If ever you feel out of touch with what's cool or sought after in the world of fashion, my best piece of advice is to look at whatever Miu Miu's doing. Trust me—Miuccia Prada knows what the girls want, often before they even know it. And since most of them were sitting front row at today's runway show, one of the last scheduled shows of fashion month, she didn't have to go far to share her latest crop of future viral sensations. Needless to say, now that Miu Miu's S/S 25 collection has made its debut, we already know with 99.99% certainty what pieces will be deemed "cool" come spring 2025.
Hilary Swank, Willem Dafoe, Alexa Chung, and up-and-coming style star Sunday Rose Kidman-Urban (aka Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban's daughter) walked the runway. Gen-Z favorites like Ariana Greenblatt, Nara Smith, and Kiernan Shipka also made their debut. There were 67 looks that will shape the trend landscape for seasons to come: Think suede bags and skirts, sporty jackets, clashing belts, and cutout swimsuits worn as tops. The brand showed at the Palais d’Iéna, in a space reinvented by interdisciplinary Polish artist Goshka Macuga to look like a printing house. I can already see the headlines: "Extra, Extra! Layered camisoles are back for spring!"
Ahead, find every noteworthy moment from Miu Miu's S/S 25 show (and then some).
A Gen Z Front Row
Given that Miu Miu was founded in 1992 with the intention of being a younger, more playful, and affordable version of Prada, it makes sense that season after season, the brand draws in a youthful crowd of buzzy A-listers. This season, we saw an especially Gen Z audience, which included a mix of TikTok sensations like Nara Smith, Alix Earle, and Addison Rae, and Hollywood favorites like Barbie's Ariana Greenblatt and Twisters' Kiernan Shipka. South Korean musician Wonyoung, Chinese actress Liu Haocun, and Presumed Innocent's breakout star Chase Infiniti all attended the show.
WHO: Nara Smith
WHO: Ariana Greenblatt
WHO: Alix Earle
WHO: Addison Rae
WHO: Kiernan Shipka
Start Spreading the News
The S/S 25 collection debuted in a sprawling, industrial space at the Palais d’Iéna in Paris, redesigned to look like a printing house. On the ceiling hung copies of a physical newspaper that was produced by Macuga for Miu Miu, titled The Truthless Times. According to a press release, the newspaper explores "ideas of truth, misinformation, and manipulation." It explains, "The audience is seated within a representation of printing presses—machinery of information, presumed fact—the plurality of elements within the space both proffering tools to dissect and decipher the concept of truth, and underscoring the profusion of information that characterizes contemporary reality." The intention behind this partnership between Macuga and Miu Miu was to investigate vanity, analyzing how women see themselves in the context of modern-day life.
Frazzled Fashions
This investigation into lived experiences and how they impact the way we dress can be seen throughout the S/S 25 collection, starting with the first look, modeled by Kidman-Urban. A simple, white cotton dress, according to a press release, was meant to signify the absolute truth of early youth. "Before dissimulation is learned, each individual is honest to themselves, to their ideals," it stated. "As a reaction to an era of overstimulation and over-information, simplicity in clothing may offer clarity and precision, and serve as an honest frame of character." A partnership with French children's brand Petit Bateau saw Miuccia Prada send recreations of traditional kidswear down the catwalk.
The frazzled piece everyone's talking about on social media comes in the styling, done (as usual) by Lotta Volkova. According to the release, these otherwise understated pieces are worn in "unschooled" manners to represent a hunger for rediscovery. "Sweaters are wrapped into tops, shirts twisted—wrong ways of wearing, to find something new," it stated. The styling may appear to be too much at first, but the longer you digest each look, the more you realize that it's only a sense of unfamiliarity you're experiencing. This explanation is exactly why Miu Miu (and Prada for that matter) is always the brand leading trends, not following them.
Icons on the Runway
Though there were a good amount of traditional Miu Miu models on the catwalk this season, the brand also continued its pursuit to incorporate friends of the house into its show, with Alexa Chung, Cara Delevingne, Amelia Gray, and Hilary Swank all joining Kidman-Urban in the latest spring fashions. Willem Dafoe closed the show, reprising his role as one of Miuccia Prada's most iconic male models. (In 2012, the actor walked the Prada runway in the Italian brand's “Villains” show alongside other on-screen antagonists Adrian Brody and Tim Roth.) "Many actors, used to presenting alternate visions of imaginary realities, here they walk in their own truth," the release stated.
WHO: Sunday Rose Kidman-Urban
WHO: Alexa Chung
WHO: Hilary Swank
WHO: Willem Dafoe
WHO: Cara Delevingne
The It Items
The only thing Miuccia Prada excels at more than kickstarting trends is designing sought-after, viral products, from satin ballet flats to micro-miniskirts. Looking back at the early 2020s, so many of the most prolific fashion items came from her, whether at Miu Miu or Prada. And this season was hardly an off-year for the designer. On the accessories side, the obvious winners were the belts—so many belts—and the bags, which were brown and suede and just what everyone I know has been searching for this season. (If you want one sooner than spring 2025, let me direct you to ISA, Who What Wear's intelligent shopping assistant, who's chronically online and in tune with all the best-in-show suede bags right now.)
A crisp white T-shirt embroidered with Miu Miu's logo on it is sure to become the next Prada or Loewe logo tank top, and elevated swimsuits, similar to ones spotted at Tory Burch's S/S 25 show in New York, will no doubt be spotted all across the fashion capitals next year when the weather heats up, paired with knee-length skirts, tailored trousers, and hot pants. Other highlights included loud-printed outerwear, shrunken track jackets styled unexpectedly with elegant skirts as opposed to equally sporty bottoms, and suede outerwear and skirts. In other words, invest in that suede jacket in your shopping cart right now. It's not going anywhere.
It item: Brown suede East-West bag
It item: White cotton Miu Miu T-shirt
It item: Patterned coat and chain belt
It item: Shrunken track jacket
It item: Brown suede motorcycle jacket
It item: Blue patent-leather skirt and cutout one-piece swimsuit
It item: Camel-colored leather shoulder bag
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