8 Leading Trends From London Fashion Week to Have on Your Radar

And just like that, London Fashion Week is over for another season. Stylish types descended on the capital for five days of shows, which included a long-awaited Burberry revival helmed by Daniel Lee, models that were accompanied by adorable tots as they walked down a literal bed of roses at Susan Fang, and a very sleek London Fashion Week debut from Instagram favourite, Tove. After the effects of Covid and a season that fall in the official period of mourning after the Queen's death, suffice it to say that London Fashion Week had somewhat lost its spark over the las few years. But, let it be known, that February 2023 is when it found it once more. Even the typically questionable London weather couldn't dampen our spirits, as the entire Who What Wear team turned out in force to attended every show they could (you mightn't know this, but, these days, the shows are held in unique locations across the city, with timings often overlapping, so it really does take a village to get to them all—huge thanks goes out to The Laslett for hosting us in a central location).

Now that we've had a moment to compare notes and talk about the incredible catwalk creations that we each witnessed, we've been able to determine that, across well over a hundred shows, presentations, and events, that there are eight key trend takeaways to consider. That's right; eight. How's that for an edit? Of course, there will be more to feast your eyes on when it comes to compiling the autumn/winter 2023 version of our bumper trend report (which is coming your way very soon) but, for now, these are the leading London Fashion Week trends to know for autumn. Scroll on to see them. 

1. Simple Dresses


(Image credit: Courtesy of Tove, Christopher Kane / Eudon Choi via Getty Images)

Quiet luxury is a trend we've seen resonating for the past few years, and its effects could definitely be felt on the runways. Of course, there was big main character energy elsewhere with total show-off clothes, but there was an undeniable undercurrent of simple but elevated designs. From Tove to Eudon Choi to Christopher Kane (whose LFW show was anything but "safe"), we spotted perfectly-executed sheaths and column gowns. 

Shop the Trend

2. In the Shadows


(Image credit: Erdem, Dilara Findikoglu via Getty Images / Courtesy of David Koma)

I'm usually reluctant to bundle different aesthetics together but, in the interest of time-saving and concise editing, indulge me. Of course, we're talking about autumn/winter, and the palettes across the board reflect that, but, if nothing else, this season was a love letter to black and all the things that happen in the shadows. BDSM was a recurring theme across a multitude of catwalks, though perhaps it is best represented in David Koma's latex-lathered collection. Thigh-high boots, bra tops, safety pins holding together teeny skirts and gaping tops; sex is woven throughout the collections. In tandem there was what seems like a homage to Wednesday Addams, for reasons which I think are quite obvious. Erdem and Bora Aksu both created dresses and coats that we'd very much like to see costume designer and long-time Tim Burton collaborator, Colleen Atwood, pick up for season two. 

Shop the Trend

3. Mad Motifs


(Image credit: Courtesy of Christopher Kane / JW Anderson via Getty Images)

We heard it before we saw it; the chirping of chicks that reverberated around the location on the northern fringes of London in which Christopher Kane held its show. Then, turning a corner, we saw it; a dress adorned with a repeat-motif of baby chicks. This set the tone for what would be two more interesting prints at Kane; the brand's now Instagram-famous piglet dress and one, perhaps more subdued than its contemporaries, covered with rats. Bonkers and brilliant; we'd expect nothing less. However, this affinity for mad motifs continued across the LFW spectrum, with duck prints at Daniel Lee's reimagined Burberry and JW Anderson exploring ways to wear a Tesco shopper.

Shop the Trend

4. In Knots


(Image credit: Courtesy of Simone Rocha, Richard Quinn, Huishan Zhang)

When comparing the last few seasons with one another, surface adornments have either been non-existent, with sheer fabrics that showcase what you have underneath serving as a sort of adornment in their own right, or they've been heavily crystallised; everything from dresses to boots to bags to tops have been smattered in rhinestones as our appetite for the fanciful peaked post-lockdown. This season, however, things have quietened, but only slightly. The new details to note came by way of pretty knots and bows, with doll-like and debutant-style dresses giving the collections a dress-up-like quality. Even as something of a minimalist, I myself find this too sweet to resist. 

Shop the Trend

5. Dash of Saffron


(Image credit: Courtesy of David Koma / Eudon Choi and Bora Aksu via Getty Images)

A key trend in the spring/summer 2023 collections, the recent runways confirmed that designers aren't through with their exploration of siren saffron. This is good news if you've already bought into the trend upon our advice this season, as it's now clear this is a colour we'll be wearing well into 2024, preferably head-to-toe, as dictated at David Koma, Eudon Choi, and Bora Aksu. 

Shop the Trend

6. Below Deck


(Image credit: SS Daley via Getty Images / Courtesy of Simone Rocha, Paul & Joe )

Nautical is a trend that we usually see resurge in the spring, but London Fashion Week designers are never ones to play by the rules. From layers of stripes at SS Daley (who knew Sir Ian McKellen looked so good in a sailor cap) to jaunty neckties and cute collars at Simone Rocha and Paul & Joe respectively, it's time to start practising your knots. 

Shop the Trend

7. Business Casual


(Image credit: Courtesy of Tove / Eudon Choi, Emilia Wickstead via Getty Images)

You've told us how into your workwear you are this season, as our articles on the subject are some of our most-clicked. And it would seem that designers are also tapping into our desire to look the professional part, with many building their collections upon tailoring and the foundations of officewear, albeit with elevated interpretations. Blazers with intricate clasps, suiting with spliced hems, and dresses layered with cutout knits were just some of the outfits we'd like to copy and paste onto ourselves Monday to Friday. Even Jakke, a label known for its faux fur, held its presentation in an '80s-style office, which was perhaps one of the most prevalent moments from LFW on social media. 

Shop the Trend

8. Up the Volume


(Image credit: Roksanda via Getty Images / Courtesy of Christopher Kane, Molly Goddard)

From full-on ruffle bustles at Christopher Kane to the dramatic shapes at Roksanda, finished with froths of tulle at Molly Goddard, there was no shortage of fabric on the autumn/winter 2023 runway. Shape will be a key player for the season ahead, so embrace it. Look for unexpected ways to channel volume (might I bring your attention to the bustles at Christopher Kane once more) and you'll remain ahead of the curve. 

Shop the Trend

Next Up, Spring/Summer 2023 Fashion Trends: 21 Expert-Approved Looks You Need to See

Maxine Eggenberger
Deputy Editor

Maxine Eggenberger is Who What Wear UK’s deputy editor and has over thirteen years of experience in fashion journalism. She been creating engaging and elevated style content specifically for Who What Wear UK since 2018, covering runway reports, emerging trends, long-form features, self-styled shopping stories and columns, including her edit of the best new-in buys. She ensures the highest editorial standards are met across the site, leads the editorial team in their SEO strategy and keyword planning, works closely with the beauty team on content initiatives, represents the brand at industry events, and regularly contributes to social media, including her own Who What Wear UK TikTok franchise, French Style Fridays. Previously, Maxine appeared on ITV's This Morning in her own fashion segment and has interviewed countless celebrities—everyone from Victoria Beckham to Oscar winner Lupita Nyong’o.

Prior to Who What Wear UK, Maxine’s career began when, after completing her first-ever internship at Look magazine, she was offered a position on the brand's fashion desk. She accepted, leaving university a year early in the process. Her passion and natural talent for writing and styling meant she swiftly rose through the ranks to become the title's fashion news and commercial content editor, with a stint as InStyle.co.uk’s fashion and beauty writer along the way. She later served as Look’s acting Editor in Chief, overseeing both print and digital, before embarking on a successful freelance career, working with Grazia, The Pool, and Marie Claire amongst others.

Maxine is based remotely from her countryside home near Edinburgh where she spends her downtime renovating her house, walking her dogs, hosting friends and trying to master the art of making Old Fashioned cocktails.