The Gritti Palace! 15th-Century Palazzos! Canal-Side Bars! Here's How to Visit Venice Like a Local

Max Hurd is a Who What Wear UK Editor in Residence and London-based art director, tastemaker, interior stylist and creative consultant. A collaborator and advisor to leading luxury brands including Manolo Blahnik, Farfetch, Asprey, Cartier, H&M and Patrón Tequila, his exuberant aesthetic—which he describes as "Oscar Wilde meets Marie-Antoinette by way of a Brazilian bordello"—enables him to curate, write and create across interiors and culture.

There is, quite simply, nowhere like Venice. She is a dream, wrapped inside a mystery, tucked into a legend. She is a city of pure magic and improbability, balancing, as she does, somewhat precariously on wooden planks hammered into the bed of the lagoon. In a world of endless repetition and sameness, she is unique, a floating city that needs to be seen to be believed.

In her heyday, she was the jewel of the Adriatic. Nowadays, some people argue that she is nothing more than a floating museum. I, however, would die proudly on the hill that, despite the crowds and the attempted Disneyfication of the city by the relentless hordes of tourists and their lanyard-wearing, flag-waving shepherds, La Serenissima (the traditional name and formal title for the Republic of Venice) does, in fact, bravely live on.

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I was reminded of this on a recent trip there for the opening of the Venice Biennale. Yes, Venice still has the power to dazzle and inspire, but you do need to know where to look. As with every storied city, there is an argument that suggests the best thing to do is just get lost and peel back the layers yourself. But in a place like Venice, where, despite its small size, there are endless options and opportunities, a guide can be helpful. Here, I humbly offer up my services in the hope that, like me, you fall head over velvet-slippered heels in love with the Lady of the Lagoon.

An Editor-in-Residence's 2026 Travel Guide to Venice

1. Where to Stay

Venice is comprised of six districts, each with its own personality and alternate version of the city to enjoy. The first thing I would say when deciding where to stay is to do away with the all-too-common concept of being "central". Venice is small, and trust me: part of the joy of being there is simply walking around, so don’t focus too much on how far away your hotel or Airbnb is from the Piazza San Marco. (Even if it's a 30-minute walk to the Doge's Palace, that 30 minutes will be magic in itself.)

Historically, my favourite area to stay in has been San Polo—home to the famed Rialto Bridge and palatial hotels like the Aman that line the Grand Canal—but on my last visit, I stayed in Cannaregio, which was fantastic. It felt much more authentically "Venetian" than some of the other areas. It is jam-packed with unassuming restaurants and bars, and in the morning, you can sit out on one of the lesser-known canals and cosplay as a local. Venice is packed with hotels, but below are three I think are truly special.

• The Gritti Palace: Ruinously expensive, but ridiculously worth it. The Gritti belongs to that pantheon of hotels that have come to mean more than just somewhere to lay your head. Staying at the Gritti, like the Chateau Marmont or Claridge’s, means status. These are hotels that represent the epitome of their city’s glamour, and to stay there is a privilege. The Gritti's rooms are all exquisitely decorated in the style of the Venetian Palazzos, and the legendary canal-side bar is arguably the greatest cocktail spot in the world.
• Orient Express Venezia at The Palazzo Donà Giovannelli: Located at the gateway to Cannaregio, the Palazzo Donà Giovannelli is a new kid on the block of the Venetian hotel scene, having only just opened its doors in April this year, but already making quite the splash. Infinitely more contemporary in its design than the Gritti, the Orient Express group has done an excellent job in breathing new life into this 15th-century palazzo.
• Hotel Cipriani: Another icon in its own right. Located on Giudecca, a serene, albeit smaller island in the Venetian Lagoon that looks back on St Mark’s Square, Hotel Cipriani is perfect for guests who want proper downtime away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Personally, I would only ever stay here in the summer, as the outdoor spaces, including the hotel pool, are the stars of the show. It also has a spa and beautiful gardens, two things that are hard to access in Venice.

2. Where to Eat

You know you are doing something right on holiday when the only question you find yourself asking is, where shall I eat? Compared to Neapolitan and Sicilian cuisines, there is a common misconception that the food in Venice is limited, possibly because the city's speciality is a bruschetta-type snack called cicchetti, which is historically associated with gondoliers. Personally, I love Venetian food. The oodles of fried offerings and lagoon-based house specialities perhaps put people off, but really, nothing beats an Italian osteria or trattoria.

• Da’Ivo: Although one of the more famous of Venice’s trattorias, it is not to be written off as "too touristy". Like all the best restaurants in Venice, it is not exactly enormous, but its more intimate setting lends itself beautifully to dinner. I would avoid the cocktails here, but the wine is excellent. If you can, arrive via the watergate.
• Antiche Carampane: Possibly my favourite spot for lunch. I absolutely love the décor, which features an incredible assortment of antique Venetian mirrors, as well as a hilarious little "outdoor" bathroom. It is completely unassuming, but the food is wonderful, as are the cocktails!
• Vini da Arturo: This is the ultimate "if you know, you know" restaurant in Venice. I have actually only ever eaten here once, as a guest of my Venetian friends, and it is truly great. The menu, although smaller than most in Venice, is packed full of delicious local specialities. The wooden panelling makes the whole thing feel incredibly cosy.

3. What to See

Venice is in itself an ode to the dreamer, to the romantic. For hundreds of years, it has been the refuge of the artist, the lover and people who shy away from reality and look to pleasure and otherworldliness for comfort and inspiration. I would argue that Venice is amongst those places that have transcended into the realm of the quasi divine. To be in Venice is to be out of this world. You can feel the years of romance, both carnal and artistic, like layers covering the city. Getting lost in Venice is one of life’s greatest pleasures. So, as far as what to see, see everything! Look up! And whatever you do, don’t blindly follow your phone map. Make sure to look over the heads of the throngs of people and absorb the magic, but if you need some touch points that are slightly off the beaten track, you can do a lot worse than the following.

• Ca’Rezzonico: Not only is the palazzo itself a thing of great beauty, but it houses a truly breathtaking array of 18th-century art and furniture.
• The Fortuny Museum: If you are a fan of sumptuous fabrics and all things interior design, the Fortuny Museum is a must. Often skipped by most, you usually have the place to yourself.
• Palazzo Mocenigo: Dangerously close to the Rialto (which, really, you should try to avoid at all costs on account of the sheer number of people who attempt to cross the bridge) but in my opinion, unmissable. The Palazzo Mocenigo is technically the Centre for the History of Textiles, Costume and Perfume, but I skipped that part and just got lost in the beauty of the palazzo itself. I particularly love the silk wallpaper and the gargantuan Moncenigo family tree.
• Zoppi Gallery: Venice is famous for its glass, and no one in the city boasts a collection like the Zoppi family, who have been dealing in glass for generations. It is currently helmed by my friend Ascanio; he and his father have amassed a treasure trove of glass spanning centuries. Pop by his store just off the Campo Santo Stefano to see what he has to offer, you will not regret it!
• Peggy Guggenheim Museum: Not only is the Peggy Guggenheim collection magnificent in itself (the pieces by Alexander Calder being my absolute favourites), but the building is unique in being the only one-story structure on the Grand Canal. The palazzo has been led by three fascinating women, including current director Karole Vail. If you would like to know more, I would highly recommend reading The Unfinished Palazzo by Judith Mackrell.
• Museo di Palazzo Grimani: Probably most famous for the Tribuna, which is the cherry-on-top room in this (yet another) magnificent palazzo, the Museo di Palazzo Grimani originally housed over 130 sculptures and is dominated by the collection's most famous piece, "The Rape of Ganymede", which is suspended in the air as if in flight.
• Chiesa dei Gesuiti: Possibly my favourite church in Venice, if not the world. It is currently under renovation, but still no less magnificent. The marble drapery surrounding the pulpits is every interior designer's dream, and the use of blues and greys almost makes the church seem aquatic, like it belonged to a long-lost underwater city frequented by sirens and sea monsters.
• Rigattieri: Sadly, now a bit of a tourist trap, but still amazing for ceramic veggies and other marvels. Definitely pop in, because who doesn’t need ceramic asparagus?

4. What to Wear

Shakespeare once said, "All the world's a stage", and nowhere is that more true than in Venice. It’s essentially one big set, so when you are there, I encourage you to look the part! To really experience Venice, you need to live it and feel part of it, and you simply cannot do that in a second-rate silhouette. Every time I go, I pack my most outrageous outfits. Think capes, satin suits, brooches, costume jewellery, large hats and of course, velvet Venetian slippers purchased from the family-run tobacconists rather than the overpriced stores. If there’s a place to dress up, it’s Venice, and in my humble opinion, it always pays to remember that it's better to be looked at than overlooked!