It's been over two years since stylist Allison Bornstein came up with the wrong-shoe theory, a styling trick that involves pairing an outfit with one specific theme or aesthetic with an unexpected, often mismatched or even incorrect pair of shoes. Think track pants with kitten heels, a pencil skirt with retro sneakers, and flip-flops with tailored trousers. You get the picture. According to Bornstein, the hack is a guaranteed method for differentiating ensembles, making your outfits unique and thought-provoking every time. Let's just say it caught on quickly. Her 2022 TikTok about adding the wrong shoes garnered over 380,000 views and 38,000 likes.
In turn, people began getting more creative with their pairings—not just in the shoe department but also across their wardrobes. The next "wrong" genre to take off? Coats. Designers sent looks down the runway featuring outerwear that didn't quite sync stylistically with the dresses underneath during the past two seasons, starting with Tory Burch at its S/S 24 show.
Tory Burch S/S 24
In the show, which took place in September 2023, a model debuted a dove-gray track jacket styled on top of a draped jersey minidress. With the duo, she wore sporty sunglasses and Mary Jane flats. Everything about the look could be considered wrong, from the shoe choice to the outerwear, yet everything just clicked. I saved photos of it to a mood board, taking inspiration from the styling for an outfit I wore to last September's Tory Burch show during New York Fashion Week. I opted for a Proenza Schouler technical jacket and the taupe version of the same Tory Burch dress.
Meanwhile, WWW Editorial Director Lauren Eggertsen wore her own version of the trend, styling a brown funnel-neck jacket with a maxi-length white sequin skirt from Tory Burch. Though her outfit was very different from my interpretation, both of our looks checked off the wrong-coat criteria, showcasing the trend's versatility and ability to consistently create distinctive and uncommon outfits.
Street style:
Eliza Huber and Lauren Eggertsen at the S/S 25 Tory Burch show
The same season that we tested out the wrong-coat theory on the streets of New York, brands across the city and in Milan, Paris, and London got busy developing their own versions of it for their spring/summer 2025 collections. At Prada, one model wore a silver sequin cocktail dress with a bright-yellow nylon zip-up jacket styled with satin point-toe pumps. Its sister brand, Miu Miu, also featured the styling hack, placing gray-and-navy jackets on top of poplin sundresses worn with oversize sunglasses, leg warmers, and peep-toe heels. At Brandon Maxwell, Burberry, and Rabanne, sequin dresses were likewise topped with utilitarian outerwear, from funnel-neck jackets to full-on fur-trim parkas. Bungee cords, snaps, and oversize pockets made surprising partners for lace, crochet, and fringe frocks. Shockingly enough, they were all good surprises.
Runway:
Prada S/S 25
Zimmermann S/S 25
Brandon Maxwell S/S 25
Like the wrong-shoe theory, topping off a more formal dress with a practical, sporty jacket changes things, throwing people off and making them question the way they think about outerwear. Sure, any of the runway looks shown above could be worn with classic coats and jackets, but what would that do other than hide the masterpiece underneath? With this trick, people will want to look closer and soon figure out ways to mimic its standout nature with pieces in their own wardrobes.
For anyone who doesn't yet own the pieces necessary to do so, don't fret. Scroll down to shop the wrong-coat theory right away.
Shop the wrong-coat theory:
You can go two routes with this: Opt for a simpler sporty jacket to let the dress underneath shine, or go bold with both pieces, guaranteeing a "stop in your tracks" outfit.
This draped Tory Burch mini is the perfect dress layer for this styling ideology.
Get creative with your colors and textures by pairing this burgundy field jacket from The Frankie Shop with the below off-white crochet maxi dress.
The soft, sheer look of this dress makes it a welcome contrast for the technical aesthetic of a sporty jacket.
The waist drawstring adds more shape to this type of jacket.
This butter-yellow gown will go perfectly with the soft-gray jacket above, as the sheer fabric will contrast with the patterned nylon.
The Row's technical outerwear designs are some of the fashion world's most sought-after pieces right now, from anoraks to windbreakers like this one.
Do something super unexpected by pairing it with this frilly, romantic minidress from Zimmermann. I know it doesn't look like it would work, but it will.
The various tightening devices on this Wardrobe.NYC pick allow you to fit and flare the silhouette in different ways depending on the dress underneath.
The color and shine of this hoop dress from Tory Burch will go great with the muted hue of the above Wardrobe.NYC coat.
If you're going to invest in just one sporty jacket, go for a neutral color like this black Burberry option. That way, you can really play around with the dress side of this trend.
This satin halter dress would go with anything, including the black sporty topper above.
Brown goes with just as much as black, if not more.
Okay, this isn't technically a dress, but it just goes to show that jumpsuits (and skirts!) can also work when paired with a sportier top layer.
If you're not the sporty type, try this equally utilitarian jacket that's more outdoorsy than courtside.
Pair it with this stunning burgundy lambskin dress I just fell in love with from Proenza Schouler.
The leather on this cinch-waist jacket will make for the perfect contrast with the below sequin mini.
I'm usually not a sequin person, but something about this dress has me changing my mind.
For a more affordable option, you can't go wrong with this pick from Helsa.
Every fashion person has had their heart set on buying an embellished Rabanne dress at one point or another.
This Prada pullover goes especially well with sheer fabrics.
For anyone who's not the biggest fan of next-to-naked fabrics, the gauzy silk on this blush-pink maxi is a perfect alt. It's translucent but not transparent, so you don't have to fret about wearing something see-through.
This Tibi trackie has so many cool details.
This dress will shock and awe when paired with it.
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