This New Perfume Brand Is Giving My Byredo Favourites a Run for Their Money
I am a total sucker for perfume. I know it, everyone who knows me knows it, and everyone who reads my reviews knows it, too. While this might sound like a totally normal statement for a beauty editor to make, in my case, things are particularly severe. I own nearly 100 bottles of the stuff. And while I don't (and wouldn't) wear all of them, I couldn't possibly bring myself to part with a single one. You see, I surround myself with fragrances all day long, so I appreciate great perfumes so much that, even when they don't appeal to my personal tastes, I like to keep them and smell them from time to time.
To me, a great perfume (whether it's citrusy, woody, or sweet) is one that evokes emotion. It might make you want to scrunch your face up in a tight ball, but if a perfume gets an overwhelming response out of you, I think it's doing the right job. The very best perfumes make you feel something. And it's for this reason that I don't give time to perfumes that champion specific notes—I want my perfume to swaddle me up in a blanket of nostalgia and sentiment. So when I first heard about the new kid on the block, Phlur, I was intrigued.
I stumbled across Phlur on TikTok when U.S. creator Mikayla Nogueira went viral after describing the brand's Missing Person Eau de Parfum as "like a person that you love and that you miss." Within five hours, the perfume had sold out and racked up a a hefty waiting list. Now that is a perfume that evokes emotion. I had to try and get my hands on it. Sadly, Phlur wasn't available on British shores.
But I have some news: It's finally here. It launches exclusively in Selfridges this week (it will be in store from 3 October), and I have managed to get my mitts on the entire collection. Founded by entrepreneur and influencer Chriselle Lim, Phlur champions fragrances that have been specially crafted and blended to evoke intimate memories, tell a story and communicate a specific mood. While not a perfumer herself, Lim has enlisted the help of superstar perfumers to create each scent. I'm talking the noses behind Le Labo Santal 33, Byredo Gypsy Water and Glossier You, to name just a few.
Miranda Kerr is a fan of Phlur fragrances.
What's shocking is that, after snagging all of Phlur's fragrances, I want to keep every single one—all nine of them. And I actually want to wear every single one. The bottles are understated and chic, giving off slightly more colourful Byredo vibes, which is something I want to touch upon while we're here. Despite the fact that I'm not a daily wearer of Byredo (I keep Blanche, De Los Santos, Open Sky, Violet Haze, Gypsy Water and Mojave Ghost in my collection), the brand's ability to evoke emotion and memory through scent really has set a precedent for how a great perfume should be crafted. And while I fully appreciate every single Byredo perfume out there, I can't say I'd wear all of them. In fact, I wouldn't wear every fragrance from any perfume brand—except for Phlur.
If, like me, you've also found yourself intrigued by Phlur's new presence in the UK beauty world, keep scrolling for a very honest review of each of its perfumes.
1. Phlur Missing Person Eau de Parfum
Key notes: skin musk, bergamot nectar, sheer jasmine, fresh cyclamen, neroli blossom, orange flower, sandalwood Australia oil, blonde wood, white musk
Perfumer: Constance Georges-Picot, known for La Prairie Life Threads
This is the one that started it all. I'm going to put it out there and say this is my least favourite Phlur fragrance. It's not that it's not stunning. It's just a little too soft and subtle for me. It's the non-perfume-wearer's perfume. It's sweet and skin-like, reminiscent of, well, a person you miss. While most fragrances of this ilk might smell like vanilla and remind you of warm cashmere blankets, Missing Person is all human. Rather than being gimmicky, it really is like burying your nose into the neck of your loved one after a long day without them, acting as a safe, comforting delight. It's barely there, but maybe that's the beauty of it.
2. Phlur Phloria Eau de Parfum
Key notes: Italian bergamot, rose, pink pepper, patchouli, sandalwood
Perfumer: Nathalie Benareau, known for Victoria's Secret Bare
One whiff of this and I'm a child, lazing around the flower beds under the summer sun while my mum carefully prunes the garden. It's fresh and carefree but delightfully intense. With a zingy hit of nose-tickling pink pepper, it's invigorating enough to unleash the childish play in anyone. Améline proves that, while Phlur can branch out into a variety of fragrance families, the brand manages to add a familiar human element to each of its creations.
3. Phlur Not Your Baby Eau de Parfum
Key notes: cardamom, bergamot, mimosa, violet, vanilla milk, sandalwood, tonka beans
Perfumer: Jerome Epinette, known for Byredo Gypsy Water, Byredo Velvet Haze, & Other Stories fragrances, Oribe Cote d'Azur
For me, Not Your Baby is the standout number in Phlur's lineup. While it's not my favourite of the bunch, it's mouthwatering sweetness has my soul melting into the floor. On first spritz, it's childlike and sweet, but before you even have a second to process what's happening, it's warm and spicy, like a sticky pain au raisin that's just been pulled from the oven. And despite the fact that all of this sounds like a lot, I can assure you it's refreshingly wearable and non-imposing.
4. Phlur Phloria Eau de Parfum
Key notes: bergamot, lemon, wet greens, cyclamen, ylang essential oil, golden gardenia, jasmine sambac absolute, tuberose, vanilla, skin musk, sandalwood, ambrox, cedarwood
Perfumer: Frank Voelkl, known for Le Labo Santal 33 and Glossier You
When I first smelled Phloria, I had to take a moment to myself. I really don't like the tendency to dramatise reactions when writing about fragrances, but this is true. It takes me back to childhood holidays. If I close my eyes, I'm floating carelessly on a rubber ring, gazing at the blossoming flowers in the trees above and letting my fingers trickle over the top of the water while the poolside people around me mist themselves with tanning oils. It's bliss.
5. Phlur Hanami Eau de Parfum
Key notes: fig, bergamot, hazelnut, white florals, sandalwood, vetiver, musk
Perfumer Nathalie Benareau, known for Victoria's Secret Bare
If I had to choose a favourite Phlur perfume, Hanami would take the medal. It's sticky, warm and citrusy at first (it smells undeniably expensive), but it soon transforms into a sweet envelope of snuggly comfort. Hanami is the familiar hug I'm itching to jump into when I'm five minutes away from home after a stressful day of holding back tears. It's a haven.
6. Phlur Somebody Wood Eau de Parfum
Key notes: bergamot, lemon, jasmine, saffron, cyclamen, sandalwood, vanilla musk, amber, moss, cedarwood
Perfumer: Robert Gaudelli
The latest addition to Phlur's perfume family, Somebody Wood is a truly magnificent woody concoction. I'd say it's the least emotive, but that doesn't mean somebody else won't find it memory-evoking. It's spicy, filled with bone-warming heat and deeply woody, like stepping into a pub after a particularly crisp winter's walk with open fires crackling away in every corner.
7. Phlur Sandara Eau de Parfum
Key notes: timut pepper, forest air, violet, green tea, sandalwood, cedar, patchouli, oakmoss
Perfumer: Gino Percontino, known for Hollister Free Wave and Banana Republic Vintage Green
Sandara is the most wearable perfume of the bunch. I think you'd struggle to find someone who doesn't love it. It's sense-clearing and fresh but not in a mossy, forest-walk way. Instead, it's green and floral. Most of all, though, it smells expensive. If Sandara was a spa, it would be a hill-top oasis at the Four Seasons.
8. Phlur Apricot Privée Eau de Parfum
Key notes: apricot, plum, cardamom, jasmine absolute, peony, agarwood, tonka beans, sandalwood, labdanum
Perfumer: Jerome Epinette, known for Byredo Gypsy Water, Byredo Velvet Haze, & Other Stories fragrances, Oribe Cote d'Azur
Don't be put off by the premise of apricot in the name of this perfume if apricot isn't your thing. Instead of being juicy and sweet, Apricot Privée is fruity and spicy like baked plums bubbling away in an AGA cooker and mulled wine being stirred on the stove. Unlike other scents of equally warming delight, it's not headache-inducing or attention-seeking, sitting instead like a veil of spicy, familiar comfort on the skin.
9. Phlur Lost Cause Eau de Parfum
Key notes: Italian bergamot, cassis leaves, crisp apple, rhubarb, fresh freesia, jasmine, lily of the valley, maté absolute, orris concentrate, vanilla orchid
Perfumer: Gil Clavien, known for Boy Smells Flor de la Virgen
Worlds away from anything else Phlur has created, Lost Cause is crisp, marine-like and totally unique. Far from your standard rain-like smell, it's sweet, zingy and means business. It's the sort of perfume that will have people chasing you down the street after it. If I had to choose one Phlur perfume to wear every day, Lost Cause would be it.
Next up, these are the best perfumes of 2022, according to beauty experts.
Shannon Lawlor is a renowned beauty journalist and has contributed to Who What Wear’s beauty content since 2020. As a leading beauty editor, expert and brand consultant, she has over eight years of experience working for some of the industry’s most esteemed titles, including Who What Wear (of course), Glamour UK, Stylist, Refinery29 and Fabulous. Having also worked behind the scenes with some of the industry’s biggest brands and retailers, Shannon has a unique insight into what people really want from their beauty routines. Understanding that beauty lovers seek honest, open and responsible advice, she has it made her mission to demystify the intimidating world of beauty, taking a no-frills approach to the most relatable topics. While Shannon is the first to admit she doesn’t hold the answer to every beauty question out there, she is dedicated to sharing her expert insights in a bid to help. As a self-proclaimed lazy girl, Shannon has an affinity for easy-to-use, foolproof beauty products and has made it her mission to scope out the best of the best. When she’s not working, Shannon is likely soaking in the bath or giving no-holds-barred beauty reviews on Instagram from her bathroom floor.