I Want to Look Sculpted Without Obvious Makeup—Gracie Abrams's Makeup Artist Gave Me the Blueprint
"The power of subtle, near-undetectable tweaks."
The Lineup is a monthly series where we're giving you an inside peek at the beauty lineups of the most sought-after experts and tastemakers in the industry. Get ready for a behind-the-scenes look at all the can't-live-without products that make their worlds go 'round.
In the world of celebrity makeup, you'll typically find two types of artists: the ones who lean into capital-G glamour and avant-garde storytelling and the ones who embrace subtle, "less is more" tweaks that make their clients look like the best, most natural version of themselves. Emily Cheng is a proud member of the latter camp. Have you ever glanced at a red carpet photo of Gracie Abrams, Sarah Pidgeon, Jennie Kim, or Billie Eilish and thought, "How the hell do they look like that?" The long, practical answer is that they likely have a roster of A-list dermatologists on call, as well as a plethora of high-tech tools and skincare products to appear so effortlessly snatched. The short—but no less enviable—answer is that they have Cheng in their corner.
"I'm fascinated by the power of subtle, near-undetectable tweaks," the seasoned makeup artist tells Who What Wear. Beginning as a personal quest to master her own features ("[I] quickly realized how difficult it was to find a department-store artist who could get my eyes just right," she notes), Cheng's signature tweaks became an asset as she ventured from the Laura Mercier counter in Vancouver to the wedding industry, which taught her how to work under pressure and consider how a look will ultimately translate on camera. Eventually, she took the leap to L.A., where other highly photographed events (global press tours, award shows) started packing her schedule. "It's all about a shared vision that makes [a client] feel elevated and still completely like themselves," she says about her hallmark aesthetic. "Nothing is more satisfying than helping someone step into their look feeling ultimately confident."
Innate talent is ultimately the secret sauce, but we had to ask if Cheng has any tips to replicate her technique. "I have two," she declares. First, "prep your skin thoroughly." Second, carefully consider your contour, which can make or break your look. "Contour should be tailored to your face, so take time finding out how you would like makeup to complement your features rather than forcing a look," she explains. Luckily, Cheng shared her entire beauty routine with us, including the specific skincare items she loves for makeup prep and the game-changing formulas, including two contour products, she always keeps in her kit. Scroll ahead to make them yours and learn exactly how Cheng wields each for a soft, lived-in glow.
"I apply this serum before moisturizer for an allover dewiness, or if I want a softer glow, I'll mix it in with sunscreen. It instantly illuminates dull skin and preps for a radiant makeup application. With consistent use, you'll see an improvement with hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone. [It's] one of those products you can count on [for] every skin tone and type."
"After I pat in the serum, I use this moisturizer to do a small massage all over the face and down to the neck. I love how the ingredients help nourish and protect the face, yet it is light enough to create the perfect base for makeup."
"[Here's] a product I often recommend clients add to their evening routine. For myself, after I cleanse, I pat the serum into the skin and gently massage until fully absorbed. I wake up with the most moisturized and plump skin. Over time, I've noticed more firmness and less flakiness in areas where I'm usually prone to getting dry."
"After cleansing the face, I use the cold mode to de-puff the eyes and prep the eyebrows before I tweeze. I love not having to deal with the mess of water and ice. I have two in my kit so I can do both sides of the face at once. I have a personal one, and it's such an essential for me. I either use the icing function to de-puff or the warming function if I feel a blemish coming on."
"As the last step in my makeup application, I place it on the highest points of the face. It works on any skin tone and highlights without leaving a visible shimmer on the face, which I love. I've easily gone through a dozen of these—brings life right back to any makeup!"
"This product is the first thing I apply on every person. I apply a thick layer like a mask and remove it right before I start on lip color. It hydrates the lips but doesn't leave a greasy residue. The texture and light, minty flavor make it one of my most asked-for products."
"One of the easiest palettes for allover contour, it has the right amount of cool tone to mimic the natural contours of the face but not cool enough that it reads gray. Also, a little goes a long way. A must in sculpting."
"I absolutely love the versatility of this pencil. I use a brush to gently buff it as a contour around the lips and eyes. In a pinch, it works great for allover contour as well. This pencil also stays on well over time. I personally use it and find it in nearly every pocket of mine."
"I use this palette for nearly every makeup I do. The shadows are light enough for a no-makeup makeup look yet can hold their weight for heavier glam as well. It is a well-curated palette with colors to create a sculpted base on the eyes, no matter the look."
"One of my absolute favorite foundations that I can always rely on, it's hydrating, long-wear, and leaves the skin looking like skin. I use a brush for initial application and a sponge to gently blend out. Once buffed and blended, you cannot tell there is anything on. [It] never sits in pores, doesn't flake, and stays put!"
"I always come back to this liner! This long-wear eyeliner stays put but also allows me enough time to shape, blend, and buff."
"After contouring the lips, these two shades [Pillow Talk and Very Victoria] are often my starting point for neutral makeup. The matte formulation is comfortable to wear, even after many hours, and doesn't feel heavy or dry. Pressed into the lips, it mimics the natural textures and perfectly enhances for a healthy wash of color. I am always refilling these two colors in my kit."
"When I first used this on set, everyone was clamoring by my station to get a swatch because it was photographing so beautifully. It's incredibly versatile. I love using it as a base, tint, or even all over the body. This product gives a radiant 'glow from within' look without the glitter. It also has a really great shade range."
"This concealer is absolutely a staple in my kit. I use it to conceal under-eyes, redness, blemishes, and more. The formulation is creamy enough to blend easily, but once it sets, it stays on without creasing or flaking. Also, when doing touch-ups, it blends in well with what's already on. [It's] a great option if you're skipping foundation altogether, as it doesn't change the texture of your skin, so you can easily spot-conceal."
"My personal favorite. I use this day and night. I also have it in my kit for when I have a client that needs a deeper dose of moisture. The moisture penetrates the skin and immediately softens dry areas without leaving the skin feeling greasy or heavy. [It] makes for a smooth base for makeup application while ensuring the skin stays hydrated all day."
"My personal favorite mascara and the most used in my kit for those that don't mind a waterproof formula. Especially on new clients when I'm not sure how their lashes might behave, this formula ensures a fluffy lash that stays lifted all day. Nothing is worse than lashes falling straight after finishing an eye look."
