Trust Me, This French Smoothing Serum Is Just as Good (If Not Better!) Than Your Go-To Retinol

Look, I adore my retinol serum. My complexion tolerates the vitamin A derivative quite well, and I've been told by multiple aestheticians that a daily, low-strength retinol is key for keeping my textbook combination skin clear and smooth. (Read: Constant yet gentle cell turnover balances my oily T-zone without stripping my perennially dry cheeks.) I realize there are some people who can't even utter the word "retinol" without turning tomato red or flaky, and for those individuals, I'm more than happy to supply recommendations for retinol alternatives. For me, however, those alts just don't cut it. Give me the real stuff!

Fast-forward to a trip to Paris, where I tested Yon-Ka's new Retinol-Like Bi-Serum, a line-smoothing, pore-tightening formula that launched in Europe at the end of February. It has absolutely zero retinol yet boasts all its benefits—and this is coming from a retinol-alt skeptic! I've been using it in place of my normal retinol serum since I brought it home (if that tells you anything about its efficacy), and now that it's officially available stateside, it's time to clue everyone in on the magic. Whether you're a retinol beginner, a long-standing loyalist, or someone who can't tolerate the ingredient to any degree, I suggest you keep scrolling.

The Formula

I repeat: This is not a retinol serum. (Retinol-averse individuals, don't be alarmed!) Rather, it's a skin-smoothing solution with retinol-like actives that deliver similar benefits to the vitamin A derivative without any of the cringey drawbacks (flaking, irritation, sun sensitivity, et al.). The two actives in question? Biomimetic microalgae sourced from the South of France and resin extract from mastic trees in Greece, both of which have been shown to have skin-rejuvenating effects.

The microalgae, for instance, target skin's fibroblasts and, remarkably, have a nearly identical chemical structure to retinoic acid (aka, what retinol eventually converts to in the skin). It's almost as if the microalgae are wearing a disguise, one that tricks your skin cells into recognizing them as retinoic acid. As a result, those skin cells kick-start turnover, collagen production, and all the other perks associated with traditional retinol. The mastic tree resin also targets your skin cell receptors, specifically the ones involved in maintaining retinoic acid. So while the microalgae are stimulating that process, the mastic tree is making sure those stores stay as strong as possible. Neat, no?

As you can tell, these two actives complement each other quite well—something Yon-Ka figured out after two years of combining different plant-derived compounds. To make it even stronger (and thus more comparable to traditional retinol), the brand decided to isolate the two actives into a bi-phase formula and spike it with gardenia extract (which gives it that berry tint) and pink pepper oil for extra antioxidant power. When you shake the bottle, you reactivate the serum each time and make those retinol-like compounds even more potent.

The Application

Let me just say that I'm not a face-oil devotee in the slightest. It takes a very special formula (read: lightweight and non-greasy) for me to even fathom keeping it in my routine, so I was admittedly a little hesitant to try the oil-serum at first—only to be absolutely blown away by the sensorial experience. Yon-Ka's Retinol-Like Bi-Serum has a featherlight, watery consistency that doesn't feel like an oil whatsoever, despite having that oily phase. It absorbs instantly, even if you apply more than the recommended six to eight drops, and dries down to a beautiful velvety finish—no greasy residue whatsoever.

Most oil-serums I've tried really emphasize the glow, which is fine, but I much prefer the light, almost powdery dry-down of this serum. It's lightweight enough to layer underneath a dense moisturizer in the winter and hydrating enough to use on its own during the warmer, sweatier months. (And because there's no actual retinol in the formula, you don't have to worry about photosensitivity. Major win!)

Something to flag for any scent-sensitive folks out there: This Bi-Serum is naturally fragranced. I usually prefer fragrance-free formulas for my facial skincare, but the aroma here isn't overly flora, despite its INCI list of 99.8% natural ingredients. It's light and fresh with just a hint of spice thanks to that gardenia extract and pink pepper oil, and it disappears within a few minutes of finishing my skincare routine. I actually find myself looking forward to that grounding scent each time I step up to the sink; it functions as an intentional moment of pause before starting or ending my day.

My Results

Okay, but does the retinol-like serum actually work? I swapped it in for my regular retinol serum for 32 days and can confidently say that my complexion appears brighter, tighter, and more balanced. As I mentioned up top, my skin does well with constant, slow turnover; whenever I stop, I'm immediately met with breakouts and dull, flaky skin.

Lo and behold, I didn't experience any of those woes since adding this Bi-Serum to my routine, which tells me that the formula is, indeed, a 1:1 swap to my beloved retinol. What's more, because it's so gentle, I don't have to worry about overusing it or sticking to a nighttime-only routine. The brand recommends applying twice daily for best results, and after about a month, I'm already starting to see those effects. My pesky forehead lines have softened (something you can see in real time from the application photo below), and my overall tone is even and clear.

Will I ever go back to my traditional retinol? Honestly, I'm not sure! My skin typically tolerates retinol well, so I'm not someone specifically looking for a sensitive-skin alternative. That said, I've found it works just as well as—if not better than—other OTC retinaldehyde-infused formulas I've tried, and it doesn't come with any complications (sun sensitivity, ingredients to avoid, etc.).

For the time being, you can catch me using it all throughout spring and summer without a second thought about sun sensitivity. Don't get it twisted, though: Sunscreen still remains paramount. It's a good thing I picked up a few staples at the French pharmacy…

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