The Best Pieces in My Wardrobe Weren't Found—They Were Made

Elif Studios — (Image credit: Courtesy of @elif.studios)

There is nothing I love more than wearing something that doesn't already exist. Not because I want to be the only person wearing it, but because I love the creative process that comes before it. The truth is, my brain is always creating, ideating, and imagining– and it truly comes alive when I get to express myself through fashion. From the conversations (mostly in the DMs), to the fabric swatches, to the sketches… by the time the piece arrives, I’ve usually already picked out the exact event I am saving it for.

For me, shopping can sometimes feel exhausting, scrolling through the same silhouettes, the same trends, and the same pieces reproduced over and over again. I often find myself aimlessly scrolling and thinking about how I wished a certain piece existed. I don't have a background in fashion design, but one thing I do have is a vision. I usually begin with an idea, whether it is a color I can't stop thinking about, a vintage runway look, or some other detail I wish existed on a piece I've already seen. Then I find the artist/ designer whose work feels like the right fit to bring that idea to life.

Instagram has become my favorite place to discover them. Sometimes I commission a completely new piece; other times I'll start with one of their existing designs and ask if we can reinterpret it. The best part of the entire process is wearing something that feels incredibly personal and one of a kind. Almost without fail, someone asks, "Where is that from?" and instead of naming a retailer, I get to tell the story of the person who made it. From my experience, the pricing ranges by atelier (I have purchased custom items between the range of $300-$3,000)- and I always ask up front before committing to a design.

Kristin Mallison

Kristin is known for her tapestry and needlepoint, and I was instantly captivated by her work. Our first collaboration was a custom pair of pants and corset featuring my pet pig, Stella, which became the beginning of an ongoing creative partnership. For the fabric, Kristin presented several vintage textile options, and we ultimately chose upholstery from an old couch. Because we live in different states, she created a fit pair of pants to my measurements and from there we landed on the perfect silhouette. We've now created four pieces together, each one pushing the idea a little further than the last. We're currently working on something special for the US Open, and I genuinely can't wait for people to see it.

Agro Studio

I discovered Agro Studio after one of their runway collections appeared on my Instagram explore page. Their sculptural corsetry immediately caught my attention. Together we designed a corseted jacket and coordinating dress for a wedding in the South of France. Every appliqué was handcrafted, and just before the pieces were shipped, we decided to add intricate beading. It was one of those last-minute decisions that completely transformed the finished piece.

Elif Studios

My relationship with Elif started differently. I first purchased one of her existing designs and completely fell in love with her work. Elif transforms vintage curtains into clothing, giving forgotten textiles an entirely new life. I came to her with a color I wanted to have in my closet and something in her previous designs in either a silvery grey or warm champagne gold. She sourced several incredible fringed fabrics and I ultimately went with the smokey silvery grey tone. Sometimes the best custom pieces come from trusting the designer's vision as much as your own.

Lion Busch

With Lion Busch, one collaboration became two. The first was a reinterpretation of one of the brand's existing designs in a two tone color story.. The second was an unreleased set featuring dimensional floral button appliqués in the most unexpected yellow-green combination. I immediately knew it had to come home with me, and we created a halter bralette to pair with it.

If you've been sitting on an idea, whether it’s a fabric, a silhouette, a color combination you wish existed– you might just be able to create it.

Espace Meld

I sent them a DM, and almost immediately, we were on a call together. I got to meet the duo behind the brand and shared images from their previous collections that I couldn’t stop thinking about.

What I loved was that I wasn’t asking them to recreate one specific look. Instead, I wanted to pull together different elements of their work- the silhouette of one piece, the necklace detail from another, and the fabric from a different piece in their collection. From there, we started piecing together what would eventually become a two-piece set. After going through fabric swatches, we landed on the final direction and designed a pair of flared lace trousers to complete the look. This one felt especially collaborative- it was less about coming to them with a fully formed idea and more about building it together from the pieces of their world that I already loved. The set is currently being made, and I am very impatiently waiting for it to arrive.

Claudia Li Johnson is a stylist, creative consultant, and co-founder of Vin., a vintage inspired accessories label known for its sculptural brass clutches and conversation starting silhouettes. Based between New York and Boston, she built her platform by sharing her distinctive eye for vintage, uncovering rare finds and niche brands. Her intuitive approach to trend forecasting is why so many turn to her as a trusted point of view. Two notable mentions in her life include her impeccably stylish parents and her pet pig (she is kind of a pig deal!)

Claudia’s handbag brand Vin. has earned international recognition, capturing the attention of editors at Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Town & Country, and Vanity Fair, with celebrities frequently spotted carrying its brass designs.