A Dermatologist Told Me the Dos and Don'ts of At-Home Chemical Peels

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(Image credit: @emmahoareau)

If you've ever seen that episode of Sex and the City where Samantha gets a chemical peel just hours before Carrie's big book release party, you've likely associated the treatment with sensitized, splotchy, scary-looking skin ever since. (Just me?) Even the name of this popular treatment sounds a little frightening. (Chemical peel? Scary and scarier!) But the truth is it's one of the best things you can do to reveal your brightest, most youthful-looking skin. And believe it or not, there are at-home chemical peels that bring the power of medical-grade solutions to your vanity. 

To get the scoop on all things at-home chemical peels, I knew celebrity dermatologist Dennis Gross, MD, was the perfect person to speak with. I've been a fan of his products for years, ever since skin expert Shani Darden turned me on to his famous Alpha Beta Peels, which have now been on the market for 20 years. I used these acid-soaked daily chemical peel pads religiously as part of my targeted plan to help refine my skin after a bout of hormonal acne left my face covered in hyperpigmented marks. I've since had the pleasure of meeting the veteran dermatologist for an in-person consult (yes, I've joined the ranks of his A-list clientele that includes everyone from Zoë Kravitz to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley) and was blown away by his skin expertise. If anyone is fit to demystify at-home chemical peels, it's him.

Keep scrolling for everything you need to know about at-home chemical peels and a comprehensive edit of the best ones to try now.

What is a chemical peel, and what are the benefits?

"A chemical peel is an active, two-step chemical formula applied to the skin to exfoliate and remove dead skin cells," says Gross. "A key point to remember is a peel is not a peel without being two steps—the first step will deliver acids and remove dead skin, and the second step will neutralize and deliver anti-aging benefits."

As far as the benefits of chemical peels go, Gross says they're plentiful. "If you're using a peel with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), AHAs dissolve the bonds that hold dead skin cells together, and BHAs remove dead skin cells and unclog pores," he explains. "This will also remove bacteria that could have led to clogged pores. You will see radiance instantaneously, and your skin will look brighter. Pores will look smaller, and fine lines and wrinkles will be diminished."

How do at-home chemical peels differ from in-office chemical peels?

Chemical peels are often associated with doctor visits, and while it's true that there are certain substances and chemical strengths that really should be left to the professionals, there are also plenty of approachable formulations that are safe and effective to try yourself. "As technology improves, we are able to create products with potent yet gentle formulas that are extremely efficacious and appropriate for home use. At-home products are created with foolproof formulas with lower concentrations of active ingredients, so consumers can't harm themselves when applying their own treatments," Gross explains. "At my practice, we offer professional Alpha Beta peels that can be done once a month, while the at-home version in our skincare range is created for daily use."

But just because at-home peels contain less potent actives doesn't mean they won't have serious skin benefits. "It's important to note that you can achieve the same results as in-office peels if you use an at-home formula daily," Gross adds. "Additionally, all peels in doctor's offices are two steps. Our at-home product is also two steps, but many other peels on the market for at-home use are not."

What are the risks associated with performing at-home chemical peels?

As you may have guessed, there are a few potential adverse effects of putting strong acids all over your face. "If you're sourcing your own ingredients or purchasing professional peels to administer yourself—which I, unfortunately, see too often—you're running the risk of harming the skin," Gross explains. He also calls out the benefit of using a two-step peel, which minimizes any risk due to the intentional and dedicated neutralizing step. Even if you're using formulas that were made for at-home use, you want to be absolutely certain that they're neutralized to avoid irritation and even chemical burns. "In our two-step peel, the first step removes dead skin and brings to the surface new, young skin cells ready to absorb ingredients, and the second step is a neutralizer with loads of anti-aging ingredients (15-plus) that the new skin will now absorb most efficiently," he says.

And now, the rules.

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(Image credit: @symphanisoto)

Don't: Ignore ingredient labels.

Do: Make sure you're working with the right acids.

Don't: Take a one-size-fits-all approach.

Do: Consider your skin type and skin tone.

Don't: Use trichloroacetic acid (TCA) at home. Just don't.

Do: Work with safer acid concentrations.

Don't: Administer at-home chemical peels if you're pregnant.

Do: Always talk to your doctor if you're unsure if you're in the clear.

Don't: Layer more harsh acids on top of freshly peeled skin.

Do: Incorporate products to support your skin's overall health after an at-home chemical peel.

Shop the best at-home chemical peels:

The Best Chemical Peel Pads

The Best Chemical Peel Masks

This article was originally published at an earlier date and has since been updated. 

Associate Beauty Editor

Courtney Higgs is a Cancer sun, Libra rising beauty enthusiast with about six years of experience in the editorial space. She was previously Who What Wear's associate beauty editor after spending many years working on the West Coast edit team at InStyle Magazine. She graduated from California State University, Northridge, with a BA in communication studies and pivoted to editorial after spending her college years working in the legal field. Her beauty philosophy is simple: She believes there are no wrong answers and that discovering our favorite beauty products and rituals is a journey, not a sprint. When she's not geeking out over products, she can be found adventuring around L.A. with her fiancé; watching reality TV with their French bulldog, Bernie Mac; or relating way too hard to astrology memes.