Is Vegan Leather the Future of Fashion? Here's What the Experts Say

Vegan leather has had a major glow-up. Once synonymous with stiff, plasticky fabric, it's now turning heads in the form of apple peels, mushrooms, cactus, and other surprisingly bio-friendly materials. As Gen Z leans into conscious consumerism and demands more accountability from fashion brands, vegan leather is gaining traction not just as an alternative but also as a conscious choice.

Designers are getting creative, shoppers are getting curious, and suddenly, everyone wants to know, Is vegan leather actually better?

The short answer? It depends.

"Think beyond the marketing," says Maya Thabal Herron, a PhD student at Imperial College London with a background in materials science. With the rise of attention on vegan leather, companies and brands have tried their hardest to greenwash their process, selling customers the dream that traditional polyurethane vegan leather is the best option they have. Herron, who runs the TikTok account @materialgirlphd, breaks down materials science for the scroll-happy crowd with high screen time. She puts the vegan leather debate best. "Just because something is labeled as 'vegan' or 'bio-based' doesn't automatically mean it's better for the planet. Sustainability isn't one-size-fits-all. It's context dependent," she adds. "At the end of the day, the most sustainable product is one that's used and loved for a long time, regardless of what it's made from."

Are you curious about what vegan leather really is? Read on to demystify the materials, the marketing, and the truth behind fashion's favorite leather alternative.

What is vegan leather?

In general, vegan leather is a cruelty-free alternative to traditional animal leather and is made without using any animal products. Instead, it's crafted from a variety of synthetic and plant-based materials—such as polyurethane (PU); recycled plastic; and natural fibers like pineapple leaves (Piñatex), mushrooms (mycelium), and cactus. While mimicking the look and feel of real leather, vegan leather may offer a more ethical and, on the surface, sustainable option for conscious consumers in the fashion industry.

Is vegan leather sustainable?

Whether or not vegan leather is sustainable is the million-dollar question. A common misconception is that all vegan leather is inherently eco-friendly, but as Herron points out, vegan leather often comes with its own set of challenges. "Most of the plant-based leathers still require coatings (often PLA or even fossil fuel–derived plastics) to improve water resistance and strength. PLA is a bioplastic, which can degrade over time, but it still complicates the end of life of a product," Herron explains. "While plastic isn't inherently 'evil,' it needs to be used intentionally—especially if it helps extend the lifespan of the item and reduce waste overall."

With greenwashing on the rise among major fashion brands, consumers are left to navigate a flood of complex information. Herron adds, "It's not just about the label [for vegan leathers]; it's about looking at the full picture of how the material is made, used, and disposed of."

"In terms of sustainability, in my opinion, the most promising leathers currently available tend to be those made from waste by-products, like mycelium (fungus-based) leathers, which can be grown on agricultural waste. I've even heard of researchers turning waste like orange peels and banana peels into leathers," Herron says. "That kind of circularity—turning waste into usable materials—is quite exciting."

Is vegan leather expensive?

Compared to traditional animal leather, vegan leather is often more affordable due to the lower cost of raw materials, but prices can still vary widely depending on the brand and production methods. Vegan leather handbags can range from as little as $20 to several thousand dollars, especially when made by contemporary designers. However, it's important to remember that a lower price tag—or the use of vegan leather—doesn't necessarily mean a product is cheaply made, plastic based, or crafted without skill.

"What excites me most is the accessibility that bio-leathers can offer," Herron states. "Traditional leather has long been associated with luxury and high price points, but bio-based options have the potential to make quality, stylish products available to a much wider audience."

What types of vegan leather are there?

Beyond traditional PU-based vegan leather, a wave of innovative alternatives has entered the market in recent years—capturing the attention of conscious consumers. Materials like mushroom leather, apple leather, cactus leather, and other bio-tech textiles are now being used in everything from handbags to footwear, offering stylish and sustainable options.

"What I love most about apple leather is that it proves sustainability and beauty can exist side by side," explains Tyler Ellis, CEO and creative director of her namesake handbag brand. "Crafted from repurposed apple waste, it transforms what was once discarded into something enduring and elegant. Its refined texture and durability make it virtually indistinguishable from traditional leather, allowing me to design pieces that not only embody timeless craftsmanship but also carry a story of responsibility and hope for the future."

Some brands are also rethinking vegan leather entirely, developing proprietary materials that reflect a deeper commitment to both ethics and sustainability. "Not all vegan leathers are created equal—just like how there are vastly differing qualities in real leather products," explains Jenny Lei, founder and designer of Freja. Freja uses a textile called ultrafiber, a waterborne nonwoven fabric distinct from the polyurethane options many others rely on. Its bags are constructed from recycled microfiber sourced from plastic water bottles and coated with a water-based PU that significantly reduces environmental impact. Freja's method uses 95% less water and 55% less energy than traditional polyurethane coatings.

Is vegan leather better than animal leather?

Ultimately, the choice between vegan leather and traditional animal leather is a personal one, as there are pros and cons to both. Some consumers prioritize avoiding animal-based materials altogether, and others may lean toward recycled and secondhand leather products to minimize waste. When it comes to vegan leather alternatives, traditional PU-based options may reduce animal cruelty but can still carry significant environmental concerns due to the production and chemicals made to create them.

For Lei, the meaning of "vegan" goes beyond just materials—it encompasses the entire ethical framework of how her brand's bags are made. "To me, the term 'vegan' goes so much further than being animal-free. It's also our commitment to exceptional materials, safe working conditions, and a slow, thoughtful business model that seeks to avoid all exploitation and give more than we take," she explains. "The term 'luxury,' when applied to leather today, often refers more to its legacy than to ethical or environmental merit. To me, luxury isn't defined by tradition or legacy. It's defined by intention and transparency—intention behind every design and business choice driven by shared values [and] transparency of ingredients, supply chain, and pricing so you know exactly where your piece came from and how it was made."

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