It's an Exciting Season for Jewelry—6 Designers Pushing the Conversation
It's the customary steps that define the ritual of getting dressed: undergarments first, then clothes, and jewelry (and other accessories) as the finishing touch. But sometimes, a piece of jewelry is so good that it demands to be the center of it all, asserting itself as the star rather than a supporting cast member. In direct contrast to the minimalist-jewelry wave that brought us dainty micro huggie earrings and barely-there chains is a pool of emerging designers that are thinking big with their pieces. Their creations feel like works of art worthy of museum exhibits rather than items to fancy up an outfit. The metal is chunkier, the stones more ornate, and the designs more 3D and noticeably in your face than the jewelry we've noticed in a while. It's also interesting to note that the names behind these bold designs are relatively fresh faces on the fashion scene, recently emerging within the past few years.
From botany-inspired earrings to amorphic statement rings, keep clicking below to discover six rising brands making jewelry more than an afterthought.
1. Hugo Kreit
Anytime you wear a piece from Hugo Kreit, people will be asking questions. It's not just that the pieces are astonishingly beautiful. They're also so complex you can't help but stare in fascination. Paris-based creative Hugo Kreit is the man and the name behind the eponymous jewelry line. Launching in 2020, Kreit intended for his work to be an exploration of the relationships between "the artificial and the organic, the precious and the mainstream, and the digital and the traditional craftsmanship." Evidence of nature's influence is particularly apparent in the naming of each piece—including the Alga Neck Rope, the Iris Ring, and the Oyster Ear Clips—where creations take on the names of plant and animal species. While Kreit focuses on different themes with each new collection, color and bold forms remain at the forefront.
Less in your face but a statement nonetheless is the jewelry label Faris. Unlike others on the list, Faris isn't as much of a new face in the jewelry game as the others. (Faris Du Graf founded it in 2012.) Still, its emphasis on artisanal craftsmanship and smaller-scale releases feels uniquely indie among a sea of mass-produced lines. Those who favor a modern edge will take to Faris's sleek metal-heavy designs. The brand does statement earrings especially well, and its rectangular Cecile Earrings coincide with the return of big '80s-inspired earrings.
3. Veneda Carter
Danish stylist Veneda Carter has worked with everyone from Jerry Lorenzo to Kim Kardashian (during her Yeezy years), so when she releases something, people pay attention. Carter's personal style is experimental with heavy elements of streetwear (her signature has become extremely baggy pants with oversize tees), as seen in her recent collaboration with Timberland. For her next project, Carter has taken to designing jewelry. The overarching theme? Tactile designs that resemble clay forms mound by hand—her signature necklaces look like little pebbles bound together. Although distinctive, each piece is wearable enough to be a part of a daily uniform. Famous figures like Megan Thee Stallion, Bad Bunny, and Dua Lipa have worn Carter's creations, so Veneda Carter is definitely on a roll.
4. Mudd Pearl
We've been noticing a shift from prim-and-proper Park Avenue pearls for a minute but have yet to see anything like Mudd Pearl. The brand was founded by model Yasmín Moon and creative consultant Mary Anderson, and in the two years since Mudd Pearl was founded, its funky jewelry has landed on the likes of cool girls like Hailey Bieber, Charli XCX, and Barbie Ferreira. Inspired by the "healing mechanics" of how pearls form from oysters, Mudd Pearl calls on the idea that "holding a pearl is like holding a physical manifestation of one's own resilience." Each piece is handmade, so no two are exactly the same, adding to the feeling of something that feels highly unique.
5. Louis Abel
While jewelry has the tendency to unite people of all style allegiances and affinities, it'd be accurate to bet that Louis Abel will be especially appealing to you if you like Khaite and The Row. The label, with its polished precious metal baubles and elegant designs, feels like an exercise in effortless sophistication. There are plenty of details that make Louis Abel unique, but nothing is so loud that it veers ostentation. For instance, its curvy wave design has become a signature motif. There's an easy elegance about the designs that perfectly complements staples like a polished blazer and tailored trousers, but of course, wearing them with jeans is always appropriate too.
Born in Valencia, Spain, Simuero was formed by duo Rocío Gallardo and Jorge Ros. The brand uses a made-to-order model, which means each piece is uniquely crafted in the moment. It does not produce seasonal collections nor keep stock like most jewelry brands. A big takeaway is its emphasis on fluid forms. From its glorious statement rings to its hammered-gold chokers, everything has an organic nature to it that looks distinct. Simuero also uses recycled materials such as brass and sterling silver, creating each piece by hand.