Investment Portfolio is a series where associate director Kristen Nichols takes an in-depth look at the best designer buys and test-drives them, from new seasonal drops to timeless heirloom items.
Prada's S/S 24 collection was set to a soundtrack from Alfred Hitchcock's 1958 film Vertigo. The dramatic, suspenseful music accompanied the cinematic vision of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons as models walked down the runway in frothy organza dresses that cascaded behind them with a wind-like effect. Just as eye-catching were the satin heels paired with the looks. The clothes and shoes—steeped in nostalgia and the bygone glamour of the '50s—set the tone for 2024's return to elegance and opulence that is already defining where fashion is headed this year. It's a major turn in fashion that marks a shift away from oversize proportions and chunky shoes and the the return of refined clothing and sophisticated accessories.
The satin kitten heels on Prada's runway have since carved themselves out as a key buy for 2024. They have landed in the season's biggest editorial shoots, on the hot list from Threads Styling, and in the closets of the best dressed people on the street style scene. Celebrity product sourcer Gab Waller also named them as a key buy for the season. "I originally teased the new Prada satin mules on our TikTok in early January, and the comment section immediately told me that this was a style to watch. 'Need those mules' were the consistent three words across the post," Waller says about the buzzy heels. There are a range of styles, including Mary Jane stilettos and sharply pointed mules, but it is the square-toe kitten heels that have the makings of a future heirloom piece. Ahead, we're taking a closer look at the Prada satin mules, including all of the details to know, thoughts from fashion industry experts, and how to style them.
The moment I first spotted Prada's satin mules when they debuted on the spring/summer 2024 runway at Milan Fashion Week, they won me over, specifically the square-toe kitten-heel version. I have a soft spot for kitten heels since they dominate my day-to-day looks, so I'm perpetually on the lookout for a new pair to add to my closet. I already count several Prada kitten heels in my wardrobe, including a vintage '90s pair and slingbacks from the brand's S/S 22 collection. Both have similar pointed shapes, so I was immediately drawn to the unique square silhouette of the new-season style as well as the throwback '50s design codes.
Taking a closer look at the shoes on the Prada S/S 24 runway, they are finished in beautiful glossy satin and have low kitten heels. With their elegant lines, the shoes were one of the first signs of the shift toward sophisticated fashion that is defining style this year. Prada continues to set the tone for where fashion is headed in a larger sense, so it comes as no surprise that Prada and Simons were among the first designers to usher in this new sense of glamour on the runways.
As soon as the shoes arrived in-store, I went to see and test-drive them in person. The heels were altered from the original runway version in production, transforming the design from simple kitten heels to an architectural shape that is inspired by the iconic Prada triangle logo. Not every color from the runway was produced, including a hot-pink style that was cut, but the mules are available in four colorways: Orange, Fern Green, Tobacco, and Black.
The buzz around Prada has been growing, and that buzz goes beyond a single shopping item, viral social media posts, and conversations within the fashion community. Looking at metrics alone, it's easy to see that Prada is absolutely thriving despite slowdowns in the luxury sphere. According to Business of Fashion, Prada sales grew 12% in 2023, while searches for the brand were up 41%. Prada was named the hottest brand of Q4 2023, according the the Lyst Index. The brand's spring/summer 2024 runway show was also named the number one collection of the season in Vogue Runway's fashion poll. All in all, Prada is in the lead when it comes to directional designs that are setting the tone for where fashion is headed, and its popularity is also translating to sales.
I styled the new-in Prada mules with several outfits. While the mules were paired exclusively with sheer organza dresses on the runway, they have endless styling opportunities IRL. In the window of the SoHo storefront in New York City, I spotted the shoes styled with a knit halterneck top and pleated skirt, which I immediately went in to try out for myself.
I would just as quickly pair the satin heels with jeans and a T-shirt, but in so many ways, this look represents the mood for spring 2024 with the A-line skirt and soft, romantic lines. The shoes themselves are very comfortable and easy to walk in due to the design and their low-to-the-ground 35-millimeter height.
Curious to find out how the shoes are translating across the fashion space, I spoke with industry experts to learn more. Waller, who is known for locating the most difficult-to-find designer pieces, consistently predicts which items will go viral before they do, so her opinion carries a lot of weight. "Teasing and testing demand of a product in this way is something that I will often do, especially prior to an item officially launching," Waller explains. "I knew that we had to jump on this style relatively quickly, and although still a very new style, requests are already flowing in. What's particularly interesting is that the requests aren't coming from a singular region—they're coming in across all countries, from clients in Australia to Europe and beyond. For me, this guarantees that this is and will be a trending style."
Erica Wright of Sourcewhere also shared her insights about how the shoes are taking off this season. "There's been a notable surge in demand for Prada shoes this season, especially for styles that have a more discreet logo placement, like the square-toe loafers and satin heels. The satin mules, in particular, have become a community favorite, with the rich brown hue being the most popular choice," Wright tells Who What Wear. "The style offers a departure from the softer round-toe shapes that dominated the shoe category in recent seasons, such as Mary Janes and ballet pumps. This shift toward square-toe styles reflects a reminiscent nod to Miuccia's late '90s designs."
I also test-drove the cult Prada heels with another look that took inspiration from the runway, adding a belted fawn-brown blazer and sheer orange skirt to offset the black satin heels. The shoes pair particularly well with structured suiting, and the tailored lines of the blazer act as the perfect counterbalance to the softness of the satin heels. After test-driving Prada's satin heels and speaking with experts, one thing is certain—these must-buy shoes are set to be a future heirloom piece.
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