We have mixed feelings about the term "trend" when it comes to beauty. After all, there are so many amazing products and focus points for inspiration (the red carpet, Instagram, the girl sitting next to us on the subway, etc.) that narrowing down our spring makeup aesthetic to whatever was spotted on the runways feels rather limiting. And while many of the beauty trends we've seen during fashion week and other showcases are, indeed, noteworthy and beautiful, they're not always what translates to the trends our celeb- and makeup artist–studded IG feeds are filled with once the season actually hits.
Of course, we encourage experimenting on your own whenever possible. There's never been a better time to be playful with your approach to makeup. Oftentimes, though, it's helpful (or at least interesting) to see which products and looks are a high priority for the industry's top makeup artists. To zero in, we reached out to legendary artist and global executive director of creative artistry at Stila Cosmetics, Sarah Lucero. Suffice it to say, with a hand in the brand's product development and as a seasoned fashion week veteran, Lucero knows what's up. With the arrival of spring being just around the corner, Lucero broke down her exclusive spring makeup trend report featuring five of the most noteworthy looks to try out for size.
Trend #1: Shine Shrine
Glowy skin, glass skin, cloudless skin… Clean, bouncy and bright skin has been trending for a while, but that doesn't mean it's any less important to this spring's makeup trend report. However, according to Lucero, there is one small difference worth noting for spring 2020: "It's something I like to call 'Shine Shrine.' It's kind of like a clear glass base with shine and sheen everywhere—the lips, eyes, face."
This season's glow uses opalescent hints to creates a wet effect that's brighter than the glossy looks of the past.
For anyone who wants to achieve this effect at home, Lucero suggests Stila's Heaven Dew's All Over Glimmer. "It's my favorite product to create this [shine] look on all skin types and tones. The clear base can be used as a top coat over your other eye makeup or alone as an eye-gloss effect. Use your fingertips to apply. A touch is all it takes. Place it anywhere you want to look lit-up. You can also apply a touch of the glimmer directly to the center of the lids and up towards the crease. This will make your eyes appear larger and give the illusion of a glossy fantasy finish."
She also suggests a tinted highlighter for those wanting to achieve a more everyday approach for their glow. "Kitten Heaven’s Hue Highlighter is ideal for anyone who wants a more natural approach to adding sheen into their complexion routine. Both products can be applied head-to-toe for total glow!"
But a highlighter isn't the only product to invest in for shine and sheen. Lucero reminds us that skincare products can and should be considered in your makeup routine.
"Weleda Skin Food is my go-to skin gloss to get shine without shimmer. I've been using it for years. I like to use Skin Food over the Heaven’s Hue Highlighter as an added beauty boost. Using a wet Beautyblender, I bounce the large end into the product on the back of my hand so it absorbs into the sponge. Then I'll hit the high points of the face (like the high cheekbones and the bridge of the nose) and it creates a nice shine without removing your makeup. It almost melts and merges everything together resulting in a super-juicy finish."
Trend #2: White Liners
There's nothing we crave more come spring and summer than a pretty makeup look that will require as little time as possible. Hey, we have beaches to hit and cocktails to sip, after all! The good news? Lucero says that all it takes is some white liner. "White eyeliner and white eye shadows are going to be a major thing. It's a beautiful kind of matte monochrome finish."
"For a modern approach to classic cat eyes, pair white eyeliner with a black cat eye and be sure to add mascara to your top and bottom lash line. Lucero recommends using a black liner along the lash line to ensure you don't diminish the shape of your eyes. "If you were to use a white liner with just mascara, you'd lose that feline shape you've created and end up with eyes that appear round and small."
Lucero suggests first lining your eyes with your favorite black liner to frame your eye and elongate your lash line, and then using a white liner to draw above it. She suggests using "a thin liner brush or tip. This will instantly open up any smaller lids and make the eyes appear bigger and brighter! The placement of the white shade stacked right above the black creates a nice '60s babe vibe."
After adding your liner, be sure to add mascara to both the top and bottom lashes to bring back some framing. Lucero recommends using "a lash fan brush or flat liner brush to paint on black mascara to lower lashes." She continues, "My favorite lash fan brush to apply mascara with is Glo Skin Beauty #310 Dual Fiber Lash Brush. I like to sweep off the mascara from the wand and then use the brush to kind of whisper-paint the lashes—especially right at the root of the lash line on the lower ones. Start in the center and work your way out. As a final touch, add some of the product on the inner-corner lower lashes. This will keep the bulk of the mascara in the middle for a mod, wide-eyed effect."
As for which mascara to use, Lucero recommends a volumizing one like Stila's Huge Mascara.
Trend #3: Pastel Peepers
Those watercolor-like washes you've been seeing pop up all over your Instagram feed? Expect to see that continue through the spring and summer seasons.
Lucero notes, "Everyone's doing a wash of color." As for what colors exactly, "Pink and coral eyes were seen all over the spring 2020 runways. Also a lot of lilacs and baby blues like a robin egg and a periwinkle…"
But before testing out the trend yourself, make sure you're starting off with a clean base. "A Manic Panic–esque pink or a wash of sheer pastels are easy to pull off if you spend time perfecting your skin. I love One Step Correct because it will take care of redness and tone down discoloration. You don’t want redness around nostrils or undereye discoloration to distract or compete with a color like pink or coral as eye shadow. It could possibly make you look tired, so pay extra attention to your complexion by spending a few extra minutes on skin-perfecting."
Lucero continues, "I love using the Pixel Perfect Concealer to knock out unwanted redness fast. The texture is smooth and weightless so it can be used as your concealer and foundation in areas of concern. Layer Pixel Perfect right on top of the One Step Correct."
Don't be afraid to choose an eye shadow shade that really pops and has a strong color payoff.
Applying a pastel shade over a damp base will help to intensify a lighter color.
Trend #4: Fresh Face Meets Bold Lip
The bold red lip is back. But before you start dreaming up retro-inspired makeup looks to plan, you may want to hold back on adding any the thick cat-eyes.
Lucero shares, "I'm seeing a lot of opaque, rich red lips. They were seen all over the red carpet this season in classic colors but it’s a vinyl shine finish that makes it modern. Bold red lips are also being paired with a gorgeous, clean, almost crisp eye. Leaving a neutral face can allow the lip to kind of speak for itself."
"Stila has something called lip vinyl that we launched for spring, and it's a super-opaque, high-coverage full pigment. But it also has a brilliant shine. With it, you get a rich red lip with a vinyl shine finish that puts a modern spin on a classic trend."
A bare face can act as a clear canvas to allow your bold lip to really pop, but a minimal base doesn't have to be bereft of shine. You should still add a bit of gloss and highlight to the high points on your face. According to Lucero, "You still have that theme of that shine shrine, focusing on the eyelids and the cheekbones to really help that lip feel powerful." As far as what tone of highlight to use, she recommends something more neutral and warm (like a rose gold) as opposed to a silver.
To keep the eye area clear of any redness, Lucero recommends using this little tip. "There's something about doing a little concealer right on the outer corner of each eye. Everybody gets a little pink there. Adding just a dot of your concealer there will help your eyes look awake."
If you do want to add a touch of color to your face, Lucero recommends going the route of warm, peachy tones. "With a bright red lip, add a coral blush color onto the cheeks. Then use that same warm cheek tone and add a little wash of it right across the eyelids to tie it together."
Trend #5: Geometric "Pop Art" Eyes
Playful, artistic looks have been sweeping our beauty-studded IG feeds lately. According to Lucero, the trend has only just begun.
Go ham and experiment with whatever colors you have on hand to create a bold eye look. But don't just focus on your lids—feel free to apply product up and above the crease. The only real rule here is to make sure you're framing your shadows with a black or similarly dark liner. Lucero says a black outline will give the shape more drama.
Lucero shares that liquid liner is the easiest product to use when it comes to adding any lash line or "V"-shape detailing.
If you've been hesitant to try out liquid shadows, now might be the time to set aside your fears. In fact, Lucero recommends using them: "Liquid shadows are easy because they're almost like a cream shadow. They melt and are easy to blend and they really don't dry too quickly."
Go big or go home with your shadow choices.
As Lucero noted before, to retain a wide-eyed shape, be sure to always finish off any bold colored look with a good mascara.