What makes a brand cool? If I had the answer to this question by way of some mathematical formula or a foolproof five-step marketing strategy, I would be a very rich woman. But there are some things maths just cannot solve (as much as my A-level teacher would otherwise have me believe). Being cool in 2024 is harder than ever, and for fashion brands looking to be the next big thing, or at the very least, have a moment, there’s a mile-long stretch of invisible hoops to jump through to get there.
Gone are the days when "It" items were solely dictated by a celebrity endorsement or at fashion week. Now, these pieces almost seem to appear from nowhere, thanks to a sudden spark of traction on Instagram or TikTok. And we’re talking about standalone cult items—for an entire brand to make it, it has to have a potent blend of all of the above and then some. Of course, it helps if the wares on offer are cool in their own right. Everyone will have a different idea of what truly belongs in this category, so designers need to consider who they want to speak to, think about what’s missing from their wardrobes, shoe racks, jewellery boxes or handbag shelves; create pieces that are going to catch their eye and—the crucial part—make them want to come back for more. This is no small feat but it isn’t impossible; I’ve found a selection of brands that have achieved precisely this and are defining what it means to be stylish in 2024.
As we enter spring, I wanted to take a moment to shine a spotlight on the brands that have truly blazed their own trails this season, coming up with unique, recognisable and highly covetable pieces that have fashion lovers hooked. This list includes some big-player luxury fashion brands you might expect—it would have been remiss of me not to include French fashion house Alaïa, whose hold on 2024 is growing stronger by the day. But it was also very important to feature those small but mighty brands that have done more than merely stay the course on this year’s style trajectory—rather, their hands have been on the wheel, firmly steering it.
Keep scrolling to see the 10 brands I think are thoroughly worthy of all the attention they're getting this year.
Did you know that couturier Azzedine Alaïa was also a sculptor? This gave the designer a nuanced understanding of the female form—the subject he was most passionate about. This passion remains at the heart of his namesake fashion house, Alaïa, and although the brand is widely considered one of the greats, there's no denying that it feels especially current right now. From its mesh, crystal-studded Mary Jane flats to its Le Coeur heart-shaped bag, Alaïa has been rather effortlessly churning out cult buys at a rate that no other brand can match nor better. Its latest slew of figure-hugging dresses have been all over the red carpet this season too—proof that the brand delivers beyond its zeitgeisty accessories. This blend of celebrity sightings, social media presence and instantly recognisable pieces cements it as one of 2024's most desirable brands.
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Jewellery is a powerful thing. Choose wisely, and an elegant pair of earrings or a chunky necklace can alter the DNA of any outfit. And right now, fashion people are turning to one particular brand to update their ensembles: Lié Studio. Founded in 2021 by twin sisters Amalie and Cecilie Moosgaard, the Copenhagen-based brand (its trendy locale is enough to make it a consideration for our list alone) creates distinguishable pieces as standard. From its Elly necklace; a modern, metallic interpretation of the classic pearl necklace, to its selection of statement-making studs, Lié Studio is (not so) slowly taking over my FYP. Basic clothing is ideal to offset the refined designs—think white button-downs, jersey tees and simple black dresses.
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Solid denim pieces are the cornerstone of so many great spring outfits, and this year, one brand is leading the charge. I keep seeing denim brand Closed tagged in outfit pictures on Instagram—so much so that I had to head to the website to see what all the fuss is about. Based in Hamburg, Germany, I was surprised to learn that the brand has been making jeans since 1978. However, after a refocus on its marketing last year, 2024 is shaping up to be Closed's year, and deservedly so. With an exploration of silhouettes and proportions, the brand designs jeans that stand out from anything else on the market. It's not all about denim though—Closed also serves up an elite selection of basics that are quickly working their way into the wardrobes of top-tier fashion content creators such as Anne Laure-Mais and Monikh Dale.
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From the moment she graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2014, there was a buzz surrounding Grace Wales Bonner. The young designer's wholly unique take on classic tailoring cemented her as a rising star in the fashion industry from day one and continues to cement her appeal amongst cool types a decade later. Her namesake brand Wales Bonner has not only been picked up by the likes of Net-a-Porter and Matches, but the label has also joined the elite ranks of designers that show at Paris Fashion Week. There's also the long-standing and crazy-successful partnership with Adidas—pieces from the sportswear giant's collaboration with Wales Bonner are like gold dust—and yet, somehow, it feels like Wales Bonner is only just getting started.
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With Nothing Underneath claims to make "the perfect shirt", and I have to say it comes as close as a brand can. It presents a strong case for finding your niche, sticking to it and doing it well, which has kept it firmly on my radar since its launch in 2017. The brand has been patient since then, growing through word of mouth as customers praised the quality and versatility of its garments. Citing inspiration from timeless dressers including Carolyn Besette Kennedy, Jane Birkin and Charlotte Rampling, With Nothing Underneath's shirts are, quite simply, the physical manifestation of less-is-more styling.
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The rise in popularity of Italian fashion house Ferragamo is unlike any we've seen in recent years, with the brand becoming one of the hottest on the luxury market. Founded by Salvatore Ferragamo in 1927, much of the house's heritage is tied to the late founder's passion for footwear. In fact, ready-to-wear wasn't even launched until 38 years after the house's inception. However, it was the appointment of its most recent creative director Maximilian Davis in 2022 that spearheaded Ferragamo's current fashion reign. In the two years since his appointment, the brand's ready-to-wear collections have captivated the fashion crowd's attention and become a go-to for stylists with A-list clients to dress for awards ceremonies and red-carpet events. Still, if I were given the opportunity to purchase one thing from Ferragamo, it would absolutely be one of its cult-status bags.
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One of Ukraine's most notable fashion labels, Bevza has a serenely minimalist aesthetic that reflects the strength of the women who wear it. The brand launched in 2006 but its appeal has really taken hold in the past few years, with its pearl crop top being one of its most Instagrammed pieces. Today, the brand is top-billing at New York Fashion Week, pulling in a crowd that appreciates the refinement of a monochrome palette balanced with hushed, head-turning design. Currently exploring cut-outs and silhouettes in its clothing, the brand is also known for its shapely accessories and bags.
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Little Liffner might be the brand's name, but its impact on 2024's handbag scene is anything but minute. Fashion people will be familiar with the Scandi brand's refined yet sculptural designs, creating its own pertinent style of subtly statement arm candy. Take its Sprout tote bag—upon first glance, it's a timeless and practical tote that can fit all your essentials with room to spare. However, when you look closer, the abstract, mismatched shapes at the base of the straps give it a unique point of difference and tell those in the know that yes, this is a Little Liffner bag. You'll see the same thought given to its metal hardware on other handbags too.
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As a Francophile, it was inevitable that some French labels would make my cool brands list. Of course, we've already outlined Alaïa—a brand that needs no real introduction—but one you may not be as familiar with is Destree. Founded in 2015, Destree initially specialised in high-end accessories with a clear focus on statement handbags pulling through to the fore. Over the years, however, the brand has diversified its offering to include clothes and other accessories, which have become sought after in their own right. With a jewel-toned colour palette, the use of fabulous fabrics and a penchant for whimsical silhouettes—its vintage-inspired Amoako jacket has become something of a signature piece—it's the closest thing to candy you can get in clothes form. Having caught the eye of modern-day style icon Sofia Richie Grainge and her older, equally as style-minded sister Nicole Richie as well as a host of fashion editors, this is a brand I predict we'll see a whole lot more of as 2024 evolves.
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Peachy Den started out in the way so many other fresh brands do. Its founder Isabella Weatherby couldn't find clothes she wanted to buy and wear, so she created her own. That was in 2019, and of course, no one knew what lay ahead for us all in 2020. The fact that Peachy Den survived the pandemic—something few independent brands were able to do—is a testament to Weatherby's determination as well as the brand's designs, which are current with a capital C. From tailored, pinstripe co-ords to shirred cotton skirts and knitted cardigans with hoods, everything feels very "now". Representation is important to the brand; its small female team wear-test everything Peachy Den designs on a range of body shapes and sizes. "If we don’t all feel our very best [in the piece], we don’t make it," Peachy Den proclaims on its social media accounts. Some pieces also have the option of bespoke tailoring, ensuring a next-to-perfect fit.
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