I Asked Makeup Artists How to Take the Most Flattering Passport Photo of My Life—9 Celeb-Level Secrets

Nothing humbles you quite like standing at the CVS counter in full glam, mentally spiraling to the melodic chirp of self-checkout scanners. "Could I see it?" I gingerly ask the cashier, who patiently flashed me his computer screen as I inspected the gritty image that would linger for the next decade, clutching my lip liner as if it was a lucky rabbit-foot. Look, I'm realistic. I'm not expecting to magically sprout Bella Hadid's bone structure or anything, but 10 years is a long time, and I want a passport photo that doesn't make me cringe every time I show it to an airport gate agent. Is that such a tall order?

Apparently not, according to TikTok. A quick search on the app will generate countless videos titled something along the lines of "How to take your passport photo like a baddie." The trailblazer is arguably UK-based content creator Georgia Barratt, whose viral 2022 makeup tutorial currently sits at 16.5 million views, but really, the formidable challenge of taking a "good" ID photo is nothing new. Consider Victoria Beckham, who kicked off a legitimate photo shoot—glam team included—at her DMV appointment in the 2007 reality TV special Victoria Beckham: Coming to America. "You don't do retouching?" she deadpans to the government employee. License photos, the great equalizer! Now, in a world where selfies have a shelf life of roughly 10 seconds before the algorithm pushes the next Gen Z content dump, the analog ID becomes a significant memento.

"I also think it's the contentification of everything and the obsession with looking hot in environments where it's not expected," makeup artist Lila Childs explains. (Exhibit B: TikTok's jumbotron trend, where users create AI videos of themselves looking snatched as they catch themselves on the big screen. It's very Pamela Anderson circa 1989, when the star was discovered at a BC Lions game.) A flattering passport photo becomes the ultimate flex—like you've mastered your angles and defied the odds of bad lighting. If a few makeup techniques can shoulder the effort, well, that's something worth saving.

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So what does passport makeup entail? Simply put, "the goal is to serve," declares celebrity makeup artist Kelli Anne Sewell, who created a 37-minute video dedicated to perfecting the look. "Think super-sculpted cheekbones, soft-matte skin that blurs in pictures, a defined and lifted eye with a baby wing, and a really pouty lip." It sounds sublime, but achieving that perfect baseline is more difficult than you think. Passport makeup is a bit more camera ready, says Sewell, meaning it requires heavier coverage than you might be used to. At the same time, however, it needs to appear totally clean and natural. Your government document should look like you, after all. "It's less about looking overly glamorous and more about looking naturally refined and confident," adds celebrity makeup artist Kelly Zhang. Given the delicate dance, I asked the three experts to walk me through each step before venturing over to my local CVS. This is on-the-ground journalism, no?

Do you absolutely need to wear full glam for your passport-photo appointment? Of course not—louder for the people in the back. As with any beauty trend, feel free to absorb what you please and leave behind what doesn't serve you. But for those curious about the best tricks and techniques, scroll ahead for the only passport makeup guide you'll need.

1. Contour Generously

Contouring as the very first step might seem confusing, but beauty fans know exactly where I'm going with this. To achieve a naturally sculpted effect, makeup artists recommend the underpainting method, in which you apply your contour and highlighter before foundation and/or concealer. "This carves out all the shadows and gives you that extra-snatched look, especially around the nose," explains Childs. Don't be afraid to really pile on the contour either, especially around the eyes and underneath your cheekbones. Zhang points out, "Cameras tend to flatten the face more than real life, so I usually recommend slightly more definition than you think."

2. Apply a Soft-Matte Base

Dewy, megawatt skin looks ethereal IRL, but in a photo—especially one snapped in suboptimal lighting—all that glow can read a little wonky. "Flash photography can exaggerate shine," Zhang explains, adding that she avoids shimmer, glitter, or anything overly dewy. Rather, she recommends applying a lightweight, skin-like formula on the center of the face ("around the T-zone, under the eyes, forehead, nose, and chin," she instructs) to keep the skin looking dimensional yet natural. "The foundation that always hits with photography is Armani Luminous Silk," Sewell is quick to declare. "It's a makeup-artist staple for a reason."

3. Set With Powder

Setting powder is the unsung hero of passport makeup. Even if you're not someone who typically sets their base (ahem, me), you'll definitely want to spend a few extra seconds to lock everything in place, especially around the T-zone and cheeks, where the camera flash might exacerbate shine. "I don't 'bake' on the day-to-day, but I would definitely do an under-eye powder bake for this look," Childs adds. Bonus points if you grab an option that simultaneously blurs and brightens, like Makeup by Mario's Soft Blur Setting Powder—Sewell's go-to.

4. Add a Touch of Blush

Blush has the power to literally change your face shape—hence why it's my desert-island beauty item! A few strategic swipes can create an instantly sculpted, lifted look, so Childs recommends applying your product of choice right underneath your pupil and sweeping outward, stopping at the temples instead of directly on top of the apples of your cheeks, which results in a more youthful flush. You'd be surprised by how much of a difference that tiny tweak can make.

Contrary to what you might think, though, you don't want to use too much blush here. The most popular passport makeup look is more about sculpted contour and a pouty lip than vibrant cheeks, so there's no need to pack on the pigment. You'll also want to make sure to diffuse any harsh lines for a soft, effortless blend. Pro tip: Go back in with your seasoned foundation brush or sponge to encourage a seamless blur.

5. Elongate the Eyes

When it comes to sculpting the orbs, your eyeliner does a lot of the heavy lifting. "I would tightline the upper waterline to sharpen the eye," shares Childs, who swears by the technique for her everyday eye looks. To wing or not to wing is ultimately up to personal preference, but if you do crave a simple cat eye, I'd suggest a baby flick over extended, razor-sharp liner—just enough to add extra definition without overpowering the whole look.

Next, contour the eye with a neutral brown eye shadow. "Apply through the crease toward the top of the nose and then take the excess along the lower lash line," Childs instructs. As you can probably surmise, this is not the time to break out your glittery eye shadow palette. Remember, "shimmer can reflect harshly in photos," Zhang notes, which is why she recommends matte-brown eye makeup. "Curling the lashes is also extremely important because it instantly opens up the eyes in pictures," she adds.

Whether you use black or brown mascara, make sure to spend extra time coating the outer lash corners, which, according to Childs, perfectly elongates the eyes. She even recommends dragging the wand outward as you're applying to create a flared-out effect.

6. Overline and Gloss

Passport makeup goes hand in hand with a blurred, soft-focus aesthetic, but when it comes to lips, feel free to glob on the shine. First, you'll want to sculpt the shape. "Just overline your heart out," instructs Childs, who praises Sacheu's DoubleDown Liners that "make the lips look twice their size." For lip colors, a neutral pink or brown typically photographs best, Zhang notes, and Sewell adores a "nice mauvy nude." No matter which route you take, a touch of clear gloss on top can create the illusion of full, pouty lips. Just make sure you pop it right on the center for optimal dimension.

Extra Tips to Keep in Mind

• Set all your cream products: "After your cream products, set everything with the powder counterpart: powder bronzer, powder blush, setting powder. This will make the makeup last longer and also bump up the color payoff," shares Childs.
• Avoid too much SPF makeup: Make no mistake—sunscreen is nonnegotiable! But for your passport photo, Zhang advises against an SPF-heavy skin tint, especially if it contains zinc oxide (the primary filter in mineral sunscreens). "Some formulas can create flashback in photos and make the skin appear too white," she explains. It's not a given, but you might want to stick to one layer of sunscreen just to be safe.
• Know your angles: Beyond makeup tips, I had to ask the pros for some posing guidance. They're privy to on-set magic, after all! "I've learned a lot in the past few years working with photographers on shoots," shares Sewell. "Definitely chin down and almost a soft squint to the eyes. I always put my tongue on the roof of my mouth to elongate the neck too." From there, both Childs and Zhang recommend standing up straight—simple yet effective. As Childs states, "I know you can only see your face, but it makes a difference!"