The year was 2005. I was 10 years old, and I was raiding my mom's bathroom cabinet. I was looking through her skincare and makeup products, which seemed so fancy and foreign to me at the time. I had one goal—to steal a swipe of lipstick or a finger of face cream to pair with the size-eight heels I'd taken from her closet. My little feet were swimming in them, but I wanted to walk them across the brick hearth of the fireplace to hear the creamy clicking sound they made. If I wanted to look and feel the part—like a mature, working woman—I needed at least one beauty product.
I sorted through the Mary Kay lipsticks and drugstore face creams until I found a round, amber bottle. It was my mom's perfume, a warm, sophisticated scent that I loved. I took a stealthy spritz to my wrist and clomped out of the bathroom to play.
It wasn't until years later that I learned exactly which perfume it was. After asking my mom and doing a little internet research, I discovered it was Chloé's original 1974 Eau de Toilette (even though the particular bottle she had was probably purchased in the '90s). This fragrance was launched when Karl Lagerfeld was the design house's creative director. It featured notes of bergamot, lily of the valley, honeysuckle, orange flower—and most notably—tuberose.
The original eau de toilette I bought before it was discontinued.
I was completely entranced by it and would continue to steal spritzes throughout my adolescence. When I turned 16, I knew it was time I bought myself a bottle lest the brand discontinued it. And I'm so glad I did. These days, you can't find it anywhere but eBay, where it's still being sold for $150+. I rarely wear it anymore but take a sniff when I need some comfort and nostalgia.
Now, as a full-fledged beauty editor, I collect tuberose perfumes like it's my job, which, in a way, it is. Some people may call it a "grandma" scent, but I disagree. To me, it's warm, elegant, and timeless. And since tuberose blooms at night, releasing its intoxicating scent into the air after dark, I associate it with mystery, sensuality, and seduction. In short, I think tuberose deserves way more credit than it gets. So I decided to share some of my favorite tuberose-centric scents, as well as some info on what makes tuberose so special, according to DSM-Firmenich perfumer Bérénice Watteau.
Where does tuberose come from, and how is it extracted for use in perfume?
"Tuberose is a perennial plant related to agave, native to Mexico, and has been distilled for perfumery since the 17th century when the flower was first transported to Europe," Watteau explains. "In India and Bangladesh, they are widely used to make flower garlands, used in religious ceremonies, or as wedding ornaments."
"The flower buds are gathered and collected by hand. They're extracted with a volatile solvent that yields the tuberose concrete. A final process of purification is applied to obtain the absolute that is used in the perfume creation."
What makes it special?
"During the Renaissance in Italy, it was forbidden for unmarried women to go walking into tuberose gardens. The flower is a night-blooming plant, and its smell was said to be narcotic and could bewitch men with its erotic nuance. The flower has a unique personality. It brings a strong signature to any fragrance— volume, creaminess, and presence. This flower has an inequivalent texture and bloom."
As a perfumer, how would you describe tuberose to someone who's unfamiliar?
"This is a unique flower, creamy, thick, intense, captivating, narcotic, feminine, and opulent," Watteau says. "It's one of the most sensual flowers. It's considered a white flower and has a strong solar petal-y effect that can remind a bit of gardenia or monoi."
My All-Time Favorite Tuberose Fragrance
This is the brand's new, more modern take on the original 1974 fragrance. Not only is the bottle statuesque and vanity-worthy, but the scent inside is strikingly similar to the original. It centers on the creamy, velvety, and honeyed scent of tuberose. It's soft, traditionally feminine, and feels very French. I'm utterly obsessed with it.
12 Other Tuberose Fragrances I Love
Fragrance notes: tuberose, jasmine, orange flower, and vetiver
Reviewers say this is the perfect perfume for people who usually avoid florals. The combo of white flowers mixed with earthy vetiver makes for a sophisticated (and unique!) take on a traditional floral scent. It's complex and expertly crafted, just like all of the Henry Rose perfumes I've tried.
Fragrance notes: tuberose, angelica flower, amber wood
The brand describes this scent as "voluptuous and sumptuous," and I agree. It has all of the luxurious sophistication of tuberose with a touch of a green, herby scent from the angelica flower. Add warming amber into the mix, and it's pretty much the definition of an elegant perfume.
Fragrance notes: tuberose, blood orange, cardamom, orange flower, moonflower, night-blooming jasmine, moss, musk, and patchouli
Inspired by the night-blooming flowers of the Hollywood Hills, this fragrance is intoxicating and equal parts floral and earthy. It reminds me of the many late nights I spent in West Hollywood in my early 20s.
Fragrance notes: tuberose absolute, India Orpur, Szechuan peppercorn, and suede accord
Another personal favorite, this Tom Ford scent is as luxe as any other tuberose perfume on the market. It's intended to smell sensual and intoxicating, and it does so with the addition of earthy Orpur (essential oil of vetiver), spicy peppercorn, and soft suede accord.
Fragrance notes: tuberose, rangoon creeper, and jasmine bud
A true, classic floral, this is a staple in my fragrance wardrobe. It lets the creamy, warm, and sophisticated note of tuberose shine without being too strong or overwhelming. "Tuberose flower is strong and can be a bit intense for some people," Watteau says. "Gucci Bloom is a light tuberose, still recognizable but fresher, blooming, sunny, and luminous. Easy to wear for everyday life."
Fragrance notes: tuberose, ylang ylang, and jasmine
Don't sleep on Gucci's Bloom Profumo di Fiori. This iteration works on two levels. First, if you're a lover of true floral scents, wear it alone because you'll find it alluring as is. Second, if you want to lighten up another woody or earthy scent, layer it on top. It will immediately lend it a timeless and traditionally feminine quality.
Fragrance notes: tuberose, orange blossom, and vanilla
If you want in on the tuberose action, but you're wary of strong, heady scents, this is my suggestion for you. Yes, there's a note of tuberose that comes shining through, but the freshness of the orange blossom and the sweetness of the vanilla lighten it up. It's the perfect daytime perfume.
Fragrance notes: tuberose, orange blossom, and jasmine
Parisian fragrance house Diptyque is an expert at creating timeless and sophisticated scents, so it's no surprise it uses tuberose in this one. It's inspired by the Haiphong market in Vietnam, where tuberose flowers are wrapped up with jasmine and ylang-ylang to be used as offerings. It's supposed to invoke sundown on a warm night.
Fragrance notes: tuberose absolute, jasmine absolute, orange blossom absolute, melon, and white musk
I came across this fragrance as a young beauty writer. I overheard a group of editors waxing poetic about the rich, sultry scent, and I couldn't help but take note. I know many people who describe this as "one of the sexiest perfumes ever created." It's even a favorite of Watteau, who says it's, "Rich, so creamy, opulent, ultra feminine, and with a strong signature."
Fragrance notes: tuberose, ginger, and sandalwood
"I also like Twilly from Hermès," Watteau says. It's "a unique combination of tuberose, ginger, and sandalwood that is quite modern and a different interpretation of the tuberose. I like the contrast between the creaminess of the tuberose and sandalwood with the ginger's fizziness."
Fragrance notes: tuberose, neroli, orange flower, and jasmine
This tuberose fragrance is lighter and fresher than most, which is why it reminds me of Armani Beauty's My Way Eau de Parfum. It's inspired by "the first pink rays of dawn" reaching the tuberose fields of India. Notes of neroli, orange flowers, and jasmine bring a youthful sort of clearness to the scent. It gives me daytime vibes.
Fragrance notes: tuberose, amber, sandalwood
Then, there's Aerin Tuberose Le Soir Parfum. Translating from French to English as "evening," this one is inspired by tuberose flowers in full bloom, harvested in the setting sunlight. As you can imagine, it's richer and deeper than the Le Jour iteration.
Fragrance notes: tuberose, orange blossom, osmanthus
For a fruity spin on traditional tuberose, reach for this perfume from Kilian. The iconic note in question is blended with orange blossom and osmanthus (a flowering plant that smells like a mix between honey and apricot). The resulting fragrance is juicy, sweet, and sophisticated all at once.
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