As someone with super-dry, curly hair, I have to be careful about what I put on my strands. I've tried a lot of different products over the years—and I mean a lot. It was only through this trial-and-error experience that I learned which ingredients don't work for my specific hair type. Some of them made sense (things like drying silicones), but others totally surprised me. One such ingredient was coconut oil.
I've read so many great things about the benefits coconut oil offers your hair, so I would constantly seek out products with this ingredient. I always noticed, though, that after using something with it, my hair would feel extremely dry and lack definition over time. Naturally, I was super frustrated by this since I'd recently decided to curate a silicone-free haircare routine. Silicones were often the culprit when my hair was feeling extra dry, but then, I realized something else must be causing it too. Finally, I realized there was a common thread among my products, and it was always the addition of coconut oil.
Don't get me wrong, this oil can definitely still be beneficial, but if you've noticed it has a similar effect on your hair, you're going to want to keep reading. I asked hairstylist and textured-hair expert Brendnetta Ashley for intel on this. Keep scrolling, as she shared a bit more about it ahead.
Why Coconut Oil Can Dry Out Curly Hair
I'll start this off by talking about some of the benefits coconut oil can offer the hair. Coconut oil can help prevent protein loss in the hair because the proteins found in it are really similar to those in our own hair. This can help repair damage and prevents it from happening in the future. It can also help with scalp conditions like dandruff and is packed with healing fatty acids. It even has the unique ability to penetrate the hair shaft, reducing the amount of water absorbed into your hair.
This is actually where the issue lies, especially when it comes to curly hair. Most curl types need water to activate. If coconut oil prevents water from getting into the hair shaft, it can lead to hair that becomes drier or more brittle over time. Ashley elaborates on this. "Coconut oil can coat the hair shaft. When using it alone, it can become a barrier to water and any other product to hydrate the hair, thus making the hair drier," she explains.
"Your hair's porosity level would determine if coconut oil is best suited for you. Coconut oil is not good for low-porosity hair because it will prevent water from moving out of the hair, so it doesn't allow water to move in and out of the hair. It will become dull and dry. Just the opposite, high-porosity hair is more open to moisture flowing in and out, thus having room for both. It won't become dry or dull if using coconut oil."
It seems the key here is to know your hair's porosity. This is especially important for curlies whose strands are already drier than other hair types by nature. I'm also not saying that you should immediately throw out your products if they contain coconut oil. Like I said above, it has a lot of amazing benefits, but I had to provide this PSA in case there's anyone else out there struggling with the same issue and can't pinpoint what it is.
Ingredients to Try Instead
If your products have coconut oil and are working great for you, then you definitely don't need to toss them. Personally, I found that coconut oil and my coarse, thick, curly hair don't mix well, so I'll most likely be steering clear in the future. Ashley also has a few tips on what ingredients to try instead if coconut oil does dry out your hair. "When looking to hydrate your curls, you want to look for products that have camellia oil, argan oil, or shea butter. These ingredients will add nourishment into your hair, leaving it soft and hydrated."
If you could use a few coconut oil–free options for your curls, take a look at some of my favorites below.
The Best Coconut Oil–Free Hair Products
I've been using this rich deep-conditioning treatment from Bounce Curl lately and love it. It has made my hair so soft and 10 times more manageable with Ayurvedic ingredients like amla, brinjal, and shikakai.
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"I really enjoy using Fibre Clinix Bonding Rich Cream-to-Oil. It has five oil complexes: camellia oil, baobab oil, almond oil, abyssinian oil, [and] argan oil. These five oils give your curls everything you need." — Ashley
This is another one of my all-time favorite deep-conditioning treatments. It contains ingredients that really nourish dry, thick hair like shea butter and jojoba oil.
This defining custard works so well with other styling products. It also adds so much extra definition and moisture to dry curls.
This is another great product from Bounce Curl that adds so much hydration and softness to the hair. I will say that it doesn't quite give as much definition as I would like, but it works great with other defining creams or gels and makes my hair feel really nourished.
Prose is great because it'll make you a custom curl cream with ingredients that will work well with your hair.
This curl-quenching conditioner infuses curls with rich hydration, softens, strengthens, and encourages definition.
As far as leave-ins go, this one offers a lot of extra moisture without weighing down thicker curls.
This simple oil blend of safflower, jojoba, and lavender is so nourishing to curls but never makes them feel greasy or heavy. It's another great option that I love for coarser hair.
When in doubt, a simple one-ingredient oil will do. This oil from SheaMoisture contains 100% pure argan oil, a moisturizing and smoothing oil that helps deep-condition curls.
