Julian Klausner's Dries Van Noten Debut Was a Treat

Two models photographed backstage at the Dries Van Noten F/W 25 show in Paris.

(Image credit: Courtesy of Dries Van Noten/Alex Dobe)

When Dries Van Noten announced he was retiring in June of last year, the fashion world was understandably both surprised and devastated. Through almost 40 years (and many ups and downs within the industry and the world) at the helm of his namesake brand, Van Noten never wavered in his pursuit of genuine authenticity and raw creativity. He drew up trends instead of following them and kept fashion feeling fun and experimental, collection after collection.

Fortunately for fans of the brand, Van Noten's successor comes from inside the business, having spent six years at the Belgian label learning from its founder. Julian Klausner was named its new creative director in December, and on Wednesday, in front of an intimate group of Paris Fashion Week attendees, he debuted his first collection. Hint: People liked it.

Changing Spaces

One of the biggest immediate contrasts between old Dries Van Noten and new Dries Van Noten was the look of its show venue. In the past, runway shows have taken place in raw, industrial spaces, where the clothes were the clear centerpieces in the room. Klausner, however, chose a much more lavish locale, welcoming his guests to the Palais Garnier, an opera house that opened in 1875 in the 9th arrondissement in Paris. The space is lavish inside and out, with large chandeliers lighting the runway and ornate paintings and architectural features everywhere the eye can see. "The collection was created with the venue in mind," Klausner wrote in a press release. "I imagined women passing through the opera, grabbing fabrics and objects, tying them with a shoelace while on a quest to find the answer to an unknown question. Behind the curtain, where creation and practice happen."

This photograph taken by a fish-eye lens shows the grand staircase of the Palais Garnier in Paris on December 9, 2024. Inaugurated on January 5, 1875 and classified as a historic monument, the Palais Garnier will celebrate its 150th anniversary, it houses part of the Paris Opera which presents ballets and lyrical works on stage.

Craft Remains Paramount

Craft and attention to detail have always been codes of the Dries Van Noten brand, and they're not leaving anytime soon. In a recent interview with I-D, Klausner told Steff Yotka that he, of course, wants to keep things, from the textures to the colors to the prints. "The craft … we've built amazing relationships with a lot of suppliers and craftsmen," he said. "That is what I want to continue working on." In the collection, this intention can be seen in the form of multicolored tassel-embellished garments that were no doubt sewn on by hand. Tops made only of string and mismatching beads were styled underneath tailored suits, while dresses covered in large paillettes required little in the way of accessories to appear complete.

A close up of a model's shoulder with a fringe top on backstage at the Dries Van Noten F/W 25 show in Paris.

A close up of a model's torso wearing a beaded top underneath a black blazer backstage at the Dries Van Noten F/W 25 show in Paris.

A close up of a model's torso wearing a fringe belt backstage at the Dries Van Noten F/W 25 show in Paris.

Round Toe's Renaissance

For years now, pointed-toe shoes have reigned supreme, leaving no room at the top for any other shape. Then, in 2024, we saw almond shapes ease their way in, followed by some square-toe options, and finally, full-on rounded toes. If you're not a fan, well, that's too bad, because the toe shape was all that was shown in Klausner's debut, and with the style growing more and more popular with all the top brands, it's time to face the music. Pointless toes are here to stay, and I for one, can't wait.

A close up of the round-toe shoes at Dries Van Noten's F/W 25 show.

Opulence! Opulence! Opulence!

Last September's shows marked the beginning of the end for quiet luxury, ushering in a new, opulent, and maximalist aesthetic that's set to define the second half of the 2020s. This Dries Van Noten collection only acted as further proof that our predictions about the future of loud luxury were spot on. Clashing jacquard prints, jewel tones, and exaggerated silhouettes, combined with the Palais Garnier show venue, made for a rich (and expensive) treat for the senses.

A model wearing an opulent green jacquard coat with a cap and round-toe heels while walking at the F/W 25 Dries Van Noten show during Paris Fashion Week.

A model wearing a beaded top with a sculptural skirt and round-toe heels while walking at the F/W 25 Dries Van Noten show during Paris Fashion Week.

A model wearing a funnel-neck jacquard coat, skinny trousers, and a scarf-like belt while walking at the F/W 25 Dries Van Noten show during Paris Fashion Week.

A model wearing a white fringe coat and dress while walking at the F/W 25 Dries Van Noten show during Paris Fashion Week.

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Eliza Huber is currently the Associate Editorial Director at Who What Wear. She joined the company in 2021 as a fashion editor after starting her career as a writer at Refinery29, where she worked for four years. During her time at WWW, she launched Go Sports, the publication's sports vertical, and published four (and counting) quarterly issues tied to the WNBA, Formula One, and more. She also created two franchises, Let's Get a Room and Ways to Wear; profiled Dakota Fanning, Diane Kruger, Katie Holmes, Gracie Abrams, and Sabrina Carpenter for WWW's monthly cover features; and reported on new seasonal trends, up-and-coming designers, and celebrity style.