I've Lived With Breakouts for Years—These Are the 21 Products That I Swear By

I’ve spent more than half my life battling breakouts and have come a long way from where I started (acne-ridden teen) thanks to years of product trial and error and a career that helpfully allows me to pick the brains of skincare experts and dermatologists. But no matter how calm and clear my skin appears to be, it flares up once a month without fail, right before my period is due. "This is what’s referred to as hormonal acne, breakouts which commonly occur during a period of hormonal imbalance,” says consultant dermatologist Zainab Laftah. "This is typically seen when there is a surge in androgens (male hormones). Androgens stimulate the oil glands to produce more sebum, resulting in clogged pores and acne.” Androgens often flare up at puberty, during pregnancy, and with menopause, but they also affect skin on a monthly basis, too.

It’s incredibly frustrating if, like me, you’ve got your go-to skincare routine sussed out, you double-cleanse every night, never sleep in your makeup, and are in a committed relationship with at least five face masks. But the (hard) truth is that no skincare products will completely prevent hormonal breakouts from occurring, and there is no face mask that can predict the fluctuations of our hormones or spot treatment to stop spots before we see that telltale redness.

"Typically during a monthly cycle, there is a peak of the female sex hormones (oestrogen and progesterone) during ovulation,” explains Laftah. "Levels of both hormones rapidly fall in the absence of a fertilised egg, resulting in your period. Plus, prior to your period, levels of testosterone (a male hormone) increase, stimulating the sebaceous (oil) glands to produce more sebum, which leads to blocked pores and acne breakouts.” On top of this, our hormone fluctuations can also be impacted by additional factors, including stress, genetics, and lifestyle. "When someone experiences high levels of stress for a prolonged period of time, elevated stress hormones can drive breakout activity and suppress wound healing, meaning breakouts take longer to heal,” explains Victoria Evans, education manager at Dermalogica. "Stress breakouts typically occur along the jawline and on the neck and sometimes around the temples.”

Although it may not be possible to prevent the cause of hormonal breakouts, that doesn’t mean there aren’t tweaks you can make to your skincare routine to help target and combat them as soon as you feel them coming. By targeting the other factors that contribute to breakouts, such as a build-up of dead skin cells, bacteria or excess oil, it’s completely possible to reduce the severity of a flare-up. Over the years, I’ve figured out the products that get to work fast for maximum impact with minimal effort required. Keep scrolling to discover the best treatments for hormonal acne that I’ve tried.

1. Spot Treatments

Targeted spot treatments are designed to be applied to individual breakouts rather than all over. They’re typically the quickest way to take down a spot once you feel or see it appear. Both Laftah and Evans recommend looking out for spot treatments containing salicylic acid. "Salicylic acid is oil soluble thus able to penetrate deeply into the pores to breakdown bonds between the dead skin cells and oils,” explains Laftah. Out of the hundreds of spot treatments I’ve tried over the years, these are the most effective.

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2. Face Masks

They may not be a daily staple in the same way a cleanser or sunscreen is, but face masks are one of the best ways to target both new and existing breakouts with fast-acting, hardworking ingredients. If you have acne-prone skin you’ll know that there is an overwhelming amount of face mask offerings on the market, so I’ve narrowed it down to my top four.

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3. Exfoliants

"It can be helpful to track your cycle and understand the ebb and flow of your hormones, then record your symptoms, both physical, emotional, and your skin responses,” says Evans. "Once you know when in your cycle you see certain changes, you can adapt your regimen and lifestyle to pre-empt and reduce them, such as regular gentle exfoliation to keep skin clean and clear.” Acid-based chemical exfoliants will also help to fade pigmentation from leftover breakouts and will improve skin texture. But remember: Over-exfoliating can cause irritation. If you’re new to acids, start off using them once or twice a week, increasing usage when build-up occurs in the week before your period is due.

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4. Toners

I know that some toners might seem like nothing more than bottles of fancy water, but this is not a category to overlook, especially if your breakouts are inflamed and painful. For me, the soothing ingredients and refreshing application of a face mist are always a welcome relief when my spots feel sore to touch. 

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4. Serums

One of the most important steps in any skincare routine, serums are the best opportunity you have to target your skin concerns with a tailored blend of potent ingredients. For both reducing and treating breakouts, Laftah recommends active ingredients like retinoids and salicylic acid.

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5. Moisturisers

Finding a moisturiser that works for breakout-prone skin is no easy task, but it’s important to keep skin hydrated in order to maintain good skin health. The healthier skin is, the better it’s able to defend the skin from external aggressors (like bacteria) and heal breakouts and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

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6. Tools

Certain skincare tools should be left to the pros, but there are a few DIY gadgets that come derm-approved for at-home use.

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Next Up: I Have Pigmentation, and I Swear By This New Serum for Even, Glowing Skin