6 Designers From London Fashion Week You Should Know, According to An Expert

It’s official, London Fashion Week has come to an end, the spring/summer 2027 shows have been presented, and I haven’t stopped thinking about them since. While Laura Weir lures the heavyweights of British fashion back to home turf as a part of the British Fashion Council’s greater plan to restore London Fashion Week as a must-attend affair, something else has been bubbling under the surface. This season boasted a sea of debuts, and emerging talents finding their feet and getting people talking. London has always been an incubator for out-of-the-box designers; we have some of the most famed fashion schools in the world with graduate shows that capture the attention of the industry. Between London’s taste for disruption and support such as Fashion East and NEWGEN, it’s no surprise that the smaller designers on schedule are able to pull big crowds. We don’t underestimate younger brands here, we embrace them. Here are some brands to pay attention to for SS/27.

6 Emerging Designers From London Fashion Week SS/27 You Need to Know

Agro Studio

Last season was my first Agro Studio show and their first in the official schedule. The collection was moody: a throw together of Leather Daddies, Wuthering Heights, shiny tracksuits, heritage outerwear and the perfect party girl gowns. This season they leaned into couture techniques for a collection titled ‘Glass Body’ which was a study on glass—not just as a material—but as a vessel for light refractions and transparency. Purple acted as a throughline and not just because it’s an ‘It-colour’, but because purple is actually a trick of the light. Outside of violet, purple only exists because of our brains bending the linear light spectrum between red and blue. Backstage the Agro boys described their chosen aesthetic this season as ‘soft club’, which explains the finale soundtrack where Kylie’s Slow was blasted into the Collins Music Hall as the looks received rapturous applause.

Goyagoma

Traicelene Pratt is a name that’s been gaining traction since last season. Pratt is the mind behind Fashion East brand, Goyagoma, which is quickly becoming known for its luxuriously cool outerwear. Even for SS/27 Pratt bestowed one fab coat on us for the final look: A plush, long sheepskin with a voluminous, A-line skirt. Other standout moments from the collection full of elevated, every day pieces were floor length, easy gowns adorned with long, beaded belts. One in green, one in white and quite frankly if you’re reading this as a bride it’s a dress you should consider.

Giu Rosa

If Conner Ives' offering in NY was the Prada, Giu Rosa would be the rebellious little Miu Miu sister. Those same acidic, spring brights took centre stage but the flirty dresses accommodate bare-midriffs and the same peaches and yellows also made an appearance on hair that belonged to last night. The V-neck knits paired with eccentric skirts was a great prequel for the happenings in Milan. Giu Rosa’s ‘Hi, Society’ mantra evokes a gauche perspective on the lavish lifestyles of the privileged few. The looks dismantle expectation and capture that adolescent attraction to anarchy that we often lose along the way. I want to be a Giu Rosa girl!

Liza Keane

I walked into Liza Keane with zero expectations. It was Keane’s debut and I went in blind. Post-show I only had two words: Brutalist Baptism. The show began with men in their drawers painted grey, climbing onto cement blocks and becoming human-scaffolding to hold up lighting and what would become a structure containing water that models passed under and emerged from drenched. The looks were apocalyptic battle dress. Moulded black leather, clear and abstracted latex and all-consuming hoods. For accessories we saw deep bags for carrying arrows and matte motorbike helmets. Imagine if the rapture began during a weekend at Berghain.

Sol Hansdottir

I got to visit Sol’s studio a few days before her on-schedule presentation and she explained that whilst she loved complex pattern-making she was very aware that her clothes had been mostly used for performances, red carpets and editorials. For SS/27 Hansdottir’s driving force was to make ‘clothes to wear to Tesco’. The collection had these open-backed skirts that revealed capris which became a motif. Models dressed themselves as they walked, adding little tops that tied at the back over their baggy tees. Hansdottir's efforts to show an effortless look came through with that live demonstration. Things to throw on as you walk out the door, without sacrificing her creativity.

Francesca Lake

Francesca Lake held a presentation that was a depiction of Jamaican culture that felt like the most clear cut exploration I’ve seen in a while. To be clear, I am not Jamaican, but I am Nevisian and the references to the Bull used in Mas (rooted in Nevisian folklore) were not lost on me. The collection, named ‘Wake The Town’ leans into the idea of procession, masquerade and wake to show a nuance of Black pride and audactity. The looks themselves fused the old with the new creating its own identity. The shoes were Manolo, the poetry was Patois and the collection was a success.