It’s safe to say that French label Jacquemus has become a darling of the fashion world. And, yes, I’m obsessed. I have an affinity for all things French, which is certainly no well-guarded secret, but Simon Porte Jacquemus’s particular take on French fashion goes beyond what I’ve come to expect. And maybe that’s because he isn’t just designing with Parisian women in mind. In a recent interview with Vogue, the designer explained that from the beginning, “Everything was telling a story of this French girl—not the Parisian girl, but the French girl.” In particular, there is one French woman—his late mother Valérie—who influences his designs and is always the muse behind his collections. She passed away in a car accident when he was young, and it’s the memory of her glamour and her personal take on fashion that continues to inspire him.
That personal approach and sense of storytelling are easy to pick up on. Like many designers, each of his collections adheres to a theme, but what’s interesting is that they are also telling the story of a specific Jacquemus girl—and one of his greatest talents is creating cinematic worlds built around these women. Last fall it was “La Bomba,” where he showcased glamorous outfits in the South of France (captured in a spectacular one-shot film by director Gordon von Steiner). And his most recent show, “Le Souk,” which was inspired by a trip the designer took to Morocco and conjures up the feeling and colors of a marketplace in Marrakech.