Dull Skin? This French Face Mask Works Better Than an Oxygen Facial—My Photos Are Proof
"OMG, your skin."
At the risk of stating the obvious, oxygen is fundamental for healthy, glowing skin. I'm sure you know that your entire body needs oxygen to, you know, live, but if we zoom into just skincare, oxygen supports cellular renewal, collagen production, and hydration (all of which effectively translates to a plump, energized, radiant complexion). Oxygen normally gets shuffled to skin cells via blood circulation, where it can perform said duties, but sometimes skin needs a little nudge to get the process going, especially when factors like pollution, oxidative stress, and aging are thrown into the mix. That's where oxygen facials come into play to deliver concentrated molecules straight into the pores to boost skin cell regeneration. The glow is real, and it's pretty freaking immediate (perfect for pre-event prep).
But legendary French beauty brand Biologique Recherche (known for its cult-famous P50 toner) has a different approach. Instead of adding oxygen to the surface, its newly reformulated VIP O2 line helps skin make better use of the molecules it already has—like an at-home oxygen facial, one that lasts way longer than the usual 48-hour stint. I would know, as I've been using the updated line for 36 days, and my skin has never looked more vibrant. Step aside, P50—VIP O2 is the collection I officially refuse to shut up about.
What Is the Biologique Recherche VIP O2 Range?
Originally launched in 1998, the VIP O2 line targets mitochondria (the powerhouse of the cell, if you remember from biology class), where oxygen is transformed into energy. "When mitochondria malfunction, cellular activity as a whole becomes disrupted. Energy production drops, biological signals are deregulated, and metabolism becomes less efficient. Clinically, this appears as dull, uneven skin with irregular texture, reduced radiance, and diminished hydration," Hélène Huguet, PhD, the brand's global VP of research and development, explains in a Q&A.
So how do you enhance mitochondrial function with skincare? One word: melatonin. Stay with me here. While famous as the sleepy-time hormone, melatonin is naturally present in your skin, known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory powers. "Beyond these protective effects, melatonin also plays a key role in mitochondrial regulation," Huguet shares, noting that it helps mitochondria utilize more oxygen. In other words, it literally energizes the cells.
That's why the new VIP O2 range relies on a patented complex of melatonin, plus two other bioactives to help enhance its effects, in each of the four products: Lait VIP O2, a lightweight cleansing milk; Masque VIP O2, a whip-thick moisturizing mask; Crème Contour des Yeux VIP O2, a brightening eye cream; and Crème VIP O2, a silky, fluid-like moisturizer.
How I Use the Collection
The cleanser is pretty self-explanatory: Just massage two pumps onto dry skin to dissolve stubborn makeup and sunscreen. Then rinse with cool water for a clear, even canvas. The mask, however, is where the real magic happens (IMO). The gentle, kaolin-based formula has zero exfoliants, yet it somehow makes my skin look as if I just had a light enzyme peel—so bright and dewy. (That's the cellular oxygenation at work, folks!)
Post-cleansing, I cover my face and neck with a generous layer, then wait 15 minutes or so before rinsing with a soft muslin cloth and cool water. (Pro tip: Biologique Recherche products require no steam or heat since the formulas themselves are active enough to stimulate blood circulation.) I follow up with a tap of eye cream, then lock in all the moisture with lightweight emulsion cream. And that's it—well, aside from sunscreen, which I apply once everything has a chance to dry down. No special brightening serums or ampoules, yet my complexion has a dewy, halo effect that has had multiple people asking if I just received an Aquagold treatment (aka, superficial microneedling that simultaneously stamps your face with micro-Botox). Yes, really.
I was lucky enough to also experience the brand's VIP O2 Booster, a treatment that enhances the mask's oxygenating effects and is currently only available in professional settings. It has a foamy, bubbly consistency that actually crackles upon application (like Pop Rocks), but it doesn't feel spicy at all—just a slight warming sensation as the treatment comes into contact with the skin.
Post-facial, my skin looked like glass for multiple days; a fellow beauty editor even begged to know what I was currently testing—that's when you know you have something good! Once the Booster does become available to consumers, you better believe I'll be stocking up ASAP.
My Experience and Results
I'll admit the range is a little unassuming at first glance. I thought there was no way a milky cleanser, dense moisturizing mask, and hydrating face cream would be the answer to all my skin woes, but here I am with the most even-toned complexion I've had in my entire life. Once I dove into the science, however, I could see how that melatonin MVP works hard at the cellular level to "wake up" my skin from its tired, lackluster state.
I've always struggled with a dull, sallow complexion (made even worse by stress, harsh weather, and lack of sleep), but super-potent brightening serums tend to leave me beet red. I can't use vitamin C—I break out every time, no matter the form—so I'm always on the hunt for alternatives that offer similar benefits, and I'm happy to report that the VIP O2 range gives me all the radiance (plus juicy, plump hydration) with none of the drawbacks.
I've been using the range for 36 days, and as I mentioned up top, people can't stop commenting on my skin's noticeable glow. I haven't worn a full face of makeup in weeks, yet my cheekbones gleam in the light as if I tapped on a creamy highlighter. I often find myself dashing out the door without a stitch of glam, save for a bold lip moment, which you can see in the photo above. Megawatt skin, zero concealer, and a punchy red lip—very French, and thus very aligned with Biologique Recherche.
Shop the Routine
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Jamie Schneider is Who What Wear’s senior beauty editor based in New York City. With over seven years in the industry, she specializes in trend forecasting, covering everything from innovative fragrance launches to need-to-know makeup tutorials to celebrity profiles. She graduated from the University of Michigan with a B.A. in Organizational Studies and English before moving to NYC, and her work has appeared in MindBodyGreen, Coveteur, and more. When she’s not writing or testing the latest beauty finds, Jamie loves scouting vintage boutiques and reading thrillers, and she’s always down for a park picnic in Brooklyn.
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