Demna Is Out, Pierpaolo Is In—A New Era for Balenciaga Starts Now

Talk about a vibe shift.

A solo shot of Pierpaolo Piccioli.
(Image credit: Getty Images)

The game of musical chairs among creative directors isn't over just yet. The latest change stirring the fashion world is Pierpaolo Piccioli taking the creative director position at Balenciaga, following Demna's surprising departure to lead Gucci.

Piccioli, known for rejuvenating couture at Valentino with his poetic silhouettes and deep appreciation for craftsmanship, represents a significant shift from Demna's edgy, dystopian approach. While Balenciaga has defined itself over recent years with oversize streetwear and avant-garde pieces, Piccioli introduces a sense of understated beauty and deliberate elegance. Anticipate architectural tailoring, softened shapes, and a transition away from logo mania to designs that indicate luxury through technique rather than branding. Though his aesthetic may seem vastly different from Balenciaga's recent identity, Piccioli's understanding of form and silhouette resonates with the house's Cristóbal era.

Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino

(Image credit: ImaxTree)

Francesca Bellettini, Kering's Deputy CEO responsible for brand development, provided insight into her decision to appoint Piccioli as the creative head. "He is one of the most talented and celebrated designers of today," Bellettini said in a statement. "His mastery of Haute Couture, his creative voice, and his passion for savoir-faire made him the ideal choice for the House."

As for Piccioli's thoughts? "Balenciaga is what it is today thanks to all the people who have paved the way," he said in Monday's release. "In all its phases, while constantly evolving and changing, it has never lost track of the House’s aesthetic values. What I am receiving is a brand full of possibilities that is incredibly fascinating. I must first and foremost thank Demna; I’ve always admired his talent and vision. I couldn’t ask for a better passing of the torch."

One thing's clear: Piccioli's Balenciaga won't try to out-Demna Demna. Instead, it will focus on a more introspective, refined vision—an evolution that will redefine what "cool" looks like in 2025. The first Balenciaga collection under Pierpaolo Piccioli’s creative direction will be unveiled in October 2025.

The Best of Pierpaolo Piccioli's Valentino

Valentino F/W 24 runway.

Valentino F/W 24 Ready-to-Wear

(Image credit: ImaxTree)

Valentino Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023

Valentino F/W 23 Haute Couture

(Image credit: ImaxTree)

Valentino F/W 22 RTW

Valentino F/W 22 Ready-to-Wear

(Image credit: ImaxTree)

Haute CoutureSpring Summer 2022

Valentino S/S 22 Haute Couture

(Image credit: ImaxTree)

Valentino S/S 21 Haute Couture

Valentino S/S 21 Haute Couture

(Image credit: ImaxTree)

Valentino m S19

Valentino S/S 19 Menswear

(Image credit: ImaxTree)
Explore More:
Associate Fashion Editor

Nikki Chwatt is an associate fashion editor based in New York City. She joined Who What Wear in 2024 after writing fashion, beauty, and lifestyle content for WWD, Well+Good, Editorialist, and more. With a passion for personal style and the creativity that comes with it, one of Chwatt's goals is to help others understand that there is no such thing as a “good” or “bad” style; it’s just about putting an outfit together that makes you feel confident in yourself. When she's not writing, you can find her taking a Pilates class, reading a powerful romance novel, or exploring a new wellness spot in Manhattan.