oily and doesn't leave a heavy film on your skin. It has a watery texture that just melts right in and keeps my skin so hydrated throughout the day. It's a miracle-worker for dehydrated, sensitive, acne-prone skin in my book.
This enzymatic exfoliation mask is the key. Like I mentioned above, my skin doesn't always respond well to chemical exfoliants—even gentle ones. It's a slippery slope and often if I go even a hair too far with them, my breakouts become 10 times worse and more inflamed. Vargas recommended using this a few times a week to exfoliate instead. It utilizes cranberry enzymes to exfoliate the skin and a bit of lactic acid which is both hydrating and gently decongests. My skin has calmed down so much since switching to using this three times a week instead.
The only bummer is that this is a special formula that you can only buy through an aesthetician, but if you're in the L.A. area, Vargas can get it for you.
If you can't get to an Osmosis aesthetician, try this enzyme exfoliating mask from Drmtlgy instead. It contains pumpkin enzymes and gentle physical exfoliants to deep clean the skin.
Vargas also recommended this growth factor serum from the brand to help improve skin damage. My skin has perked up so much since I've been using this. I stopped using stronger actives like vitamin C so I was worried my skin would start to look dull and my dark spots wouldn't improve as much, but that was not the case here. In fact, this serum, with consistent use twice a day, gives your skin a natural-looking glow. It just makes your skin look incredibly healthy since it's powered by over 600 different growth factors, exosomes, and skin peptides.
I know the price tag is a bit steep, but Osmosis products are 100% worth it in my opinion and they're so sensitive-skin friendly. Plus, this is the type of formula that does so much in one that you can streamline your routine, ditching multiple serums in favor of it.
DMK is unfortunately another brand you'll have to get through an aesthetician, but I promise, the products are the industry's best-kept secret. I'd heard so many good things about it and, being the beauty editor I am, was excited that Vargas thought it would be perfect for my skin.
"The DMK Beta Gel formulation contains beta-glucan, a stimulator of the Langerhans cells which initiate the immune and reparative functions of the skin. Beta Gel is an excellent aid in the treatment of traumatized skin, abrasions, damage, oxidative stress, acne, rosacea, or any red and inflamed irritated skin. This serum is actually something I recommend to almost everyone I treat. It's ultra hydrating and healing in so many ways." — Vargas
This super gentle retinal serum from Osmosis has been my other saving grace. I originally tried the brand's Clarify serum first, but my skin didn't react kindly to that so I went with Calm instead. This one is completely irritation-free and only contains lactic acid as an AHA. I alternate between using this three times a week and using the brand's cranberry enzyme mask three times a week. This is the perfect sweet spot for me to keep my skin calm and clear.
I was initially nervous to give DMK's Acu Crème a go when Vargas recommended it because I never know how my skin is going to react to a moisturizer but, holy wow guys. I can now confidently say this is the best cream for acne-prone skin that I've ever used. My pet peeve with most moisturizers designed for acne-prone skin is that they aim to mattify your complexion and I was worried this would do that. Mattifying the skin will usually make the problem worse and just, straight up, doesn't work for skin that's dehydrated. I was concerned this cream might aim to do that, but it doesn't! It provides your skin with the perfect amount of moisture without making your skin feel heavy or greasy but also works perfectly for dehydration. This and Beta Gel will be staples in my routine moving forward.
Vargas also recommended I give Marie Veronique's new sunscreen a go and I love it. It has a thicker consistency, but I love that it doesn't contain a tint like most other mineral sunscreens. Tints tend to rub off on my clothes and I'm not a huge fan of that. The consistency with this one is a dream and it gives your skin a subtle, natural glow that I can't get enough of.
I use this mask a few times a week and put 302 Skincare's Avocado Mask on top so it doesn't dry out your skin (another trick I learned from Vargas). It definitely gets the job done and dries up any active breakouts in a flash. I now fully understand why DMK has such a cult-following amongst aestheticians.
"I also recommend the Acu Masque. The masque is beneficial for problematic skin it eliminates congestion and purifies. It’s healing and soothing especially for inflammation and irritation. It can be used to address bacterial issues with the skin as well. People that suffer from different levels of acne and inflammatory responses do so well with this masque." — Vargas
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