Phoebe Philo makes people feel things, so the news that she is launching a brand under her own name in 2022 sent shock waves through the fashion world in the best possible way. She defined what modern dressing looked like with a sense of minimal sophistication that can still be seen today, and few designers have had an impact on fashion the way that Philo has—perhaps evident most clearly after her departure from Céline in 2017.
Who What Wear editor Anna LaPlaca penned a story about how the creative director’s tenure at the French fashion house made her believe in fashion. “I remember seeing how the models glided down the S/S 13 runway in crisply pleated trousers that pooled around their feet,” LaPlaca wrote, “and thinking to myself, Whoever brought this to life understands me.” This sentiment—a sense that Philo understands women and the clothes they want to wear—was one shared by many, and fashion felt her absence immediately. An Instagram account with the handle @oldceline soon launched chronicling Philo’s years at the brand, fashion insiders began snapping up “Old Céline” pieces before they were gone, and conversations turned to where fashion was headed.
While several years have passed, we’ve again returned to the question about the future of fashion—this time, in a post-COVID world. While that still remains to be seen, we’ll have Philo’s perspective to help shape it, and I couldn’t be more ready to see what that looks like. Until then, I’ll be going back to Philo’s biggest hits, which have proven to be just as relevant today as they were when they first debuted on the runways. Ahead, the Phoebe Philo fashion capsule to wear before her return in 2022.
Philo’s take on tailoring? Decidedly modern with relaxed silhouettes and details like cutouts on coats and long straps on cropped jackets. Though designed years ago, these pieces feel more relevant than ever.