I Wanted to Treat My Hollow Under Eyes Without Filler—These Derm-Approved Creams Work
It's one of the hardest aspects to treat, but these hardworking products help lift and support collagen production.
The beauty community has always been divided when it comes to the topic of eye cream. These little pots and tubes promise wonders after all, claiming to de-puff, as well as reduce dark circles and boost moisture. I too was skeptical, but after years of rigorous testing and bending the ear of many dermatologists, I've been sold on their merits for years. That is, with a caveat: not all eye creams are made alike. To get the most bang for your buck, you need to select the right one based on your concerns, and my biggest concern happens to be hollowness.
It's a tricky one to treat. As consultant dermatologist Dr Zainab Laftah tells me, hollowness under the eyes is usually down to a mix of genetics, bone structure and the natural ageing process, meaning there's only so much that topical creams can do. However, if you're not keen on more intensive measures, then the expert explains that there are a number of products that actually help stimulate collagen production and improve firmness and the overall look of your delicate under-eye area.
Ahead, a breakdown of what exactly causes under-eye hollowing and the very best products on the market to treat it.
What Causes Hollow Under Eyes?
As Dr Laftah explains, hollowing can be caused by a mix of ageing, genetics and your unique bone structure. "Some people are born with deeper-set eyes or facial features that naturally create a more noticeable under-eye hollow," she says.
Plus, as we age, the bone around the eye socket and upper cheek gradually remodels, while the fat that cushions the area can shrink or shift, and the supporting ligaments become looser. "At the same time, declining collagen and elastin levels cause the skin to become thinner and more lax," she adds. "Together, these changes reduce support beneath the eyes, making hollows and shadows more noticeable and the eye area appear darker or more tired."
How to Treat Hollow Under Eyes
The under-eye area has complex anatomy, so treatment depends on the cause and severity of the hollowness, and should be tailored to the individual. For suitable patients, Dr Laftah advises that hyaluronic acid dermal filler can be carefully placed to restore volume and provide greater support. "However, filler is not appropriate for everyone, particularly those with marked skin laxity, prominent under-eye bags or swelling, as it can sometimes make these concerns more noticeable." In certain cases, fat transfer or lower eyelid surgery (blepharoplasty) may be an option.
What to Look for in an Eye Cream
While products can improve the quality and appearance of the skin under the eyes, they cannot replace lost volume or correct the underlying bone, fat and ligament changes that cause hollowness, explains the expert.
That said, retinoids can stimulate collagen production and improve fine lines and skin texture, while vitamin C may help address signs of photo-damage. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen also helps prevent further UV-related collagen and elastin damage. Together, these ingredients can help the under-eye area look smoother and healthier—but opt for gentle, fragrance-free formulas, as the skin here is particularly sensitive. Plus, introduce active ingredients gradually to minimise irritation.
The Best Eye Creams for Hollow Under Eyes
- Best Overall Eye Cream: Medik8 Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye 3, £42
- Best Budget Eye Cream: L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Filler Renew Eye Cream, £24.99
- Best Brightening Eye Cream: iS Clinical GeneXC Firming Eye Gel, £120
- Best Eye Cream for Puffiness: Clarins Total Eye Lift, £53.60
- Best Lifting Eye Cream: Shiseido Vital Perfection Uplifting and Firming Eye Cream, £60
1. Medik8 Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye 3
Pros
- Gentle introduction to retinal
- Tackles a wide variety of concerns
- Very moisturising
- Available in different strengths
Cons
- It's not a budget option
I've never met a Medik8 product I haven't loved, and the Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye Cream is no exception. It contains retinal, glycerin, squalane and ceramides, all of which are essential for improving the appearance of under-eye areas—especially for those who have hollowing, as it can worsen the look of dark circles and accentuate puffiness. Plus, thanks to time-release technology, it's gentle enough for retinal newbies, yet clinically proven to soften crow's feet and expression lines. Hyaluronic acid filling spheres help combat dryness, dullness and dehydration, leaving the area looking plumped all day long.
2. Obagi Elastiderm Advanced Filler Concentrate
Pros
- Quick results
- Can be used all over the face
- Precision applicator
Cons
- Can run out quickly
This clever treatment was inspired by needle-based procedures, like filler and Botox, and is clinically proven to fill and soften lines and wrinkles starting from the first application. You don't need to limit it to the eye area; it's also designed to be used all over the face, including the forehead and around the lips, too. Maximum results are seen eight hours after you use it, and over time, I have seen an improvement in the quality and smoothness of the skin in this delicate area. Plus, the precision-tip applicator makes it easy to apply to the smaller contours of the face.
3. Augustinus Bader The Rich Eye Cream
Pros
- Comes with a cooling metal spoon for application
- Incredibly hydrating
- Luxurious feel
- Plumps fine lines effortlessly
Cons
- Very expensive
The key is in the name here: this eye cream by Augustinus Bader is incredibly rich and luxurious. Of course, it is on the luxury end, considering its price, but it is powered by TFC8—the brand's proprietary blend, backed by three decades of research and clinical study. The velvety formula is packed with peptides, amino acids and vitamins to help the skin regenerate. A perennial pennywort extract also protects against sun damage, as well as leaves the skin intensely hydrated and firmer-looking after just one use. It's the one to go to if moisture and fullness are your main aim.
4. iS Clinical GeneXC Firming Eye Gel
Pros
- Cooling metal tip applicator
- Brightening effect is quickly visible
- Great for darker under eyes
Cons
- Product can get stuck in tube
- Can sting
- Not for very sensitive eyes
One of the issues with hollowing under the eyes is that it can make the area look darker overall. This fast-acting gel helps combat that with a powerful blend of vitamin C and peptides, which are supported with low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid to plump and palmitoyl tripeptide-5 to support collagen production. It works very fast; my under-eyes looked brighter in just two weeks—but go easy if you have sensitive eyes; this can tingle and may not work for very sensitive skin. I found I had to build up my tolerance by using a small amount initially.
5. L'Oreal Paris Revitalift Filler Renew Eye Cream
Pros
- Curved applicator follows the trough
- Excellent price
- Deeply hydrating
- Helps the appearance of fine lines
- Has caffeine to reduce puffiness
Cons
- Lacks a little luxury when using it—but that's to be expected given the price
If you're looking for a hard-working eye cream on a budget, you can't go wrong here. This targets the tear trough specifically; L’Oréal's clinical studies found that this delicate area looked 10 per cent less hollow after sustained use. It also contains caffeine to help de-puff, while sodium hyaluronate, which is effective at holding water within the skin, leaves the area looking instantly fuller.
6. La Mer The Rejuvenating Eye Cream
Pros
- Impressive clinical tests
- Specifically targets the tear trough
- Deeply hydrating
Cons
- Very expensive
- Contains shea butter and silicones, which may not be for everyone
If you're willing to splurge, La Mer's RPC-6 complex contains bio-filling algae to “micro-plump” and smooth the orbital area. In its clinical tests, respondents found a nine per cent improvement in the appearance of the tear trough after 12 weeks, as well as a 13 per cent improvement in plumpness. I also noticed considerable lift after sustained use, and the thick, cushiony texture, infused with glycerin and silicones, left everything feeling so hydrated and cushioned.
7. Clarins Total Eye Lift
Pros
- Instant lifting effect
- Skin looks tighter
- Eyes look more open
- Good price point
Cons
- Contains shea butter, which may not be suitable for everyone
If you want to treat hollowness, you need an eye cream that helps with lift. This gel-cream promises results in just 60 seconds; the skin immediately looks tighter, and 80 per cent of women in Clarins' study said their eye contour looked visibly lifted and open. The ingredients are worth shouting about, too: there's the natural retinol alternative, organic harungana, as well as smoothing plant extracts like caffeine and cassia flower. They're all gentle enough for those with sensitive eyes, too.
8. Shiseido Vital Perfection Uplifting and Firming Eye Cream
Pros
- Excellent for eye bags and sagging
- Clever tool, which depuffs instantly
- Great all-rounder
Cons
- Retinol may be too strong for some skin types and more sensitive eyes
This velvety eye cream fulfils its uplifting claims thanks to the addition of retinol, alongside the brand's SafflowerRED technology, which is designed to target loss the laxity that comes with collagen loss. It's a great all-rounder, with caffeine, and plenty of hydrators, which also target sagging and eye bags, so if that's a concern, this is a great option. I also love the metal sculpting massage tool, which adds a cooling, sensorial touch.
9. La Prairie Skin Caviar Eye Lift
Pros
- Lightweight formula
- Jam packed with potent ingredients
- Near-instant results
Cons
- Incredibly expensive
If you truly want to push the boat out, La Prairie's Skin Caviar Eye Lift is a 360-degree approach to under-eye hollowness. It lifts, firms and leaves the area looking considerably fuller after application. This watery, lightweight formula is infused with caviar extract, peptides, lipids and marine DNA, while glycerin and sodium hyaluronate hydrate and plump. In clinical studies, the brand found that 77 per cent of women noticed a lifting effect after eight weeks. Of course, it's incredibly expensive, but if you prefer a lightweight formula packed with powerhouse ingredients and almost-instant results, this may be worth it.
How I Tested
Both the wider Who What Wear UK team and our beauty team have tested hundreds of eye creams between us. From more affordable products to luxury brands, we tested the gamut of price points and rated each one on how well it restored moisture, as well as how effective it was at delivering on promises of lift, de-puffing and reducing hyperpigmentation.
Why Trust Us
At Who What Wear UK, we know that beauty isn’t one-size-fits-all. Our editors have tested thousands of products, including skincare, makeup, hair and nails, over the years and work closely with trusted experts—dermatologists, make-up artists and leading industry insiders—to ensure every guide is well-researched, inclusive and relevant to you.
We focus on formulas that deliver, whether they’re affordable favourites or luxury investments. Our product selection is based on tangible results, ingredient know-how and what we’d truly recommend to a friend.
Nessa Humayun is an award-winning freelance beauty journalist and the former beauty editor of Marie Claire UK. With a decade of editorial experience across beauty, fashion and lifestyle, Nessa has written for publications including British Vogue, The Times, Cosmopolitan, Stylist, Dazed, The Independent and The London Standard.